Hey Folks-
Has anyone actually used the “Drill Doctor” bit sharpener, as info-advertised on many network and cable TV channels? I admit to being intrigued with this thing but I have a healthy skepticism for all things promoted in infomercials. I have more than my share of dull bits and I have as much success sharpening old bits with a jig and grinder as I do learning neurosurgery. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks and take care.
-Nealz
Replies
Crappy and pointless. A real sharpener (Darex or
tool grinder) is big money. A cheap sharpener
makes something pointy that won't cut. Complicated
contortions are necessary to do it right. A drill
doctor doesn't do that. Save your money. Buy
10% cobalt bits in the sizes you use. They stay sharp.
Buy a $10 chinese set to drill exotic holes and throw away
the bits when they break, which is every other hole.
I got several 100+ piece sets (letter, number, fraction)
for $10 each a couple years ago. A good set like that is
$200, but I rarely need a number 57 bit. Got a couple
really good standard fractional bits that I use frequently
and a couple sets of garbage that I use once in a blue moon.
I have owned and used a Drill Doctor for 5+ years. It works well on 3/16 and larger bits (even though it will go down to 1/8).It has a collet that grips the bit, then a cam that it follows as you twist the bit (it goes through complicated contortions). It hasn't worked for me sharpening masonry bits, I think its designed for the cheap chrome plated bits, not hammer drill bits. It's not a precise as a $500 sharpener, but way better than those guides used with bench grinders. Mine by the way was made by and bought from Darex, I have heard that the new ones are not.
I would rather be mountain biking.
I've had my Drill Doctor, made by Darex, for about five years. It works. I've found that it's not cost effective to sharpen small twist bits but those over 1/4-inch are worth the time. It takes a little practice to get the knack of using it but I think it's a good tool.
Save up all of your and your friends dull bits and find yourself a good bench grinder. You know the ones. Two wheels and a motor in the middle. 6" will do but 8" is better. Get or make an angle gauge and a cheap caliper that will read down to .005. Fiberglass reinforced plastic is fine. Have a small container of water handy. Arrange for a light to shine brightly on the wheels face.
Wear goggles. Have everything at hand. Turn on the grinder. Grab a dull drill bit. try one between 3/8" and 1/2" as they have something to look at and are easier to train on. Address the wheel. (The exact terminology used by the master machinist who taught me this.) Hello wheel. ( I still can't resist the urge.) With your right elbow locked at the hip try to match the OEM angle with the face of the wheel so that the left hand edge touches the wheel squarely and level. Support your right hand with your left. Hold with light pressure and then slowly rotate your wrist upward while lowering your hands. Your not twisting the bit your completing a semicircular motion. At the bottom of the stroke pull away from the wheel.
Dip your bit into water. Use light pressure but enough to keep the bit engaged with the wheel. If the bit gets hot to the touch give it a bath. If the bit changes color your using too much pressure or using too rough a wheel. Look at what you have after the first stroke. The surface trailing the edge must be tapered back so the edge strikes the material first. If it doesn't or the edge is not quite sharp try again on the same edge. Slowing the rate of rotation will give you more clearance behind the edge.
Once you have one edge sharp check the angle against your angle gauge. The particular angle is not very important. 18 degrees works well for most things but anything close will do. The general rule is that the harder the material your drilling the shallower the angle. If your way off change the angle by moving your entire body left or right. Concentrate on one edge of your twist drill. Once you can sharpen one edge by feel the other is easy.
OK. You have half of your bit done. Mostly. Spin the bit 180 degrees and do the same thing with the other side. Every few strokes check the angle with the gauge. Keep going until sharp. Both sides are now sharp but they are probably not equal. Unequal edges or angles will cause the bit to drill oblong triangular holes. With the proper grind you can actually drill square holes. A neat trick for another day.
Take your calipers and using the jaws compare the lengths of the cutting edges. Whichever is shortest rotate to the left side and grind gently. Check your angles once in a while. Your done when the edges and angles are equal and the edges are sharp.
The first bit might take a while and might be ground to a nub but keep trying. Once you grind a few to nothing and burn some you will develop a feel for the job. It took me a few hours of practice. I'm a slow learner so it will go more quickly for you. once you develop a feel you can get pretty close to perfect without the gauge and calipers and just use them for the final strokes.
The really small bits are done almost entirely by feel as you won't be able to see much. Just level the edge in you hand and stroke. A cheap jewelers loupe can help with the 1/8" and below bits.
Once learned bits can be sharpened or resharpened in little time. One a minute is not an unattainable rate depending on how picky you need to be. Being able to do this can in some situations make you a minor hero of a job site. Sharp bits are much easier and safer to work with. You can also save a substantial amount of money.
