Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Aug 30, 2009 07:31pm | #1

   check with a straightedge to see if the door itself is flat in the same plane. It is common for TT FG doors to warp in, often at top AND bottom, making it concave on th einside.

    

    

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2. 
   Matt | Aug 31, 2009 02:23pm | #2

   First let me say that installing an entry system that has a transom and sidelites is more difficult than just installing a regular door with no side/top lite.  Not sure exactly why, all the same concepts apply, I just know the trouble I have had with them.

   >> If you look at  jamb at the bottom of the door, it is flush with the inside of the jamb but as you go to the top the door comes in about 1/4 ". The upper part of the door has never sealed right. <<

   Could be a warped door panel, but it sounds more like it wasn't installed right in the first place.  Without going through all the steps to install a door correctly, I'm gonna go to the step I think you may have missed: After getting the door set in the opening plumb and setting margins I stand inside the house and open the door about 2".  Looking at an angle I want to see an equal gap of light coming through on the latch side from top to bottom between the door and the jamb.  When I say at an angle, in your case, you would have your head up against the inside casing molding just beside the latch side sidelite.  This is also one item that I check behind my guys when looking at a door install.

   In a situation like you describe, if all else fails, one little trick is to get some backer rod and push it behind the weather strip to make the WS stick out more and help the door seal.   A little clear silicone caulk on the backer rod will help it stay in place.  Backer rod is that foam spaghetti stuff that is used for packing the gap around windows and doors.  It comes in different sizes, like maybe 1/2", and 3/4" & 1" and they sell it at Lowes and HD with the rest of the weather strip (I think).

   A few weeks ago when punching a finished house that someone else built I had to adjust a door with a similar problem to what you describe with a sledge hammer, by putting a 2x4 block on the inside strike side casing and giving the jamb a few good whacks and then adding a few screws to help it stay put.  That was a first for me.  Not sure I'd recommend that for a door with sidelites though. 

   
   

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   Edited 8/31/2009 7:26 am ET by Matt

1. 
   Piffin | Aug 31, 2009 05:46pm | #3

   I'd think a poor installwould have showed up sooner since this has been in place for eight years 

    

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1. 
   Matt | Sep 01, 2009 12:33am | #5

   He said >> The upper part of the door has never sealed right. <<

1. 
   Piffin | Sep 01, 2009 01:37pm | #7

   AHA! 

    

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3. 
   migraine | Aug 31, 2009 07:58pm | #4

   I believe that you can buy a replacement seal that is slightly deeper./thicker/longer.  I am drawing a blank to the name of the stuff.  Call the local outfit that sell Thermatru.  They should know.

4. 
   Sbds | Sep 01, 2009 12:51am | #6

   I have a 60 year old wooden door that is warped the same way. I love the wood and don't want to replace it. So every Fall I take the weather stripping off and buy thicker stripping. One year I pulled off the stop molding and reset it. Then used a peel and stick weather stripping.