Replies

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Sep 28, 2006 07:17pm | #1

   Good question. I'm interested in the answers.

   blue

    

1. 
   thinkerf | Sep 28, 2006 09:14pm | #2

   Nobody has any experience or knowledge?  Anyone care to venture a "go/no go"?

1. 
   IMERC | Sep 28, 2006 09:24pm | #3

   sand / rough it up 1st..

   texture away...

     

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

2. 
   CAGIV | Sep 28, 2006 09:28pm | #4

   Look for Mooney, he would probably know the best answer.

   

3. 
   IMERC | Sep 28, 2006 09:42pm | #5

   good idea CAG...

   Tim... what say you...

    

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

1. 
   Mooney | Sep 29, 2006 02:35am | #13

   Well, when we get after somthing we need to know what tracks we are covering .

   This case is a bathroom which will have hand prints, hair spray, etc. Nothing on the kitchen grease line .

   The major deal will be covering the semi or gloss finish.

   Tsp on the cleaning prep should do a bang up job .

   Drywall joint compound has more binder in it than a latex primer meaning it will hold fine over gloss if thats the case but a coat of it needs to be rolled on solid like a paint and then orange peel after its dry. That would be the easiest and quickest. That way it will be mud backed to mud and wont holiday .

   You could go to the trouble of priming it but unless its somthing like a kitchen I feel like the application would be lost unless that applicaton was used over the drywall mud to paint prime it . You could texture the walls and then use the primer saving the roll texture coat . Theres about 10 different ways to skin this cat but the first is the easiest and if somthing bleeds through youve still got primer in the arsenal unused as a great time to play as a trump card.

   Tim

    Memphest 2006

   November 18th

1. 
   IMERC | Sep 29, 2006 02:42am | #14

   so my glaze busting days are over...

   cool... 

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

2. 
   DonCanDo | Sep 29, 2006 05:09am | #16

   Drywall joint compound has more binder in it than a latex primer...

   That's really interesting.  I didn't know that.

   There are many primers out there that claim to stick to glossy surfaces, but I haven't found them to adhere as well as they ought to.

   Why can't they just make a primer with at least as much binder as joint compound?  Maybe it wouldn't cover very well, but it sure would be a lot easier to apply.

   Or in a similar vein... are there binders that can be added to primer?  (I mean, other than joint compound)

   -Don

1. 
   Mooney | Sep 29, 2006 05:27am | #17

   There are very good primers that are very expensive . I choose not to buy them in latex.

   Oil primers are good if there are other problems as well. Oil will actually bond through mud surfaces to drywall. On applications that arent adhereing , oil primer can kill two birds with one stone . It can prime the surface and soak through to the drywall adhereing it all together.

   Depends on the tracks we are trying to cover. Its over kill in this case unless the cleaning with TSP isnt sufficent . I believe its plenty.

   Tim Memphest 2006

   November 18th

1. 
   thinkerf | Sep 29, 2006 09:38pm | #18

   Okay, the project will begin this evening. Plan of attack is:

   Light sand with 100 grit paper

   Clean walls

   Prime with premium primer

   Mask off room

   Texture

   Prime

   Paint

   Of course this will include proper drying times between steps.  The bathroom is pretty small, maybe 4.5'x7', and I'm hoping that I have enough room to properly spray the texture on.  I'll practice with nozzels/psi/texture consistency to get something that resembles orange peel.  Anything that I missed?  Any other last words of advice?

    

   Thanks again for all the feedback.  Ryan

2. 
   IMERC | Sep 29, 2006 09:59pm | #19

   as another sugestion...

   Clean walls first

   Light sand with 100 grit paper

     

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

4. 
   bps | Sep 28, 2006 11:03pm | #6

   We have had great succes by...1) Sand that sucker really well 2) Use a high quality primer 3) Texture 4) Prime and paint. You did say it was for the inlaws? If ya like do it well if ya don't....;-)

1. 
   thinkerf | Sep 29, 2006 12:14am | #7

   What grit sandpaper should I be using. 

    

   Would an 80 grit or 120 grit  in a ROS work well or do I need a real coarse paper?

   Edited 9/28/2006 6:02 pm ET by ThinKerf

1. 
   IMERC | Sep 29, 2006 01:03am | #8

   80 to 120 depending on how hard the exsisting finish is... 

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

1. 
   thinkerf | Sep 29, 2006 01:13am | #9

   If I recall it might be paint over plaster.  I just want to scuff things up enough to give the primer/texture something to adhere to, right?

1. 
   IMERC | Sep 29, 2006 01:19am | #10

   that's all... 

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

2. 
   IMERC | Sep 29, 2006 01:21am | #11

   almost like a lite wipe down with sandpaper...

   bust the gloss but don't dig into it... 

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

5. 
   TLE | Sep 29, 2006 02:21am | #12

   A good scuff sanding just because you should always sand between coats of finish.

   I would use a stain blocking primer sealer (i.e. Kilz or Bin) then texture away.

   Terry

6. 
   gb93433 | Sep 29, 2006 04:24am | #15

   For the last 25 years I have been texturing over painted surfaces and have never had any problem. The only problem is that the texture dries much slower because there is paint on the back of the wet mud. I have put textures on by hand and machine without any problem.