The cabinet installer came by the other day, I saw him stickin' a drill dit in something, he said it was a Drill Doctor. I poked one my dull bits in it, and the sucker worked...
4Lorn,
I commend you on your description of hand sharpenig a drill bit. I doubt I could have described it half as good with twice as many words. It is the same method I was taught 23 years ago in a machining class I took at Kent State. It is a great and easy way once you have got the knack.
Drilling wood is very forgiving for those who are learning this method. For drilling metal you must learn to be rather precise, making sure to keep the new point you create in the center of the bit.
Thanks for bringing back the memory of that class, I haven't thought about it in a while!
John
John Svenson, Builder, Remodeler, NE Ohio (Formerly posted as JRS)
Thank you Svenny. I didn't mean to write a manual but I still remember my instructor patiently guiding my efforts and encouraging me.
This is one of those skills that may take an hour or two to learn. But it will pay dividends for a lifetime. Frequently you can pick up discarded bits that are still good but dull. Contractors installing stainless steel seem to go through bits by the dozen. They just throw them out and use new ones. Sometimes expensive cobalt steel ones.
I must be real stupid.
When I read that someone has trouble sharpening bits by hand, I kinda take their word for it. There are certain tasks that I cannot do. drill sharpening by hand is one of those. Your discription while accurite and correct makes as much sense as shouting at the deaf. Given time and practice perhaps I could master your technique (which is the same as several machinist buddy's have shown me). To me it's not a matter of mastering a technique but to get drill bits to work properly.
I bought the drill docter because I have several drill bits which cost well over $175.00 ea. (don't ask). I can get those suckers dull in one or two days of work. then the work that it takes to shove those monsters into dried white oak will make young healthy studs sweat.
The drill docter solved that problem. when they get dull, I spend less than 5 min. with them and they are sharp. works as well as when they were new.
I can't help it. What kind of drill bits are you using that cost $175?? Are they super long ones or specialty bits for timber framing? You peaked my interest (another word for nosiness).
Also, I have the $75 drill doctor and it works great for me. Matt
Matt,
Yeh, special bits that I use in my timberframe. In order to make building inspectors happy, I use a 18 inch multi step bit that drills the pilot hole, the shank hole and countersinks the head and washer deep enough to put a "peg" in so it looks proper, all in one drill.
The clever thing about this is I can put holes in at an angle that would be impossible to counter bore otherwise. I had WF Fuller make the multi step drill bit, then I machined and welded Milwaukees hole cutting bit on.
I teaches a whole new meaning of the word hang on when that big Milwaukee hole hawg takes a bite into white oak. I keep seeing the cartoon charcter of me twirling around the drill, in my head when I start a new hole.
(next time I build a timber frame I'm gonna build it from green timbers rather then dry them first)
Bought a Drill Doctor last week. So far so good but, 5/32 or less fuggeddaboutit. Definate learning curve.
joe d
So Frenchy, what's got you in such a sh*tty mood. The guy gives a description of a sharpening method and you jump all over him like he just insulted your mother.
What's up with that? You angry just 'cause you can't master the technique? Does that mean that nobody else deserves to hear that method? You may be deaf, but there are plenty of others reading that can hear. Lighten up!John Svenson, Builder, Remodeler, NE Ohio (Formerly posted as JRS)
There used to be a saying, "If you invent something and don't have a use for it, call it a knife sharpener or drill bit sharpener." I've shied from the proliferation of both products and for 30 years have used my bench grinder to sharpen drill bits (having been taught to do so by the owner of a machine shop). The majority of the time the results were satisfactory, and occassionally excellent, but it was (is) difficult for me to attain exact same results on both cutting edges (most noticeable when drilling steel).
About a year ago I read a positive independent test about a product called Drill Doctor. I finally bought one and splurged on both chucks (so can sharpen up to 3/4" bits). To try it out, I sharpened about 50 bits (from 3/16" to 3/4") that had collected in my "dull" container. I rate the results excellent and the bits cut as good or better than new. My bits now require much less force to use and are very aggressive in their cutting. I'm finding the unit to be efficient use of my time as I pay about $3.50 for a decent 1/4" bit and hate the thought of treating them as throwaways (the minute or so that it takes to sharpen a 1/4" bit is well worth my time). If you're buying a handfull of bits for that price then the Drill Doctor will likely not be cost effective .
There is a learning curve and the directions must be read (several times for me) as there are a variety of settings (depending on type of bit). My first couple attempts at sharpening smaller masonry bits (Bosch and Milwaukee up to about 3/8") were unsatisfactory because I did not read directions and did not properly orient the bit in the chuck, nor did I watch the video that came with the unit. I should get some credit though for atleast not initially pitching the directions.
