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tile gap under cabinets

nater | Posted in Construction Techniques on January 21, 2009 08:25am

Doing tiling on a kitchen backsplash, and using 1″x1″ tiles. Ends up that the gap between the countertop and uppers is 12-3/4″ give or take. I went off the countertop to leave enough gap for caulking, and appearance, so a full tile is at the bottom.

Now here is where my problem is, I have about a 1/2″ give or take at the top to deal with. I know the correct way would be to cut all the tiles, but cutting 100+ 1″ tiles isn’t my idea of fun. I’d put in quarter round, but with the cabinet case bottoms being inset, it would look bad.

Any ideas to make this look semi-pretty without a lot of time at a tile saw and trying to get little pieces of tile worked in? If I wanted to take a lot of time I could drop the cabinets down and redo the crown moulding, but I don’t really wanna touch that.

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  1. DanH | Jan 21, 2009 08:30pm | #1

    See if you can find a 1/2" horizontal accent strip. Place it in the tile about 4" up from the bottom.

    The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
  2. User avater
    BillHartmann | Jan 21, 2009 08:32pm | #2

    See if you can find some square tile that you can ripe or maybe rope or other boarder tile that is a similar color as the main tile.

    It does not need to be an exact match as it it is not normally seen. Just close enough that is does not stand out.

    For a wood filler strip that you paint. And install BELOW the cabinet in the slot.

    Or maybe get creative and change the layout with a 1.5, 2.5., 3.5", etc strip of decorative tile in the middle.

    Or maybe some kind of rope or other decorative tile at the bottom row.

    .
    William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
    1. wane | Jan 21, 2009 08:49pm | #3

      can you add 1X all round the bottom and put in under cab lighting?

  3. User avater
    EricPaulson | Jan 21, 2009 09:16pm | #4

    Your tile is probably mounted on mats. If not you could make the joints a bit larger. You would only need a smidge more on twelve courses of tile.

    Or cut the last course and be done with it. It's what seperates the boyz from da goilz.

     

    1. User avater
      JeffBuck | Jan 22, 2009 02:07am | #5

      helps to lay them on a scrap piece of not so hard 12x12 or so tiles.

      run the whole deal thru the wet saw.

      Jeff    Buck Construction

       Artistry In Carpentry

           Pittsburgh Pa

      1. User avater
        JeffBuck | Jan 22, 2009 02:08am | #6

        I've made wood jigs too.

        the dewalt cuts 18" ... U can cut lot of 1" tiles on an 18" jig!

        (right about 18 of them at a pass .... )

        Jeff    Buck Construction

         Artistry In Carpentry

             Pittsburgh Pa

      2. User avater
        EricPaulson | Jan 22, 2009 02:14am | #7

        One thing I don't care for on the Dewalt is the large gap on the table where the blade runs through.

        Been tinking of sticking a pieceof Lexan over it or something. 

        1. User avater
          jarhead2 | Jan 29, 2009 02:55am | #10

          One thing I don't care for on the Dewalt is the large gap on the table where the blade runs through.

          I purchased new zero clearance throat plates from woodcraft......

          One for my cutting blade and the other for my dado blade.

          Install the plate with the blade all the way down, turn the saw on, then run the blade up. There will be no more gap. 

           

           

           

          “Some people wonder all their lives if they've made a difference. The Marines don't have that problem.”                Reagan....

          Failure is the condiment that gives success its flavor. -Truman Capote

          1. User avater
            EricPaulson | Jan 29, 2009 02:57am | #11

            webe talkin about a wetsaw! 

          2. User avater
            jarhead2 | Jan 29, 2009 02:50pm | #12

            LOL, yeah, that wouldn't work too well....... 

             

             

             

            “Some people wonder all their lives if they've made a difference. The Marines don't have that problem.”                Reagan....

            Failure is the condiment that gives success its flavor. -Truman Capote

  4. Pelipeth | Jan 22, 2009 03:29am | #8

    How about a piece of back-band, store bought or fabricated, painted or stained to match the cabinets. Tacky(????????).

  5. User avater
    CapnMac | Jan 22, 2009 06:47am | #9

    Any ideas to make this look semi-pretty without a lot of time at a tile saw and trying to get little pieces of tile worked in?

    Well, I might go to the tile store and see if I could find a 1/2" wide trim or bead tile.  This could go at the top, or between one of the other tile courses (the locations of the electrical boxes usually being the defining issue).

    How flexible are the clients?  Sometimes, changing to a diagonal layout can help (well, still gazillions of cuts, but maybe fewer itty-bitty ones like you are looking at now).

    Edit to add:  Wow we are all thinking nearly alike on this, aren't we?

    Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)



    Edited 1/21/2009 10:58 pm by CapnMac

  6. User avater
    Jeff_Clarke | Jan 29, 2009 09:02pm | #13

    Don't know what the cabinets are but you could put a profile bottom molding on (like cope and bead) that extended down 1/2" and run matching wood (flat) across the back of the cabinets too.

    View Image

    Jeff

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