I’m buying a new compressor…Again.
After much research and advice, I bought a Thomas Renegade for my remodeling business less than two years ago. It leaked from the regulator out of the box. They replaced the reg. w/ another chincy one just like it. Then the pump switch began to leak (losing 2 pounds per min.) They replaced this. Twice. It still leaks. The reg. and the switch are garbage. The compressor is louder than I expected–or wanted. The recovery time was surely not what I was led to believe. The piston failed after less than 20 hours of use. Again, Thomas repaired the tool at their cost–and my LONG wait (5 weeks). This repair is less than 6 months old and…the thing has died again.
Needless to say, I’m through w/ Thomas. And I’m also done w/ oil-less compressors in general (one exception–my PC pancake is over 7 years old and still kicking, and NEVER loses a pound of air in weeks). So I’m buying a new comp. in the 2-3 HP range. I believe I’ve narrowed the search to the PC Job Boss (oil) http://www.mytoolstore.com/porcab/c3551.html ($375 delivered from Amazon). Or this Rol-Air http://www.mytoolstore.com/rolair/d2000hbp.html (same price). I like the wheels on both of these models. I like everything else as well.
Which one?
Replies
surprised with the bad experience from Thomas..
Rolair would be my next choice.
all the rental yards here use them...
Peace
that's unusual for a Thomas...
Rolair... 24 years...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I don't now about the old PC pancake comp but don't expect to get 7 years out of the ones now. I friend of my bought you for trim and he is on his second one in less than a year. They are light and easy to carry but I beleive some one else must make a better panake. I myself am done with oil lube. I have a dewalt and it trips its own breaker in the cold and leaks through the regulator. I have a small Makita oil less that is 7-8 years old and has done a lot of framing and roffing. I think I canget a good quality oil-less and not deal with the agravation of hard starting oil lube in the cold, unless some of you guys now of a good oil-lube that can start in the cold (0 degrees).
Yea, I know my experience w/ the Thomas--and the PC pancake, for that matter--is unusual. But it is what it is. I guess everyone sells out eventually. Even if I just happened to get a lemon, the new Thomas oil-less comps are overrated and over-priced in my opinion. The guy who repairs my comps and airtools recommended the PC Job Boss. He also told me the Thomas Renegade is (should be) a $200 compressor..that I paid $400 for. But I disagree. I have yet to even get my $200 worth with this pig...It's heavy, loud, and barely performs better than my old, cheap PC pancake. At twice the price, I expected more. So I'm in the market. If anyone has good (or bad) experiences w/ either the oil PC Job Boss or the Rol-Air I mentioned, please chime in..Or does anyone have another suggestion for professional grade, portable 2-3HP compressors in the $3-400 bracket? And dang it, it better last me at LEAST 7 years.
Rolair has always been better than good to me..Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Try synthetic compressor oil. I had the same problem in cold weatherwith my 17 yr old twin tank Emglo. It would trip breakers when it got down to 50 degrees, and you could never use an extension cord. It starts up at any temp now. I found the oil at a compressor dealer/repair place and its made by Amzoil, but Im sure there are other brands out there. It costs about 7 or 8 dollars a qt., but its cheaper than a new compressor, and mine takes less than half a qt to fill anyways. Ask the dealer about it, I havent had any problems with it and I have been using it for for a couple years now.
0w30 synthetic auto oil (Mobil1) or synthetic compressor oil would help hard cold starts.
I use Rol Air synthetic oil and it does not help. I have to flip the on/off switch back and forth about thirty times to get the motor warmed up. Otherwise it would never start on its own.
Try 0w30 from autoparts store. May help a bit.
I need to try something else it's a brand new rol air and it's as cold blooded as my old Ford truck was. :)
Maybe it's still tight, not broken in. What about some slick50? I'm not a believer, but never tried the stuff.
Anyway, Rol air synthetic is 10w if I'm right.
