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the garage of my dreams…

| Posted in Construction Techniques on September 6, 2002 04:06am

Hello to all,

    I have the opportunity to construct the garage of my dreams, but the conceptual basic layout vexes my residential framing expertise.  How would one construct/frame a 25′ x 32′ gable-roofed, (gable on shorter dimension) two-car garage, with an 18′ single door, (therefore no partition between the garage-door openings-there goes that structural option) NO lally columns running down the centerline, without the liberal use of steel?  I am not opposed to it, I certainly would rather have a good I-beam with bolted laminations for nailing than a glulam carrying all that weight.  Not to mention steel is cheap around my area.  Oh, and by the way, I want to be able to walk above it.  So that led me to think towards no massive trusses to “gum up” the storage opportunities.  I can see the beam carrying all this down the centerline-if that was your  thinking, but how does it land over the garage door opening-another beam I imagine…Your thoughts???

 

Thanks much,

Hank

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  1. User avater
    Qtrmeg | Sep 06, 2002 05:31am | #1

    Go two doors, or put the beam in parallel to the doors. This isn't a big deal.

  2. Piffin | Sep 06, 2002 05:35am | #2

    Use open web trusses for the floor and stick frame the roof or use walk through roof trusses designed to provide for the floor live load.

    Excellence is its own reward!
  3. ANDYSZ2 | Sep 06, 2002 05:40am | #3

    I like using web joists  to cover that long a span , they are plenty strong and they give  you a place to run your utilities also give you a large nailing surface for decking and ceiling.

                       ANDYSZ2

  4. User avater
    BossHog | Sep 06, 2002 02:41pm | #4

    The "walk through" trusses Piffin mentioned are typically called "attic trusses". You can find some examples here:

    http://www.wsitruss.com/pb_trs03.asp

    They are quite common - any truss manufacturer should be able to make them. This particular company stocks the sizes shown, but most don't. The vast majority of trusses are custom made to order.

    .

    The "open web" trusses mentioned look basically like this:

    http://www.wsitruss.com/pb_trs04.asp

    They can clear span the distance and give you room for mechanicals, as ANDYSZ2 mentioned. Talk to a truss manufacturer about the specifics, and they can come up with something workable.

    .

    You'll probably need a pretty serious beam over your garage door, but it's doable. You'll have to find someone local to design the beam who's familiar with your codes and loading requirements.

    Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress.

    Does an angry bride make veiled threats?

  5. RPAdams | Sep 06, 2002 06:36pm | #5

    Hi Hank,

    I just finished checking this all out a few weeks ago.  First go with  the  tallest wall you can get away with...12' is really nice.  sandwich 3/16" plate between 2"x12" and use some plywood in the construction(sandwich) too.  There is less sag going this way instead if a I beam(8").  Also it is about a $100.00 cheaper.    If your gable is on the shorter dimension, make two beams and space them equally.  You can either hang the ceiling/ 2nd floor joists between the beams or set them on top of the beam(I would hang them) ,  deck the second story if you want or just deck it 2' in from the sides.  If you want to use that second story later, you could build a short wall and then set your rafters, using rafter ties across the peak.  If not run your plate and frame your roof. Also  you will have to run short joists between the rim joist and the first joist on your long dimension to carry you roof weight.  Hope this helps.  Randy 

    1. hankhunter | Sep 06, 2002 08:26pm | #6

      Thanks for the reply.  I'm afraid that I cannot visualize the layout from the way that you described it.  If I am reading you right...but how can a 2x12-flitched with steel or not-span the 25 feet?   Can I get more from you?

      Thanks

      Hank

      1. alanesmith | Sep 07, 2002 02:54pm | #7

        I'm building my garage w/ web trusses too, but it would sure be nice to be able to use a hoist somewhere - I hate those cheap portable ones, and the good ones are spendy!

      2. RPAdams | Sep 08, 2002 01:42am | #8

        The steel comes in 20' lengths...This will have to be welded to 25' or whatever your outside to outside measurement is and I would subtract an inch...just in case...rather have it a bit too short than too long.  Now that you have a piece of steel 25' long and 11" wide(might as well get the metal shop punch holes where you want the bolts to go...this will save you from drilling all those holes), get a 12' 2x12 and a 14 2x12, cut a foot off the 14 and lay it on the down(crown up), lay the steel on top of them, mark the holes, and drill the 2x12's. do it again with the next set of 2x12's only stagger the joint. Use carriage bolts, countersink holes on one side where the washer and nut will go. bolt it all together and I would nail plywood on the outside to further prevent sagging.  Then use this massive "header" either way I described before.  Hope this helps...Randy

  6. Brudoggie | Sep 08, 2002 01:45am | #9

    Check the Trus-Joist web site( sorry no link), you should be able to beam the 25' span midway with a parallam or multi ply micro-lam, and use a similiar beam for the door header. There are spec charts on the site, or contact a distributor, and they will spec it for you. Then you can hang TJI's or 2x12's, or web trusses for floor joists running the long span.Sheath the floor, to tie the structure. Then a raftered or parallel chord truss roof frame above, depending on insulation needs.Trusses may be better if you are worried about the lateral loads. Storage trusses are alright, but be sure what the use of the space is (loads). Wish I could build the same here right now! Never have enough space for storage. Good luck.

     Brudoggie

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