Close to grout for 3×6 subway tile on walls and 1″ nominal mosaic tiles on floors with grout lines 1/16″. The gout will be white. What are your thoughts on the redi to use stain proof grouts? FHB liked Trafficmaster stain proof and a distributor mentioned Tec Invision Ready to Use. Or is it better to seal it myself?
Replies
Laticrete SpectraLok Pro is a fantastic product.
Jeff
Ditto
A La Carte Government funding... the real democracy.
Seal it yourself. I've heard of issues getting the haze off the tiles
the following day.
Follow the instructions and 2x cleanup (two washes) and you won't have a haze problem.
Even if you don't clean as well as you should at first, you don't get a haze, it's a gloss from the epoxy. Vinegar and a scrub sponge took it off even next day.BruceT
This is why SpectraLok Pro isn't usually the best grout for marble - you can't wash with vinegar.
Edited 7/27/2009 9:27 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
Loses gloss?
BruceT
Eats the marble (etches it).
Hello Pelipeth:
Thanks for the tips.
Mike
Hi housenut1,
Used Laticrete many times and never had a single problem. Will continue to use it. Concerning any hazing, I always wash well and use fresh clear water for the final wipe down.
Pedro the Mule - hazing's not a good thing, especially on mule fur
Hello Pedro:
Thanks for the tip.
Mike
Avoid the Trafficmaster. It's actually a water soluble product repackaged and resold as "grout". If it gets exposed to heavy water (like a shower floor), it'll reemulsify and get mushy.
Spectralok, which has been mentioned, is an epoxy derivative. Pretty much bulletproof.
If you used a portland cement based grout, you could seal it with Aquamix grout colorant, that stuff is also bulletproof.
Hello Mongo:
Thanks for the recommendations and the advice.
Mike
Ditto avoiding the TrafficMaster as per Mongo. It feels like you're grouting with a bucket of caulk - by the time it sets up enough to get nice joints, it's stuck to your tiles pretty well. You end up dragging a lot out of your joints by the time you get it all cleaned up. Then, it shrinks as it dries and develops cracks. I ended up having to grout everything twice, with it being twice as hard to do every time.
The only benefit I've theoretically heard about it (haven't tried it yet) is that you can apply another coat without completely scraping out the old, and supposedly on normal grout also.
After this experience I was unwilling to try the epoxy grout. Let me know how that turns out if you try it.
I think the only time I would even consider it is with white grout, like you're doing.
Jamie
I used C cure epoxy grout for these exact tiles in my bathroom and it was very easy to work with as long as you use the amount you have catalyzed in a timely manner (this depends on temperature).
It is getting difficult to find c cure locally as they were bought out by custom building products who seems to be more interested in pushing other grouts. I was able to buy the grout but had to order the catalyst in the proper color from somewhere far away from me (texas ??)
It is a two part epoxy grout. The color is in the part b catalyst, you clean it up with water and it is remarkably tough, adhesive and stain resistant.
I would use in again without hesitation.
I was very skeptical about the water clean up of a two part epoxy but it cleaned up effortlessly with sponges and water until it started to stiffen/cure.
If I could do it over again I would have set the 1" mosaic in the epoxy grout as a thinset and avoided a lot of hassle trying to keep excess thinset from squeezing up between the tiles. C cure is also used as an epoxy thinset.
Good luck,
Karl
I don't think that any of the RTU products actaully provide superior wear or stain resistance compared to portland based modified products.
I've used TEC Accucolor XT in showers and wouldn't hesitate to use it again.
Thanks for the tip and recommendation.
Mike