I have used it a few times so it's now right out of the box, I'll check the oil and see what weight it is. I never looked, it came with the compressor and I put it in. Kind of dumb now that I think about it.
BTW thanks for the link to the Rigid site I have to order a new cord for my worm drive now. My uncle Jim cut it in Tennessee.
Glad that worked out for you. Can you just put a long cord on the saw?
The stock cord it came with is 10 or 12 ft. it's the longest one I have seen come on a circular saw. Cut cords are pretty common with the blade left on the saw.
I don't get to cut them someone always beats me to it. :)
I ordered that rip fence from rigid and it was on my doorstep in 36 hrs. That was awesome.
I was sawing up some scrap with my old craftsman saw to put in my firepit and sawed the end off a 32 inch long prybar laying under some plywood. One wasted blade and prybar. It actually cut pretty clean, with nice big metal chips. Blade was too dull even for scrap after that. Put in a new blade, but the bladeguard sticks and I set it down on concrete, where it ground to a stop. Blade seems ok, but not so sharp anymore.
That old craftsman clunker keeps going, but she's getting pretty rough. I hate to use the good saws on crap though.
I have an old Milwaukee worm drive thats like that, I use it to cut concrete, shingles, fiber cement siding. Anything I don't want my good wormdrives ingesting. The sucker just won't die.
My trick is a 3 foot length of hose in the truck with the fittings a little loose lets the air leak out so if your not gunning nails like crazy the comp dosen't freeze up. As for a small comp I got 2 Hitachi Side stacks. There awesome and you can't kill em. Pumps made by Fini Biscout and all the Electrical Hitachi great compressors
you have straight 30WLife is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I think the synthetic rol air is 10w, the mineral is 30w.
I do? The bottle doesn't say what weight it is. Maybe I should drain it and put some synthetic 0W in it. Moble makes some good 0W.
What is the part number on the bottle?
I think it's OILSYN34 thats the only thing I can find on the bottle that resembles a part number.
Heres the bottle
View Image
View Image
It's synthetic 30w most likely. They dont say what it is. The 10w rolair mineral oil is OILCOMP10W34. It might work better in the cold.
Thanks alot Mark, you have a good tool consultant the last few weekends. I will try the thinner oil, I was about to throw the thing away, so I am willing to try anything at this point before it gets smashed. It was to aggravating begging the thing to turn on when I had work to do. I'll let you guys know if it works.
Try letting all the air out before starting it up in the morning too.
Then send it to me if you dont want it. I don't work when it's cold. :)
If this doesn't work it will be finding a new home. It can take up space somewhere else because its not being used here.
I'll come and get it...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I read back and got to thinking (don't laugh it could happen).
I got reminded up thread about releasing air in the tank, but the regulator does this on start up. It's that little hose looking thing that comes out of the elect/regulator thingy and goes to the tank. It has a little spring loaded looks almost like a wire connected air valve like in a tire tube. So perhaps that thingy is ? Fkd or tired or #2 perhaps the regulator is Fkd or tired, maybe it got sleepy coming from china or something like that.
If on the start cycle the regulator doesn't relief then the breaker is doing the correct thing.
And what roll-air model # is it the one that has a big motor with the double capacitor?
And from all this I get a bonus- I have a garage door opener that is doing similar when if the door is left up in this 2 degree stuff it has to be cycled to get it to close? maybe like 5 or 6 times. And its not a binding door and I don't want to keep upping the setting,Hmmm think think think thunk.
What brand garage door opener do you have? Have you checked the downforce setting on it? Does the light blink a number of times when you push the button and it won't go down? If so it might be a troublecode, check your owners manual for it. (If's its a newer model.)
The next time you get it to go down put your hand underneath it at waist height, if it immediatley stops without much pressure and reverses it needs more downforce. Not to much so it smashes someone underneath it but enough to get the door to close.
The opener is pushing against the torsion springs to get the door to close and it may need a little more pressure.
Sometimes shadows in the sensor eyes will make a door operate like that as well so check for something casting a shadow.
