Replies

1. 
   Rich_ | Feb 11, 2002 09:23pm | #1

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   The truly most cost effective is to do it right the first time. Everything else is a false economy.

   This means getting rid of the formica if you want to tile. Even if you don't agree with me you should get rid of the formica first.

   It takes extra work and creates all the dust when you try to cut off the waterstop at the cap and somehow change out the radius at the backsplash that you should have just removed the entire countertop in the first place. And what about the sink? You planning on tiling over that metal band at the sink? (We call it a hootie ring in these parts)

   It's very easy to remove a formica countertop.

1. 
   splintergroupie_ | Feb 11, 2002 09:56pm | #2

   *Tom, i got tired of cleaning my navy blue Formica counters of waterspots, so i scored it all over with a saw and glued tile down. I had to replace the backsplash (mine wasn't integral to the countertop) because it wasn't the right height to tile over. Then i used a router with a slotting cutter to make some slots in the particle board base so i could use the same sink rim clips as before, but you might be able to get new clips to accomodate the increased depth of the tile if you're using a rim. If you have a sink that just sets on the countertop, so much the better, or buy a new one that does. Hopefully your supply and drain lines can accomodate the increased height.The tile stuck so well, if i had to do it again, i think i could forego kerfing the Formica and just rough it up well with a small grinder or very coarse grit on a sander. Or i might try a test piece with no prep at all except thorough cleaning.I did the job about ten years ago and all i ever have to do is recaulk the backspash seam every couple years.

1. 
   Pro-Dek | Feb 11, 2002 10:55pm | #3

   *Formica makes a great backer for tile. All you have to do is rough it up a little with 50 grit sand paper before you start your installation.The expensive part is the counter edge pieces and the new porceline sink to set on top. Then you'll want a new faucet.We enjoyed our Tile counter for years. On the third remodel we went with Corian because it is a softer surface and easier to clean.Rent a power wet wheel tile cutter. It will make the job alot easier.Most of all have fun and get that sink back in the hole ASAP so the wife won't yell at you.Bob

1. 
   ken_hill | Feb 11, 2002 11:01pm | #4

   *Tile countertops are a pain in the butt to keep clean, but if that's what you want...............Why not just install 1/4" tile backer over existing p'lam.?

1. 
   splintergroupie_ | Feb 11, 2002 11:16pm | #5

   *If i recall correctly, it had to do with the edge tiles and that the height was already close to perfect without adding anything. (Someday i'll tell you my true confession about using hollowcore doors for countertop substrate.) The only tile backer at that time in my town was the 1/2" cement/fiberglass panels and i've never liked using it, always thought it crumbled too easily around the fasteners.I went with tile bec i got it for almost nothing and i wanted to play with design, but after cleaning groutlines for years i won't be doing any more tile counters or tub surrounds unless i can use a mud-colored grout.

2. 
   Tom_Magda | Feb 12, 2002 03:17am | #6

   *Is it the groutlines that are hard to keep clean? Do the sealers work?Tom Magda's wife

3. 
   Rich_ | Feb 12, 2002 03:23am | #7

   *Tom's wife,the answer to your question is, "No". Don't worry about Ken, he's just one of those guys who never takes his boots off after working in the grease pit then complains about how hard it is to keep the floor clean.'Course I don't know Ken so no one get too bent, ok?

4. 
   Dick | Feb 12, 2002 03:55am | #8

   *I have tiles over formica in a tub enclosure, including ceiling. Put them in eight years ago using mastic rather than mortar and it's still tight as a drum. Use dark coloured grout and no worries about staining.

5. 
   ken_hill | Feb 12, 2002 04:15am | #9

   *Rich- Yes, you don't know me but I am very hard to offend- just here to learn and maybe offer some advice of my own, if I can help. And your post pointed out to me that, indeed, I was offering a PERSONAL opinion which may not always apply to others. Thanks...........The tile would be inconvenient for MY household, but if you're willing to maintain it, go for it. And yes, sealing the tile will help in keeping it from aquiring stains. Now, if you'll excuse me, got some more work to do in that tiled greasepit!

6. 
   splintergroupie_ | Feb 12, 2002 07:12am | #10

   *Wife: I had white background tiles with white grout and haven't found a sealer that really works to keep them really clean. When i get in a cleaning mood i go after the lines with one of the chlorinated powdered cleansers and a hard toothbrush--have i talked you out of it yet?If you want tile anyhow, consider one of the colored grouts--you can do some nice color combos with them, and anything other than white will be an improvement. The last tub surround i tiled i used black grout (with white and black tiles, looks pretty good!), but i may have been over-reacting.All the sealers i've used have a silicone base. I used a spray-on one that was a horror to get off the tub where the overspray made a sticky film. A foam brush gives you more control--slower, but the sealer ends up in the right place with a thicker coat. Once you do a round of grout-line-painting, you can go over it again for more protection.

7. 
   Brian_Smith | Feb 12, 2002 07:12am | #11

   *attach backerboard with adhesive and screw in place. i did it and it survived the '94 Northridge earthquake. the walls, doors, and windows around it did not.brian

8. 
   Tracer | Feb 12, 2002 05:07pm | #12

   *Good to hear of success stories about tile over Formica, because I'm planning to do this on a bathroom countertop.Here's a tip for sealing the grout lines that I discovered after chipping out and regrouting a bathroom shower. Pour a little sealer in a disposable cup and grab a handful of Q-Tips. Dip the Tip in the sealer and run down the grout line. It makes a nice straight line and avoids getting sealer on the tile.Each tip doesn't last too long, hence the reason for the handful.

9. 
   plantlust1 | Feb 12, 2002 05:23pm | #13

   *Use epoxy grout. It comes in different colors too. Biggest plus... no more silly sealer-that-doesn't-really-work-anyway. 2nd biggest plus...water doesn't soak thru and beads up until you towel it off or it evaporates.

10. 
    James_DuHamel | Feb 12, 2002 05:24pm | #14

    *Go to your local tile supplier and get a grout sealing kit. It has a squeeze bottle with a thin foam covered tip (3 different sized tips come in the kit). When you need to seal grout lines, find the tip that fits the grout line size, fill the bottle with sealer, install the tip, invert the bottle, and start sealing. You can literally seal a grout lines as fast as you can move the tip down the line. Just a thought and an easier solution...James DuHamel

11. 
    AndyL | Feb 16, 2002 10:19am | #15

    *I agree w/ suggestion to use epoxy grout, despite it being a hassle to install. In kitchens, watch for heavy exposure to sun, as epoxy grout will yellow with regular sun exposure.Keeping white grout joints clean does take regular effort, but a good sealer goes a long way to helping that. I prefer AquaMix gold. Cheap sealers are not terribly effective at slowing down staining. I have a kit like James mentioned, they sell the squeeze bottles at my local HD. Also, don't let the sealer dry on the tiles, it's a pain to get off. Other than that... don't let the area get too dirty and the joints can stay white forever. I've seen 50+ y/o white grout that looks brand new. However I won't comment on the mental state of the owner of that house :)Andy

2. 
   Tom_Magda | Feb 16, 2002 10:19am | #16

   *
   We currently have formica countertops in our kitchen and are looking for a cost effective way to upgrade. I was wondering if it would be acceptable to put ceramic tile over the formica or would it have to be removed first?

   Thanks in advance, Tom