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Tile backsplash prep on kitchen walls

jg | Posted in Construction Techniques on June 16, 2006 05:26am

Hey all-

Need some advice

I will soon be adding a tile backsplash to my kitchen. The countertop is granite.

Lol….right now the slight gap between countertop and wall is covered with a piece of shoe mould stained to match cabinets…..hey, it actually doesnt look that bad

Anyways, I have two questions.

1) I have a section of wall about 1-2′ out from an inside corner where the wall bows in. It happens to be bewteen the coutnertop and 24″ off the countertop. RIght where the tile will go.  What is the best way to float in this area? Build up with thinset?

2) For the rest of the walls which are painted, is there any special prep to the paint to get the thinset or mastic to adhere? OR, as long as the paint is clean should it be fine?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

Jason

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Replies

  1. jg | Jun 17, 2006 03:34pm | #1

    anyone?

    1. User avater
      BillHartmann | Jun 17, 2006 03:37pm | #2

      While no one has responded that knows what they are talking about I will through this in.I would float out the depressed area with durabond.Then use mastic to set the tiles.

      1. jg | Jun 17, 2006 05:54pm | #3

        Thanks Bill! No need to worry about the paint? Would lightly sanding the paint afford more adhesion?
        thanks for your time

        1. User avater
          BillHartmann | Jun 17, 2006 06:02pm | #4

          "No need to worry about the paint? Would lightly sanding the paint afford more adhesion?"That I don't know.But sanding can't hurt.

  2. BryanSayer | Jun 17, 2006 08:45pm | #5

    Since you are not getting many replies, maybe you should check out the tile forum at JohnBridge.

    I like tile backsplashes and counters, so I have a couple of suggestions in general.

    If you have cabinets above the backsplash, plan out whether you are going all the way to the bottom of the cabinets or not. If you are, is the space even, or will you have to make an un-level line look level?

    If you don't take the tile all the way to the cabinet, be sure that gap is painted first, as it is hard to paint later.

    You need a very flat surface. If you can, put a 1/4" sheet of hardi-backer up.

    If you get mastic on any surface that is not getting tiled, clean if off right away. Once cured, it is just about impossible to remove. YOu might want to put painters tape along the edge of where the tile goes.

    On the edge between the tile and the granite counter top, space the tile the width of the grout line you are using for the tile, but use color matched caulk rather than grout.

    1. jg | Jun 17, 2006 11:59pm | #6

      thanks bryan. I am planning on taking the tile all the way up to the wall cabinets. Not sure if adding 1/4" backer is feasable. Wouldnt the backer and tile create a gap at the top?
      As for the gap at the bottom, I was planning to use Tec color matched caulk. Good point about the mastic though. I will definately tape off. Thanks for the advice.

      1. BryanSayer | Jun 19, 2006 02:47am | #11

        Is there an area with no upper cabinets where the top gap would show? If all of the back splash goes to the bottom of the upper cabinet (except for a caulked gap) there shouldn't be any exposed top gap.If there is an area with no cabinets, then yes, you need to work out what to do with the top edge. There might be a trim tile piece you can use, or possibly trim out with wood to match the cabinets. A cap, like is used with wainscotting.

        1. jg | Jun 19, 2006 03:21pm | #12

          Thanks bryan,

           that makes sense

  3. CAGIV | Jun 18, 2006 12:34am | #7

    How big of a gap do you have?

    You would be fine to use mastic instead of thinset, like the other poster suggested leave a gap at the bottom and also at the top for caulk.

    The paint shouldn't give you any problems, it also wouldn't hurt to hit with some paper first though.

     

    Team Logo

    1. jg | Jun 19, 2006 03:28pm | #15

      Thanks to all that responded. As always, I appreciate everyones advice.

  4. User avater
    trout | Jun 18, 2006 05:08am | #8

    I no longer put tile on anything but concrete board or hardibacker. In kitchens it's always a hasle to get outlets centered in the pattern, or moved slightly, so the walls have to get opened up anyway, so it's not a terrible ordeal to install the hardi.  It also prevents problems such as yours.

    Basically, tile will last the life of the house if put on a good base and I just don't have faith in either how the sheetrock was installed, or how it will last.

    Having said that, if you want to keep the sheetrock, a 45 or 90 minute quickset drywall compound works well to fill the low spot. 

    Good tiling

  5. User avater
    JeffBuck | Jun 18, 2006 08:43am | #9

    it's a backsplash so I don't care if I work over drywall or backerboard.

    usually, I use mastic if it's over drywall.

     

    I won't count on mastic to fill voids though ... so chances are ... on this job ... I'd just use thinset over the drywall, painted or not. Painted and/or primed is better.

    I'm guessing the divot isn't that bad.

    Jeff

     

        Buck Construction

     Artistry In Carpentry

         Pittsburgh Pa

    1. jg | Jun 19, 2006 03:24pm | #14

      Jeff,

      Assuming I go the thinset route and not use drywall mud to build out the dip and not use mastic to adhere the tile, will there be any problem applying the multy layers of thinset to build out the area. Would it be better to apply in layers or all in one coat and then screed with a straight edge. I know using drywall mud, it would be better to do in layers, not so sure with thinset though

      1. User avater
        JeffBuck | Jun 19, 2006 07:49pm | #16

        either/or.

         

        I'd just use a bigger notched trowel for that section if I had to. That's why I said I'd just TSet. But I set lotsa tile ... I'm used to pushing and pulling it to get it to lay where I want.

        probably is easier to float the area first, let it set up/dry completely ... then tile.

        if there were the plan ... I'd open a bag of easy sand 15 or 45 and float it first.

         

        Jeff    Buck Construction

         Artistry In Carpentry

             Pittsburgh Pa

        1. jg | Jun 19, 2006 10:16pm | #17

          thanks jeff

  6. User avater
    Fonzie | Jun 19, 2006 12:28am | #10

    Jg,

    Assuming this is drywall or plaster we have successfully built such spots up using drywall mud (all-purpose) and "solid tape" (paper tape that is several strips side by side as if one sheet of paper.

    Keep your straitedge handy. Mark the extent of the "low". Solid tape inside this outline then check with the straitedge. Now move in farther away from the outline (as the straightedge indicates) and solid tape over this first layer, offsetting the paper tape seams (no need to wait until first layer is dry). We have built up 3/8 easily with no side effects. The paper provides a "reinforcement" to the mud.

    I have probably made it sound harder and more confusing than it is. It's easy to do don't worry.

    Fz

    1. jg | Jun 19, 2006 03:22pm | #13

      Thanks Fonzie, 3/8" is probably the extent of the bow in of the wall. I will give it a whirl

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