My compressor is same one on the link you provided, the green on in the corner. But it's orange.
I wish I could be different but I just am me-detail neurotic.
I have a ???? opener ah Gennie something I put up these 2 and they are the ? super fast asz or some thing, gal pal warmed up her car and just left so I did just give it a 1/4 turn to down pressure so should be good, but it's to fkn cold out there 8 to worry about much more for now cause I'm an old candy asz. In the day I be blowing out ski boots cause it was so cold but no more.
So back to the neurosis I started hunting around for aircompresser pressures switch's and such cause at one point I had replaced on on a little ch pancake. Then I started to remember and I have the info on a c3151 so I looked up my files and then it has a parts schematic that would make printed in China look good so I go to the web and running around and and and well I did get the G door adjusted.
So what I originally wanted to do was run the CH but Chang the set points but the original couldn't do it/limits were pre set cause I wanted that sucker to stay above 110 so I replaced it and fkd with it but now you just have to plug it in cause it has no shut off but the set points are good but when you come into the job the next day and hear this computer start you say hey dummi pull the fkn plug when you go home.
The missing contributer IMERC for my below brain freeze.
Also like up thread????? remember name remember name ug to much lead paint snacks said to dump the air so test a start with the tank empty. then if that works check the relief check valve, all you have to do is unscrew1/4" or 1/8" fitting. If you want I'll post the schematic but if you look at the little box it's where the small hose comes out of it. and plus i know you are also pretty clicky.
Edited 1/14/2007 4:30 pm by ClaysWorld
yup....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I emailed Rolair and asked for some help here...
let's see what happens...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Thanks I appreciate it, I guess I could have done that. Never thought about it.
I thought I bought another $300 lesson. Don't always trust your tool salesman, he doesn't use everything he sells.
no way on on the 300$ lesson...
Rolair is some good stuff...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Thats why I bought it, Rol Air makes good tools but I have barely used this one and it is still fighting me.
To reinterpret what I said ,only cause it's spacey out here in wonder land just kidding.
If you bypass the compressor over load breaker you will-make it run or blow a 20 amp circuit breaker at the panel or you'll burn up the motor. Cause that is what is causing the problem. My guess is that is how they insure that they don't have to warranter/replace burnt up motors.
So since it's taking up useless space laughing at you, don't get mad get even.
I know it's not nice to give tools that don't work personalities but. When they start (sealing)sp stealing my time and money it's personnel.
Edited 1/14/2007 12:42 pm by ClaysWorld
drop the oil viscosity and startup with the air tank drained...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Will do, thanks alot.
From a rollair site http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/d075hpv5lpd1500hpv5lpod1500hpv5lpd2000-similar-units-p-1003.html
(18) Check valve
If your unit will pump up, but then leaks out the valve on the pressure switch, then has a hard time restarting, replace this valve.
CK-NI:CTD1212-P1-SU3
$30.55
Yesterday I ws in the garage working on some tools and thought about the compressor, I checked the oil and it was a different color than the synthetic stuff I posted a picture of.
I drained the oil and put in the good stuff and it fired up, slowly but it started without kicking the breaker. My tool rep said he put the good oil in but he didn't. Looked like plain 30W came in the crank case.
I am going to fire it up again this morning to make sure it wasn't a fluke.
we've been running double diget minus temps...
I got my hands on a thermostativlly controlled heat tape for pipes and wrapped the crankcase with that... (4'er)
it worked very nicely... little slow on warm up at 1st (the heat tape)...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
THat might be a good idea, the compressor stays in the garage for the most part and I could leave it plugged in.
don't need to leave it plugged in (the heat tape)..
just remember it takes a bit of time fo the heat strip to take all that metal from -30 to +40... and I did use a small one...
I think a 6'er would be faster though...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
was the air tank full or near up to pressure?
how cold?
WTB you'll do a mention to yur tool rep....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I didn't realize it until after I had it started that the tank was about half full.
