I have a friend building their first house. They are the GCs. The drywaller they hired got carried away and installed drywall in the master shower stall which is to be tiled. (Yes, they already paid the guy). Must the drywall be removed or can the green board be applied on top of it? Also have same problem in the great room. The ceiling is vaulted and they plan on having a very tall fireplace(20′). The stone mason told them the drywall must be removed since the weight of the stone will pull the drywall off. Do they have to remove the sdrywall or can the backerboard be placed over it? They are using stacked cultured stone.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story

An architect and a handy homeowner team up for an exterior upgrade with energy efficiency, comfort, and durability as part of the plan.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
What does the tilesetter think?
If it were me, I would remove the drywall in the shower, install cement backerboard, waterproof the surface of the board, and then tile. Others might use Kerdi over the drywall. What matters is what the tilesetter thinks. If he wants to tile directly over the drywall, fire him. Greenboard is no better than drywall, FYI.
really not that big of deal to tear off.
first in the shower stall you don't use greenboard,you need to be using a hardi board or cement board. i guess if it's a big deal to tear off and you have no clearance problems.go in with a layer of tar paper then hardi to prep for tile. if it was me i'd spend 20 minutes and rip it off instead.
as far as the fireplace,the stone guys right,time to tear off.
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T
MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE
DUCT TAPE.
Your shower valve may not trim out right with an extra 1/2 material.
I'd remove the dw.
shower valve?You mean I'm supposed to have it in place before the drywall?oops
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Let's not be blaming the drywaller for getting carried away. It is the GCs job to be sure that he understands what to do and what not to do, to have the cement bd on the shower or have it blocked out and labeled not for SR - same with backing for the chase. This is an amateur problem created by amatures, not by their sub.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Schluter's KERDI membrane will work with your existing sheetrock, but the drain assembly is proprietary and you might then have to spend time and money replacing that.
Best solution is to pull out all of the offending material and replace it to the sub's specs. The sheetrocker gets to keep his money though as it's the GC who should have caught this at several stages of the game, and prevented the sheetrocker from wasting his own time and materials.
Poor communication on the job site usually ends this way.
Shaughnn