How might I go about doing a drain in a tile floor for an upstairs laundry room? My thought was to do a little thickness build with thinset around the perimeter, including at the door opening, then thinset down some cement board, then waterproofing it with a stick-on membrane like Schluter’s Kurdi product, lapping up walls maybe 2″, and putting a trapless drain near the washing machine location, then tiling. The trapless drain can pipe to a sump pit I have in the cellar. I can get my local stone fabricator to do me a little granite threshold, say, 1-1/4″ thick, for the door, so we have a litte “dam” there. Any suggestions? Placing the laundry elsewhere is not an option.
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Replies
I would look at how you are doing your launry first. Mine is in a washing machine . It's a device with an integral drain tied into the main plumbing stack. I'm sure you can find some online. :o)
Rik
Yea it all depends on how you decide to un everything.You can buy a box with the drain and the supply lines in the wall. Then it shouldnt be a problem tileing.
Darkworks: We fight for Peace
Edited 2/28/2003 10:48:33 AM ET by RonT
Try just putting the curb around the washer & Dryer. Don't have to mess with the trip hazard at the door, modifying the door size, etc.
The slope on the bottom probably is needed, in fact might be bad. The slope might make the washer walk downhill on the spin cycle.
In the event that the tile ever has to do its job, keep water off of the ceiling below, there will be plenty of water(burst pipe, overfill) it will find the drain.
Agreed that you should just tie it in to the washer drain, with a trap.
We moved the laundry upstairs at our house. The living room ceiling shakes pretty bad on the spin cycle. Most mfgr's suggest putting the machine on concrete. So if at all possible, try putting machine over load bearing wall to minimize vibration.
If this drain is your primary drain for exhaust of laundry water and soap, your approach is unnacceptable. It needs to be tied into the existing stack. But if this is a cabin and you are out in the sticks where Code rangers do not tread, then go for it.
If this is an overflow drain, then your approach is fine. The Kerdi drain and fabric is expensive. I would just spread Laticrete 9235 on the setting bed and go for it. It will only have to hold water a couple times in its life and only for 5 minutes.
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1927
Thanks, Boris. That's what we will do. The primary washer drain will be of the wall box variety. The floor drain is the emergency stopgap. The reason I want to pipe it without a trap to the sump is because tying it to the dvw arrangement could cause smells when the trap water evaporates. I have a couple rolls of Kerdi band left from a previous job that we'll use to seal the perimeter, and we will just use a hardwood sill under the door, caulked underneath.