*
Hey Tile Guys:
Framing and straightening walls for floor to ceiling tile job. Walls are a tiny bit bowed and cupped. Not being the tile guy, how straight will this sub want it?
Choosing the right heating and cooling system means finding the best fit for your home's size, layout, and climate—and balancing trade-offs in efficiency, comfort, and cost.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial NowDig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.
Replies
*
I guess my question would be what is a tiny bit to you? 1/2", 1/4" or 1/8"? Also what size tile are you putting on the walls ?
Dave
*Bob, if you were following you, how straight would you want it?Since I follow myself in many cases I always appreciate a wall that doesn't require after-the-fact tweaking to get the finishing material to fit well and look good.Any finishing sub would kiss your feet and alway be happy to work for you or follow behind you if you make their work shine. Plus, if you were the customer, you would appreciate a job that did not entail a change order from the sub for having to redo a wall that should already be correct.Just a long-winded way of saying that if you have the opportunity, try to get it right from the beginning.
*If your getting paid to straighten the walls and floors, then perfect will be close enough for this job. There is a little fudge factor in tile work depending on size of tile, grout joint.....these are used when all other methods have been exhausted. Tile has a habit of highlighting poor substrates. Best of luck.
*The smaller the tile, the more out of square or out of level will show. Imagine a dark tile with a white grout or vica versa. On a 3" tile, the grout line closest to the wall is how the eye will judge square/level/plumb (depending on whether floor or wall tile). That means your two lines which ideally will be parallel (corner line and first grout line) will be less than or equal to 3" apart. Tolerances are pretty small here, and the eye will pick up non-parallel pretty fast. Make it a 12" tile and the lines might me as much as 10 or 12" apart. A little harder to see out of parallel. You have to pick the level of perfection you desire.Also, the closer to perfect, the easier on the tile guy and the quicker the job. If perfectly square, he can make all identical cuts. If out of square, each tile at an edge has to be individually measured and cut.
*what, nobody floats anymore?the float is what straightens, plumbs & squares
*Robert: No specific answers to your post, so I'll chime in.The Tile Council of America ("TCA") states that walls must be straight. Maximum variation of framing is 1/4" over 10 feet, which is quite a lot of variation. TCA A-48.4.1.1.I have an 8' level and check the plane on both verticle and horizontal planes over an 8' distance. You can also use a string line, which is easier than manhandling that long level. I shim out to this spec with strips of ripped 2x4's. The eye won't notice the 1/4" dip over 10 feet. You can also cheat a little bit more with the backer boards ("CBU"). I often put a thin piece of ripped 2x4 under the CBU to straighten up the wall.For floors, leveling plywood floors is hard because of the expanse. If the dip is concentrated in a specific area, then Self Leveling Compound or wood strips can be used. If the floor is wavey, then I'll just float the floor. I rarely if ever float walls.By the way the TCA Handbook and Specs are cheap, easy to read, and provide a lot of detail on framing for the tile subs. While I only do small tile jobs and sub out most of it, I use this Handbook and Specs monthly for framing purposes. The Specs have specific guidlines for framing, blocking, plywood subfloors, etc. I can not over emphasize the necessity of having this great source of information which will make your tile guy love you and make your customer happy. It can be ordered on the net athttp://www.tileusa.com/publication_main.htmGood Luck.
*Well my rule was: "If the most critical eye can see it in the finished job, it is too sloppy"
*
Hey Tile Guys:
Framing and straightening walls for floor to ceiling tile job. Walls are a tiny bit bowed and cupped. Not being the tile guy, how straight will this sub want it?