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The worst job on site

woodway | Posted in Construction Techniques on May 25, 2006 03:06am

Before I sell this house I’ve got to repair seven floor joists that are showing wood rot on the ends.

Let me splain (explain) my situation. Typical stem wall/crawlspace set up with PT mud sill. Where the floor joist, mud sill and rim joist(header joist) meet, the ends of the floor joists are rotten and need replacement. It’s only the lower corners and about 1 1/2 inches back from the end. The rim joists completely encloses the end of the joist so that none of the floor joist end would have been visible from the exterior during construction.

Here’s what I thought I would do to repair them: Cut a new floor joist about four feet in length, slip the new joist up onto the mud sill (after lifting old joist slightly with house jack) and sister the new joist onto the existing joist, nail the inside three feet of doubled joists together, cut off the rotten end of the old joist, remove all rotten old joist material then lower the jack to allow the new joist end to contact the mud sill.

I dread doing this since it’s at the far end of the house, there’s hardly any room to work because of the close proximity of plumbing and there’s only about 18 inches of crawl space at that location. Those of you that have done this in the past, what did you do to get this repair done and what are your thoughts regarding my preliminary plan.

The termite inspector has offered to do the work but his bid is a little high; however, the more I think about it the more I’m tempted to just let his subcontractor do it. All I really want from him is his stamp of approval so that the sale can proceed.

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  1. DanT | May 25, 2006 03:20am | #1

    "The termite inspector has offered to do the work but his bid is a little high;"

    I think that you think that his bid is a little high because you haven't seen mine for this type of job.  I don't know his number but I bet it is half of mine lol.  DanT

  2. davidmeiland | May 25, 2006 04:12am | #2

    If you can do it in a day, go for it. Check your gut at the door, crawl in there, and make it happen. At beer:30, get out of there and reward yourself with a steak dinner and some cold suds.

    If it's more than one day, forget it. Going back in the next morning will ruin your attitude.

    1. DonK | May 25, 2006 06:33am | #3

      Only 7 joists? I'm working on getting one where the living room and two bedrooms are sitting on nothing. Oh yeah, the foundation is shot underneath the nuthin' too. I'll do it the easy way - tear up the floors, jack up the exterior house walls, do what I need to do then put it back together. If I'm lucky, I can save the roof and some of the walls.

      I was going to say it might be easier to pull off the rim jist where you need to go, but you still need to get under there to do your sistering and jacking. So, what are you waiting for?

      Don K.

      EJG Homes     Renovations - New Construction - Rentals

       

  3. blue_eyed_devil | May 25, 2006 07:15am | #4

    I'd just cut the flooring out from up top and have an easy day of it.

    blue

     

  4. User avater
    zak | May 25, 2006 09:35am | #5

    David's right- A one day job of it won't be too bad.  Make sure you have everything you need- nails, glue, lumber, palm nailer or nail gun (if it fits), lots of light, etc.  Go to the bathroom ahead of time and have plenty to eat and drink.  Then get in there and do it. 

    You'll be so glad it's done it will  have been worth the trouble once you get out of there.

    zak

    "so it goes"

  5. Jer | May 25, 2006 01:45pm | #6

    What Blue said.

  6. Snowmon | May 25, 2006 07:44pm | #7

    "Here's what I thought I would do to repair them: Cut a new floor joist about four feet in length, slip the new joist up onto the mud sill (after lifting old joist slightly with house jack) and sister the new joist onto the existing joist, nail the inside three feet of doubled joists together, cut off the rotten end of the old joist, remove all rotten old joist material then lower the jack to allow the new joist end to contact the mud sill. "

    That splice does not sound very strong.  How much span and load on them?  You might want to run them even longer, and also use through bolts to tie them together.

     

  7. Ragnar17 | May 25, 2006 08:08pm | #8

    ...Typical stem wall/crawlspace set up with PT mud sill. Where the floor joist, mud sill and rim joist(header joist) meet, the ends of the floor joists are rotten and need replacement. It's only the lower corners and about 1 1/2 inches back from the end....

    How far do the joists lap onto the mudsill?  If you've got a 2x6 mudsill, You've probably got 4" of lap.  If only the last 1-1/2" of the joist is rotted, you've still got 2-1/2" of good bearing surface.

    From an engineering perspective, IF the rotted area is directly over the mudsill, the compromised joists do NOT require sistering, because that part of the joist is NOT in bending.  It is only under compressive loading.  Therefore, it would make sense that all you would have to do is nail in some blocking to the cheek of the bad joists -- call them "little sisters" -- at about 6" long each.  Their only function would be to take some of the compressive load off the bad joists.

    Of course, it sounds like this whole project is oriented towards complying with an inspection, so logical argument may be fruitless.  However, if conditions are as I understand it, I'd definitely try talking it over with the inspector because it could save you a lot of time.

     



    Edited 5/25/2006 1:09 pm ET by Ragnar17

    1. woodway | May 26, 2006 06:30am | #9

      Your assumption is 100% correct...I'm attempting to meet the termite guy's inspection. If I don't replace, he won't sign off and I can't sell house. I'm not in the mood to fight here I just want this house gone. I want a fond memory rather than todays reality!

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