Temperature was around 10 degrees give or take a few.
I am going to mention this to him for sure, this really rubbed me the wrong way. I buy alot of tools and fasteners from him.
drain the air tank (you should be doing this after you run it anyways) and start under a non-load..
let it run a bit... close the drain valve...
at those temps you want t5o be careful of ice in the compressor / tank..Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I always drain the tanks on my compressors, this is the first time in a long time I haven't done it.
Does any one else have a pressure releif valve on the compressor head it self. I have a little twin tank Prime-Air, compressor and it has a valve I can compress on cold start to let it run with out building pressure. Nice feature I have not seen on other compressors.Garett
If I am thinking of the same thing then my rol-air has one
I am pretty sure my rigid does as well.
most of them do...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
heard back from Rolair yesterday... so I believe you will be hearing from them...
Marty, <!----><!----><!---->
I forwarded the link to my computer @ home and plan on registering sometime this week. I’ve got your email address & will keep you posted.<!----><!---->
Doug Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Cool thanks alot.
It would be nice to hear what they have to say about it.
thanks for the support IMERC. Please note that the compressor doc is now online & will answer as many questions as you boys can muster
thanks for showing...
now fill out yur profile so some of the bodies around here know who they're talking to...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
buy a 15' 14ga extension cord...
cut the female cap and install that..
cheaper and right now... generally a better cord too...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Good idea with a larger cord.
Mark, Just wondering where you got the information about using multi-grade autooil in a compressor? And 30w in the winter? And the Slick 50? Isnt that an oil additive thats about as thick as STP or pancake syrup? The synthetic compressor oil I am using is a straight 20w.
I'm known to do things that arent recommended and really should refrain from suggesting others do so.
Anyway, Rol Air specifies 10w non detergent oil (their own) for under 40 degree F operation. It is not synthetic, but I was under the impression it was.
Slik 50 is a thin oil additive that allegedly promotes easier starting in cars in winter due to it's "plating" the surface with a very slick lubricant. I have never used it.
Using the wrong oil may cause a problem, but flipping the compressor on and off until it starts up is no good either. So you risk burning the motor up, or ruining the pump as I see it. I thought the 0w-30 would be worth trying, but is highly detergent, and they specifically do not recommend using that product, so I am rethinking that.
I have 30w compressor oil in my garage compressor, but use an oilless hotdog mostly.
I dont remember saying that I switch the compressor on and off 30 times, until it warms up, that was Stilleto. That sounds like a good way to wear out the switch on a brand new compressor. If you have never used Slick 50...then why recommend it?
I meant that to stiletto. The slik 50 might work, might not. And I did not recommend 30wt for winter, I said 0w-30. That is like a 0w oil when it is cold, and is as thick as a 30w when it is hot. Being as it is detergent, that probably would be a bad idea to use.
I have an old lawnmower engine that I have used for 20 years. I run 10w40 detergent oil in it, it says non detergent only. It outlasted 2 decks. It still runs fine, but the deck is rusted through now.
I had a Vega once that I ran sae50 oil in even though that was not recommended. It had a bad engine that used oil so bad, it would only go 125 or so miles on sae30. It would go an additional 50 or 60 miles with sae50. It ran until I sold it to a kid who rolled it in a ditch.
I carry a hiar dryer in my tool trailer for drying tubs before caulking etc...
I also use it to pre-warm my compressor in cold environments...
drape a drop or a gatbage bage over the comp. and set the HD up so it warms the cylinder, run it for a few minutes and..
VIola !!!
instant start..
I'd much rather do this than have to send my comp. to an early grave...
starting, or trying to start when very cold, is IMO damaging to the motor if not the whole machine...Welcome to Breaktime
Home of
The Aristocrats
I'll give it a shot, I don't want to toss it. Diesel Pig will be along soon to call me a nancy for carrying a hair dryer in the truck.
ya, well he buys 400$ hammers and uses wormdrives for trim.
but he does buy and give away nice shirts!!!
