I am trying to find a more perfect and efficient way to lay tile. I currently lay out the room by snapping chalk lines, make the necessary cuts, and then lay out the room. However, my crew sometimes has a hard time keeping the tiles straight. Any ideas? Also, what are your opinions on the use of hardibacker versus cement backerboard?
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Your technique is fine, although I snap lines square lines in the middle of the room, then layout the job, snapping actual grout lines, then do some repetitive cuts, then lay the tiles. Depending on the size of the room, it is a 2 or 3 man job. One man mixing small batches of thinset and spreading 4-8 square feet at a time, and laying tile; another making cuts. If you are having trouble keeping things straight, then I guess you need more lines. I like use the Superior Brand "A" Square which is a huge right triangle for extra lines, and a large supply of Sharpies. I will use a box for an average size bath. An aluminum straight edge (screed) along grout lines also helps me keep the lines straight.
I prefer Hardibacker over Wonderboard because it is slightly lighter and cuts a bit easier. Outside corners with Wonderboard can be a bit messy.
Regards,
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1927
Edited 6/13/2002 11:31:51 AM ET by Boris Yeltsin
I snap lines into a grid for the whole room, be it 22", 24" 30" square, depending on how the tile lays out with the grout joints. This works to a managable area to reach and work. Then I cut and dry lay the perimiter, leaving the pile of cut tiles right in each correct square. Then I mix up my thinset and set only the perimiter, leaving the field and a way outta the room for last.
Set 'em as fast as ya can spead the thinset.
Snapping lines are fine but I find that the "chalk" lines are a bit powdery so after I snap my two longest lines I then use a long straight edge and dark pencil over them to give me an even finer liner that is still visable when the thinset is over it....after I trowel it (under the notches). I too will use a long screed to make sure my tiles are square with each other and if they arent I push the tiles up tight to the screed on the first long row which I usually start in the center of the room. One long row down the center of the room then in the opposite direction from the center of that first laid row. With a criss cross starting from center I almost always end up dead on....working each quarter to the walls...USe a lot lof lines if need be....don't be proud.....be perfect. Also on floors I never use spacers.....I use a 10b nail.....Seems to be a perfect floor grout line and I always have 10's around.........course you could use 8's too. Hardback is easier to use but I love the intensity of Wonderboard.....even versus Durorock. Its slightly over kill but its much heavier...Pick up a board of WB then pick one up of DR. If you care about the strength on the floor (which I do) use WB IMHO. Also be sure to thinset it to the substrate below and use 1 1/2" roofers about every 8". I dont mess with the WB screws on floors as I don't think the cost and effort are worth it as long as youre thinsetting the WB to the substrate. Its a lot faster too. And doncha hate gettin those screw splinters in your fingers? ....ugh.
By the way have any of you tried useing a lazer level for floor lines? That really sound great and was wondering who's tried it and what the results were
Be well
Namaste'
Andy
It's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM