Morning All! Well, it took a good healthy ten (10) days and an internal ticket to kick the adjuster to getting me his Adjuster’s Summary. Having it now in hand, and with a couple of questions answered makes it more reasonable in moving forward. In considering what it costs to replace a roof, exclusion of any gutter work, interior damage resolution, etc. I am wondering what I should be thinking are ballpark Per Square costs for said roof. Mind you I am sure my roof has components of 9/12 and 10/12 pitches, on a two-story, and an idea of the roof’s style can be seen in the postage-stamp picture attachment. Looking at quotes for the same 3-tab 20-25 year shingle for which the claim is being quoted for and installed under the current building codes, I have to wonder if the quotes are in or out of said pricing ballpark defined here, and by the insurance company. The tear-off is 28.49 squares and install is 31.00 squares. Figure 29.75 squares average. The per square the insurance company is offering is $202.60 (before deductible and depreciation). On the other hand, I’ve gotten quotes on just the roof from three of five roofers thus far and they are all in the $235-278 range. If there is a low-baller quote remaining to come they must work for my insurance company. 🙂 Again, I am comparing real quotes for just the roof against the best ‘numbers game’ from the insurance company on a replacement cost policy. Based on this, an exact replacement will cost me a couple grand beyond the deductible and after the depreciation is recovered unless I consider not repairing the gutters and interiors. So, what are you roofers charging in your neck of the woods, and what are you homeowners paying? Really curious.
Replies
I can't imagine a skilled
I can't imagine a skilled roofing company bidding work in the $200 range .
Its all relative, no? I guess I am trying to figure out what roofers are getting, and homeowners of my ilk are paying for similar economic markets.
When dealing with an insurance scope you need to nit pick it like crazy.
Insurance companies pay extra for steep work (yours qualifies there). Make sure you get credit for a dumpster-$385.00 here.
Measure all the drip edge, that's another line item. Other line items include: soil stack flashings, vents, chimney flash (small medium or large) "B" vent flashings.
If two layers are coming off you get extra for the second layer. If code requires ice and water guard, you get an extra line item for that.
Every item has a value, and the insurance scope treats each item seperately-make sure they have everthing figured into yours!
Nuke,
I believe you live in GA, yes?? When things settle down a little bit I will post the numbers from my claim as well as share cost for replacement.
As a follow-up to my earlier post, here are the details;
Insuror paid 9,000 plus for full replacement, less recoverable depreciation and deductible, ACV for replacement was $6,770 +/- $10. Adjusters estimate with 12% waste factor was 34.7SQ .....roofing company 36SQ (18% waste) - close enough for government work. Contracted roof replacement cost, including new ridge vent(ridge shingles originally), ice&water shield at leading edge, new vent boots, new felt, was $7,200; $200/SQ installed. The original numbers that were verbally quoted and not agreed to were in the neighborhood of $250-$280/SQ.
Like you I too had some interior damage, I'll fix it soon, but not to the extent that you have described. I would recommend that you check everything on the adjusters estimate, get quotes for everything, etc. If something was missed or excluded now is the time to discuss it with the claims adjuster and/or your agent. I'm not sure how long you have had your policy but your agent surely enjoys his renewal commissions on a yearly basis.........just another angle...it's all about the money!!
Allstate treated me fairly and performed, for me, as expected. I wish you well!
BTW, I got a real lesson on recoverable depreciation and if you like....I can share.
NAW
*****UPDATE*****
Looking at an adjuster's estimate from my friend the line items already included the contractor overhead whereas on my insurance 'adjuster's estimate' that wasn't included until the very end (on page three).
That put my $/square at $246/square and in the ballpark of the estimates. Thank goodness I got a call from an internal employee that essentially did the job of the adjuster in terms of explaining it all. Terrific call.
I have now solicited all roofers I plan on soliciting. The blind mice game is upon me. The three with the most credentials on presentation were kept, I'll be calling their insurance companies today along with some references.