Welcome to Breaktime
Home of
The Aristocrats
Free shirts? What did I miss?
BTW I use my worm drive for everything, like a surgeon with a scalpel.
were yoo at the fest??
ackshully my shirt cost 150$
but it came with a Panasonic combo driver...Welcome to Breaktime
Home of
The Aristocrats
No I didn't go to the fest.
$150 for a shirt? That guy got you good. :)
Now I see how he can afford 20 saws and 50 framing guns on one truck!
yeah but it's a NICE shirt!!!Welcome to Breaktime
Home of
The Aristocrats
How old is it? Maybe bad breaker/senser? Not what you production folks want. Bypass and let a bad heart kill the patient or maybe it's just a fluke(not the good ones).
Plus for as much stuff as you buy they should provide you with free demos. OK I was dreaming .
I buy alot of tools but free demos are a dream. I come here for field reports on tools I am thinking about buying. I have not been let down yet.
It is a 2 horse Rol Air pancake compressor that I have used maybe a dozen times and I don't think it's a fluke. Another contractor I do work for bought one and is having the same issues. I think the problem is a good salesman. :)
I tried to sell it in a garage sale for $75 (paid $300 for it) and nobody bought it, So it looks like I am stuck with it. Anyone want to trade for a dual tank Rigid?
Edited 1/14/2007 11:37 am ET by Stilletto
Not that it cures the cold starts but if you lift the pressure relief valve and hold it open until the compressor comes up to pressure it will help with cold starting. Just prevents the compressor from fighting the pressure when cold.
FIIW..I have owned probably a dozen compressors and have never seen one that uses a detergent oil, everyone of them spec'd non-detergent.
Don't want to insult any one with experience here but this is what I learned after a lot of cord repairs......Develop the habit of always bringing the saw cord around from your back instead of in front of you with worm drives and it cuts way down on cord damage..
By the time I remember to tell people about the cord they are telling me they cut it. :)
The problem with mine is just getting it to turn over, it will try to until it kicks the breaker. It has one built in to the side of the motor that is kicks when it decides it wants to go back to sleep. It's just cold blooded.
Stilleto
I had the same problem with my rolair, just cold blooded. Runs great in my dad's garage in the summer, and in the winter with the wood stove going.
I took it in for repairs, and the rol air service center said junk it, not worth fixing. I'm going to take it a company who specialty is electric motors and such. I am too cheap to throw away something that has 100 hours maybe.
Greg in Connecticut
Thats what mine does, summer is no problem. 40 degrees and lower is out of the question.
I am going to give it one more shot with the oil change, if it still doesn't work it's going to be finding a new home.
cold starting problems are due to the thickness of oil in the compressor. Try a winter-grade compressor oil, synthetic compressor oil, or open the drain valve so the compressor does not have to start under load when it's frozen.
Do you know why detergent oil is not recommended. I know there is no reason to use detergent oil in a compressor, but I am not sure why it is not recommended. The only reason I can figgure is that it may mix with the water that is in the cylinder.
Detergent oil is designed to 'clean' combustion by-products in gasoline engines. No combustion in compressors, just heat. ????
Be way cool if there was a real honest to goodness comp doctor.
don't believe you said that....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
lol
Make it a ROAR!!!!! and ya got a deal....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Detergent oil will foam @ higher operating temperatures and compressors run hot somewhere between 150 - 250 degrees above ambient even with proper ventilation. The foaming glazes the cylinder walls which leads to oil consumption. Even a non-detergent oil without specific air compressor additive ingredients (non-carboning features, anti-wear chemicals, and non-wear stuff) wreaks havoc to the proper operation of the valves and other control components downstream. That's why one should always use oil specifically blended for air compressor use.
I posted some pictures of the oil thats in it now, is that not synthetic compressor oil? It says it is.
View Image
It's definitely a full synthetic oil. It is mineral based and our oil rep explained that the base stock is comprised of molecules superior to or equal to the best molecule you could find in a bottle of parrifin or fossil contrived oil.