The process removes a small amount of metal at each twisting motion of the wrist on the chuck. This can be quite time consuming on the largest bits if the sharpening angle is far off - the result of sharpening by eye for too long. The diamond impregnated sharpening wheel is replaceable but I haven't yet had to do so.
Some thoughts.
Randy
Svenny,
Sorry, I didn't realize my crappy mood was coming across as such. Now rereading my post I was too harsh. Blame it on a twenty foot long timber falling on my foot (my fault of course) on roof panels not lining up (the winds fault) An oversite that had me doing a ten minute job that took 4 hours of me sweating so badly, that I had to keep wiping the sweat out of my eyes plus about a half dozen other pains-in- butt.
Naw, I can ruin bits by hand sharpening them with the best of them. I've mastered the art of not enough rake or too much rake, incorrect angle or off centered point. I used to watch an old machinist buddy of mine grab a dozen drill bits and with a few deft twists off his wrist hand sharpen drill bits to perfection with nothing more than a stone and knowing how. That, I can never master. Ruin them on a grinding wheel? Heck, That I've perfected
Hey! Maybe I'm still a little grumpy?
Frenchy, the tone of your post really caught me by surprise-that seemed out of character for you. I'll admit my response to it sounds a little harsh reading it today. Hope today was a better day for you!
John
John Svenson, Builder, Remodeler, NE Ohio (Formerly posted as JRS)
Drill Doctor makes several models, I used to own the $165 unit, I sent it back, wasn't worth the money, infact I could sharpen bits faster by hand. I will admit it did a nice job on larger bits but for 1/4 or smaller it was a waste of time.
Hey, thanks to all for your input, I appreciate every 'bit' of it (hyuck, hyuck). I never figger'd folks could get so passionate about drill bits. I'm passionate about 'em too but only when I'm cussin' out a really dull one.
I'd like to perfect my craft and hand-sharpen the dang things at the grinder, mostly for reasons of pride and ego truth be told, but the speed and ease of sharpening a bit in the middle of a job with this appliance has some appeal too. I'd rather spend my time mountain biking as well. Take care.
-Nealz
Dang, Nealz, I'd prefer to be riding my mtn. bike, too. Got a new Marzocchi to install this week. Where do ya ride?
I'm in Olympia, Wash. Some 50,000 acres and 300 mi. of trails in Capital State Forest 20 minutes out of town. Totally rocks.
Ken Hill
"I'm in Olympia, Wash. Some 50,000 acres and 300 mi. of trails in Capital State Forest 20 minutes out of town"
Ken-
Man, does that sound sweet. I'm about 40 miles outside Phoenix at the base of the Superstition Mountains, which right now, is pretty much like the back burner of Hell. I get out on the trails in the early mornings with the coyotes and snakes and manage to sneak in a moonlight night ride once in a while. Winter is the 'high season' around here.
Those Italians make some nice stuff. I'm riding on a air/oil White Bros. right now. It absorbs the rocks just dandy. Take care.
-Nealz
Hey Ken,
Got my Virago 1100 (not mtn bike...duh) from EBay and it rocks..looking to move to Sabastopol Calif from all my life here on the north shore of Long Island New York. At 51 I think a change is appropriate....jus' think of the hills and coast of Calif. and my new bike...
Be well
Namaste'
andyIt's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Hi, Andy!
Dude, I think you are in for a wonderful change of life. Calif is a great place to live if you can avoid the crowding and crazy people. Make sure you continue to keep us posted about what you're up to.
Take care pal,
Ken Hill
One thing that I did not mention about the Drill Dr. is that if you have a lot of meat to remove, rough sharpen it on a grinder or sander. The DD takes forever to remove much metal, but you do get a better finish because of that.
Would have responded earlier, but I spend all day mountain biking. Marzocchi rocks! I would rather be mountain biking.
Thanks Svenny,
yep, today kinda made up for the troubles over the weekend. Did two deals that were very profitable, got another on the way. Muscles seem to heal and the sore foot was solved by this evening. I figured out a way to correct the problems of this weekend.
I guess if you want to sharpen bits by hand I'm in a good enough mood to let you!
I've had a drill doctor for about a yaer now. It works great (as some of the others said) on larger bits. I took a few tries to get the hang of it but I can now sharpen a bit in a couple of minutes - as a former machinist, I can tell you that with years of practice on a grinding wheel you might get that good! I have had some luck sharpening smaller bits but it does take a steady hand and quite a bit more practise.
The real question is: is it worth the money? You can buy an awful lot of drill bits for the price of a drill doctor however, the first time you don't have to drop everything and drive to the hardware store for a new bit the drill doctor will pay for itself.