I may be able to eliminate one based solely on lack of BBB representation--the other two are accredited BBB members. I need to find something to differentiate between these last two. Bids are all within $100. All have top certifications through the Owens-Corning and or GAF.
Suggestions or advice on how to proceed next? What makes a good roofer?
I would not let the BBB status factor in to your decision. Anyone can join the BBB, AFAIK, and they don't seem to do anything to really protect the public from bad contractors.
I will admit to having somewhat of a poor taste in my mouth regarding the BBB. They started calling us years ago, always saying that specific people have been asking about us. While that may be true, every other time they call the script sounds exactly the same and I suspect they are not being 100% honest. I could be wrong though.
I would get references from past customers- I think that is the best qualification route.
Jon, what do you do if you get list of references from all bidders and those references all giving glowing reviews? That is my problem, or I should say 'was my problem'. I finally had to choose someone and it was literally a coin flip.
Yesterday I got a call from another person within my insurance company. Unlike the first adjuster, this adjuster asked me if I had received documents A, B, and C. Of course not. So, I went from a 1-page incomplete document a week after the adjustment, to a 3-page document at 10 days into the claim, to a 21-page document as of yesterday.
Between the documentation I now have and the telephone call on Thursday morning I think I am now finally on par with where I should be. I'm down to the last two roofers--haven eliminated the largest roof out of fear of getting lost in their system.
I think I'll be confident in my decision for Monday.
Nuke,
In talking with another fellow who lives in Alanta,Georgia, he said that metal drip edge is not always used in his neck of the woods. Is that right?
Bill
This is correct. I cannot remember if I ever seen a metal drip edge in the south. Kind of like sidewalks, they are MIA. The roofers I've spoken with do not install them by default, but will upon request.
Lowe's advertises $199.00 per
Lowe's advertises $199.00 per sq. installed for a SIMPLE 1 story roof. This includes 1 layer of tear-off, ice-sheet, drip and ridge edge, felt, shingles and debris removal. Of course, they won't commit without a contractor visit for a formal estimate. I am sure this does not include any valleys, dormers or cut-ins. As I plan to re-roof my house myself in the spring, I don't want to waste and independent contractors time just to confirm how much I'll save but here is a thought. Attic ventilation. I've read that light colored shingles and proper ventilation can reduce air conditioning cost by 30%. It looks like you have a ridge vent but what about eve vents to balance the system. FHA minimums require ventilation to be 1/300th of the attic, or ceiling for volume ceilings, sq. footage. If you have insect screening over the eve vents you have to double the area. For my house, the roof is about 27 squares and requires 10 sq ft. of screened eve vent. That comes out to a 2" slot of screened vent over 60 of the 75 foot of eves on my house. I live in a Western suburb of Chicago and my A/C really runs in the summertime. GA. is probably warmer and maybe your builders understand this better. So, since you are going to be doing a lot of work anyway it might be a good time to look at this. Good luck. Gary
Gary, I am not about to go through a big box store for a major repair. Besides, this isn't about price/money. My insurance is paying for it, minus the deductible, and as such price has been removed from the equation--and on their recommendation/advice.
I think at a minimum you should get AR shingles which puts you in the 25 yr catigory and really, 30 yr architectural would be more on par....
Remember, I am NOT a roofer. What are 'AR' shingles? If I guess, I would presume this are Architectural shingles(?), which I am also covering the cost on as an upgrade completely separate from what the insurance is paying for.
Nuke:
AR = Alge Resistant. IE - those ugly black streaks. Here in NC the problem is very common, however I have not had it on AR shingles.
That is the reason so many people use black shingles - because the black streaks don't show, however I feel black + heat = bad.
If you are already getting architectural shingles, they are very possibly AR.
Ok, yes these new shingles are of the AR type. Why would anyone waste money on not getting AR if they previously experienced it. :)