Quick question –
Inlaws want an orange peel texture in a bathroom that is currently painted with gloss or semi-gloss paint. Can I texture directly over this paint? If not, what will I need to do to successfully texture this small area?
Thanks,
Ryan
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Good question. I'm interested in the answers.
blue
Nobody has any experience or knowledge? Anyone care to venture a "go/no go"?
sand / rough it up 1st..
texture away...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Look for Mooney, he would probably know the best answer.
good idea CAG...
Tim... what say you...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Well, when we get after somthing we need to know what tracks we are covering .
This case is a bathroom which will have hand prints, hair spray, etc. Nothing on the kitchen grease line .
The major deal will be covering the semi or gloss finish.
Tsp on the cleaning prep should do a bang up job .
Drywall joint compound has more binder in it than a latex primer meaning it will hold fine over gloss if thats the case but a coat of it needs to be rolled on solid like a paint and then orange peel after its dry. That would be the easiest and quickest. That way it will be mud backed to mud and wont holiday .
You could go to the trouble of priming it but unless its somthing like a kitchen I feel like the application would be lost unless that applicaton was used over the drywall mud to paint prime it . You could texture the walls and then use the primer saving the roll texture coat . Theres about 10 different ways to skin this cat but the first is the easiest and if somthing bleeds through youve still got primer in the arsenal unused as a great time to play as a trump card.
Tim
Memphest 2006
November 18th
so my glaze busting days are over...
cool...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Drywall joint compound has more binder in it than a latex primer...
That's really interesting. I didn't know that.
There are many primers out there that claim to stick to glossy surfaces, but I haven't found them to adhere as well as they ought to.
Why can't they just make a primer with at least as much binder as joint compound? Maybe it wouldn't cover very well, but it sure would be a lot easier to apply.
Or in a similar vein... are there binders that can be added to primer? (I mean, other than joint compound)
-Don
There are very good primers that are very expensive . I choose not to buy them in latex.
Oil primers are good if there are other problems as well. Oil will actually bond through mud surfaces to drywall. On applications that arent adhereing , oil primer can kill two birds with one stone . It can prime the surface and soak through to the drywall adhereing it all together.
Depends on the tracks we are trying to cover. Its over kill in this case unless the cleaning with TSP isnt sufficent . I believe its plenty.
Tim Memphest 2006
November 18th
Okay, the project will begin this evening. Plan of attack is:
Light sand with 100 grit paper
Clean walls
Prime with premium primer
Mask off room
Texture
Prime
Paint
Of course this will include proper drying times between steps. The bathroom is pretty small, maybe 4.5'x7', and I'm hoping that I have enough room to properly spray the texture on. I'll practice with nozzels/psi/texture consistency to get something that resembles orange peel. Anything that I missed? Any other last words of advice?
Thanks again for all the feedback. Ryan
as another sugestion...
Clean walls first
Light sand with 100 grit paper
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
We have had great succes by...1) Sand that sucker really well 2) Use a high quality primer 3) Texture 4) Prime and paint. You did say it was for the inlaws? If ya like do it well if ya don't....;-)
What grit sandpaper should I be using.
Would an 80 grit or 120 grit in a ROS work well or do I need a real coarse paper?
Edited 9/28/2006 6:02 pm ET by ThinKerf
80 to 120 depending on how hard the exsisting finish is...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
If I recall it might be paint over plaster. I just want to scuff things up enough to give the primer/texture something to adhere to, right?
that's all...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
almost like a lite wipe down with sandpaper...
bust the gloss but don't dig into it...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
A good scuff sanding just because you should always sand between coats of finish.
I would use a stain blocking primer sealer (i.e. Kilz or Bin) then texture away.
Terry
For the last 25 years I have been texturing over painted surfaces and have never had any problem. The only problem is that the texture dries much slower because there is paint on the back of the wet mud. I have put textures on by hand and machine without any problem.