I have a porch on the northside that the concrete has been damaged by water to the extent the aggregateis exposed by the entry door where the water pools about a 9ft area.There are other areas on along the outer length. Someone has tried to repair by using thinset to the whole porch.Which is coming off.The porch is 4’9″ x 33ft .When checking the slope it is level in some areas or slightly sloping torwards the house.The house was designed with two gabled ends but no roof conecting and protecting the porch.Water is getting into the house and the damage is extensive. The header along the whole porch is rotted and termite damage on the east side by the entry door where water collects header totaly gone.so all is being replaced. Due to this damage a gap formed between the porch and the brick wall.The very first thing I had done was filling in the gap with Hydro cement.To at least curtail the cascadeing of water.I knew this was a temp fix at best and the porch needs to be redone.Water is still coming.in. A contractor has come out and inspected. as to date the roof has been extended, post added for support, new gutters and an added downspout .
I talked with a concrete guy but he is a flat worker and this is not his area of expertice. This is a second home and we are only here part time. I spoke with a flooring person in my hometown and he recommeded putting a concrete cap getting the slope correct, use ditra then placing tile over this.he has very good results with this technique. The weather is about the same extreme hot and cold. Porch is located in south central Ky. In this area they are not familiar with process and will not guarentee outdoor work so if i can give them specifics on how this is done it will be of great help.Even without guarentee I’ll have peace of mind.
the porch is 4’9’x33′. the hitch is there are soldier bricks along the entry doorway with a space of 2.5inches
Replies
The thinset probably would have worked, except that the concrete underneath is not sufficiently sound.
A lot depends on whether the problem with the concrete is all the way through or only "skin deep".
The water pooling of course is a big part of the problem, and I wouldn't be surprised if somewhere along the way someone made it worse by putting salt on it during one of your rare cold spells where water actually freezes.
Tieling damaged concrete porch
Water is penitrating through the concrete in the entryway area.This is where water pools. We do get freeing temps here and I'm sure salt has been used. Although the past few years have been warm temps this area can and do get to 10's and below..
First you need to figure out how to properly slope the area so that water doesn't stand there (and, to whatever extent possible, prevent water from running onto the area).
Then you need to remove concrete down ot where it's solid and rebuild it. (This is likely an inch or more, and may be so much that it's simpler to just replace the slab.) There are several different commercial mixes that are suitable for this, if the concrete substrate is sound.
Tileing a dammaged concrete porch
thank you for your help.
I had an engineer and the builder looked at the porch and both said the porch is solid and not to rip it out.
The question is, how far down do you need to dig to reach sound concrete. If it's salt damaged you may need to chip off an inch or more.
Wanta
the Tile Council of America has several details listed in their handbook and maybe online. TCA dot something...org or net. You might find info on the site.
or schluter, the maker of Ditra.
or try the John Bridge website, everything regarding tile.
if you do any adding with concrete or thinset etc, use a bonding agent...concrete glue (pva glue) . Makes a big difference,
also, any gaps between house and slab....use a urethane caulk made specifically for sealing gaps in masonry. Filling with more concrete products, morter etc will close the gap but it sure won't be absolutely water tight, especially with a poorly pitched slab.
Tileing over damaged concrete porch
I appreciate the info. contacted Schluter. Spoke with a tile guy. Although he has not done this technique his recommendation was
Clean concrete porch,use a proper primer or bonding agent, float dry pack mortar making sure slopes are correct float as you would a shower (I forgot to ask but is this 1/4in per foot?) min 3/4in thick at thinest part, cure at least 2days,although it wont be totally dry for 28 it is ok to lay the Ditra as long as you can walk on the concrete,Then lay tile.
he also gave the name of the rep for this area, so i'll contact him tomorrow.
The local tile person known for quality work took a look this evening. They usually put a coating on then tile , but this does not address the slopeing issues. He is willing to try this technique. I just need to make sure I have all the steps correct. so all is sealed along the wall of porch.
After making repairs and making sure the concrete is properly pitched away from the house, I recommend NobelDeck instead of Ditra.
You can fold the Nobeldeck up the wall (behind the wall flashing or behind the bottom course of wall siding) a few inches to waterproof the house/porch meeting point.
Ditra is a fine product, but for an outdoor installation? I much prefer NobelDeck.
NobelDeck will allow you to use a modified thinset and if you're in a freeze/thaw climate, NobelDeck will give you a better overall installation. It's a little more expensive, but well worth it.
off topic
Mongo, are you in any relation to Mongo homes in the Chapin S.C. area?
Nope. I am pretty much an independent Mongo. But if I'm related to any Mongo, I'm probably more closely related to the Mongo in Blazing Saddles.
Tileing a dammaged concrete porch
Update. Tile people in this area no longer work with mortar. .In showers they use prefab pans. There may be someone out there but i can't find them. Concrete workers want to put a 5-6" slab on top of existing, but this makes porch too high.
i'm exhausted