I have read Tom Meehan’s Installing a Leakproof Shower Pan. I think his method makes great sense. I am having problems locating an adjustable shower drain that will handle the necessary depth of more than 3 inches. Please help.
Sigi in Canada
I have read Tom Meehan’s Installing a Leakproof Shower Pan. I think his method makes great sense. I am having problems locating an adjustable shower drain that will handle the necessary depth of more than 3 inches. Please help.
Sigi in Canada
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Replies
If you haven't already put in the drain and preslope, you might try using one of the premade preslopes.....They're pretty straight-forward and user friendly....membrane lays on top of them and then do your tile mudbed.
The manufactured preslopes provide the 1/4" per foot slope, but zero out at the drain....keeps your drain elevation and your curb at reasonable levels.
just re-read your post.
I mud bed my own preslope ...
but pretty much what U say is how I do it.
What's this Tom fellow recommending?
I've read some of his stuff ... and have found lots to disagree with in most every article.
3" ... what the heck is he talking about now?
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
3" seems unusually tall to me, too. If nothing else, the curb is gonna be pretty tall on the outside.
I've always mudded my own preslopes, but I'm doing a shower at present using a manufactured preslope. It took about 30 minutes to set it up and add extentions...from there on, it's membrane and mud tile bed as per usual.
As to the height of the drain, my plumber uses a cast bronze drain and grate unit that does adjust up a lot higher than those ABS things, but I've never had to give one the "three inch test."
Boys, BOYS,
He's looking for a flange with 3" of threads.
When's the last time you measured one?
Min. 1" of mud at the drain, up to 1/2" or more for tile, plus the thickness of the drain flange.
So math tells me we're already over an 1 1/2", plus it needs to thread in right??
Me thinks we're a tad quick to the punch line sometimes.
EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
[email protected]
I had same problem, I just thought they needed some extra thickness at the drain, I would like 3 inches too.
I know what you are talking about. I just did a mud pan and the most I could get out of the drain tail piece was 1 3/4" plus my tile. I figured if I used expanded metal lathe embedded in the mud I would be OK to go thinner at the drain. Then I increased the thickness as it moved to the outside
I haven't read that ...
uh .. why do ya need to unthread it to 3 inches?
seems ... how do I say ... way freaking high!
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
3/4 -1" at the drain then float the mud no more than a 1/4" per foot to the walls. I know some people that go 1/8th" per foot but I'm a paranoid and 1/4" per foot has always worked for me.
I also don't ever use water in my mud...I use a liquid latex mortar additive.
Lay 3/4" straight sticks (1x2's or whatever) in each corner from the walls to the drain.
Plop some mud under the sticks at the walls to raise it to the proper height/pitch. 1/4" per foot is what I like to use.
Take a straight edge and screed it back and forth over the stix till its level to he tops of the sticks.
Carefully take out the sticks and fill the gaps in with more mud.
Float it with a "wooden" float. The wooden trowel keeps the mud a "bit" rough which helps when you thinset the tiles down IMO.
Also I like using a 1:5 mix and keep it dry unless you are daring enough to set the tiles right in it, in which case make the mix a bit wetter and be sure to back butter the tiles.
And like I said if you really wanna be daring....set the tiles right in the mud as you go along. I never do....must be an inferiority complex I have. Bad upbringing....lol....have fun.
Be well
a...
The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..
My formula is: the preslope tapers to 3/4" thick at the drain, the CPE is 1/16" thick, the setting bed is 1" thick at the drain... total of about 1-13/16" from face of subfloor to back of tile... add your tile and thinset (about 3/8"?) and your entire assembly is a hair over 2" thick. Any plumbing supplier is going to have a cast iron clamping drain assembly with either a round or square grille that will handle that. Why invest the effort in a hand-built tile shower and use a plastic drain fitting?
Where did the 3" number come from?
In my town the new code is that you "have" to use a lead pan. No idea why but its code as of Jan of this year. No biggie.
I'll be mudding it this coming Mudday...I mean Monday. 5:1 at 9PM EST.
BE well
a...The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!
When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..
I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides,
I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace.
I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you
and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.
Another thing... buy and read Michael Byrne's 'Setting Tile', which has a shower pan chapter. Then go to the JLC forum and read the threads there on showers for the latest tweaks to how people are doing it (not straight out of the book).
HD & Lowe's caary the drains. They are marked specifically for tile showers, made I think by Oatey. They do not actually extend as much as mentioned in the article. If your preslope is 1/4" thick at the drain and then covered by a membrane, you still have enough thickness left if you adjust the drain so that at least two threads are engaged. When you put your Noble sealant onto the membrane, someone previously gave a good tip - use some white bread to fill the weep holes so they do not get plugged by the sealant.
At risk of hiacking the thread, I need a referral to someone to quote a mud bed tile job in the New Haven CT area. This doesn't seem to me to be something I want to do as an experiment for a customer the first time. Anyone got a recommendation?
Thanks,
PaulB
Well Paul,
I know the way to NH!!
If you want to give me a call or email, I might consider it if you are interested in discussing it.
I'm a bit slow, it's a bit of a haul, but I gota eat.
EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
[email protected]
How long can you wait?
Hiya Mav...
I'd like to get a ballpark ASAP, if the client approves it I'd say it would need to be done withing about two weeks. Drop me an email if you're interested in discussing it.
Thanks,
PaulB
Two weeks is a blip on the screen compared to my schedule. This weekend I worked both days trying to play catch up.
I dont understand when I hear of some of these guys that dont have any work. We live in Ct where the job growth rate is 5 times smaller than the rest of the nation and I'm all balls out. I turn down way more than I take. Another thread...
Maybe your plumber can do all the mud and you do the tile
if Firebird or Mav can't do it in that time frame ...
I'd suggest taking a look at the John Bridges tile website.
btw .. 2 weeks lead time on something as important as the shower ...
what's up with that?
doesn't sound like a good working situation.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
LOL... Well, I guess I'm applying my schedule to others and that isn't fair. In all modesty I'm cranking through this remodel at a good pace and trying to keep it cranked up but I'm flexible.
PaulB
the schedual isn't a problem ...
it's the not looking for a tile guy 2 months ago instead of 2 weeks ahead that might be a problem for ya. The longer the lead time ... the better the selection of subs to pick from.
so .. if U have work a coulpa months down the road ... now is the time to start finding the right guy.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
I understand Jeff, sorry I wasn't clearer (been that kind of day). The original plan called for leaving the existing c.i tub in place but now the HO wants to replace it with a shower stall... anywayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy.
Hey Buck,
Can it dude. I've seen first hand what Paul has gone through in the past months closing down his photo studio from 25 years of business.
If you had to do what he did, you'd probably still be crying, I know I would.
Paul's on an adventure, into somewhat new territory. This is the new beginning for him.
Why don't you cut someone a little slack once in a while?
It's not like Paul needs me to defend him.
You are always looking for weak spots. Is that something you learned in all that salesman training you did??
EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
[email protected]
double up on yer anger management pills, will ya?
I was making a point to someone ...
oh ... that's right ... not U ...
anyways ...
that could have been read as "constructive criticism". More like a friendly tip.
I'm guessing that Paul read it the way I wrote it.
Kinda what we're all here for, right?
new ideas and constructive criticism ...
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
I was making a point to someone ...
Oh sorry Jeff, I'm sure he needed YOU to point that out to him.
I forgot how perceptive you are.
EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
[email protected]
Lots of info below. I like Michael Byrne's advice too, except for the hot mop pan. ;-)
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=5434
Billy