Interesting that they make no mention anywhere of the viscosity of the Rol air synthetic oil.
Is that the oil I should be using? Or is there a better alternative for cold Michigan winters?
you say a multi-vicosity..
the paper work says straight weight ND....
so what other choices are there...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
craftsman 3hp. w/15 gallon tank , oil . i just keep it in the truck and it has been doing great for 18 years. i change the oil every 6- months and use a 10-2 cable for power....
I have identical Rol-Aire 19 yrs old. The motor finally died yesterday. It ran 15 yrs without an intake filter - most hours powered by a generator.
purchased a new version to replace it same day. i'd already bought a " Bull" model as a 2nd comp. The new version has pump made in Italy. We'll see how they last.
I'm sold on Rol-Aire so far.
bad news of sorts sortta....
the Bull series is made from everywhere parts to hold the costs down...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
The Bull series.... Name says it all.
Yup!I went to a local store and they had a palette of Bulls...err brand new less than a month old Bulls going back for repair. I counted 8! The dealer said theay are the worst product he's ever seen.I got a shop warn NOS 2hp 4gal model from Italy and am real happy so far!Rol Air best yank their heads out of you know where and take a look at Festool as a model for providing the finest, at a price to be sure, but we are more than willing to pay more for quality....right???10saw
green and orange Rolairs are made in the US and they ROCK!!!!Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
It seems that many in this field like RolAir, I have always had good luck with Emglo, now owned by Dewalt.I have three, two Emglos from the old days and a Dewalt Emglo.All going strong after 15-20 years of intermittant use.
Generally most of the good quality small compressors, from RolAir, Emglo, Thomas, Hitachi,etc. have used pumps made in Italy.Now these companies, for reason far too familiar, are, on there less expensive models, using pumps and other parts made in China. These are the machines I hear, from dealers, have the most problems.
im a little biased but would go with the Rol-Air. I'll teach you how to get twenty years out of it.
Say more....
And welcome to BT.
I be a Quincy user researching RolAir and Thomas.
Tell me specifically the tasks you routinely require the compressor to perform. (nailers, sanders, painting, etc) I will need to know the model numbers of the tools used, how many tools you run, size and length of air hose or hard piping , standard breaker sizes @ your jobsites, and plans for future expansions if any.
can you tell me all you know pertaining to air hoses and sizes vs length???
I leave mine on the truck and run the line I need to get to where the work is...
can two compressors be run together in series???
didn't find that 7,5 in 408....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Properly sized air hose is the key to transferring pressure. Friction through the air hose causes a pressure drop which can be significant when operating anything larger than a hand-carry compressor. I would recommend 3/8" (up to 100') for any portable air compressor, even if 1/4" fittings are used. We're talking a difference of 40-50 PSI pressure drop between 3/8" and 1/4" air hose when running 100' when using a 5-10 CFM air compressor. Larger shop units like a 5 or 7-1/2 hp unit should use 1/2" -3/4" hose or piping in order to minimize pressure drops.
Regarding your question on running two units in series please note that the biggest obstacle will be getting both pressure switches synchronized to kick in at the same low end pressure setting. If you try to run both units off one pressure switch you'll have a wiring and plumbing nightmare. There are control panels available but expensive and not cost effective when applied to portable contractor style units. I would first try to dial in the pressure switches.
I was sucessful and all seems to be working well...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Series or Parallel?Series would be for getting higher pressure and would be difficult to do for several reasons. The 2nd compressor is not designed for that operation, it would be hard to plumb the inlet to the discharge of the 1st unit and the pressure switches are not setup for that range of operation either.Parallel is for getting more volumne..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I know..Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
For the Stilletto use with your preceding questions.
Eaaaaa like start? Not real tricky.
Thanks, Comp...I think I have already decided to go w/ the Rol-Air..
Now can you tell me why my Thomas was such a piece of crap? I can't figure it out.