Replies

1. 
   DanH | Dec 06, 2010 11:04pm | #1

   Well, if I couldn't find an appropriate nosing tile I'd probably just finish the jog with setting plaster and paint it.

2. 
   calvin | Dec 07, 2010 06:48am | #2

   Mike

   You shimmed only the area of the tub?  And the sidewalls jog back to the unfurred studs?  I might have furred the whole wall so the plane of the 1/2"drywall / 1/2" cement bd would have been the same all around.

   If this isn't going to work, end transition with a built up pilaster, or as dan suggests-a mudset nosing applied-lipping over the cement bd and returning to the drywall.

   In a long wall starting alcove-cut back the bottoms of the long wall studs to recess the lip-build out the wing wall over the lip.  Everything flushes up and regular tile works fine.

   You got a picture of this?

3. 
   MBaybut | Dec 07, 2010 07:32am | #3

   Thanks,

   I think I'll go ahead and take down the green board,  there's only 2 pieces, and shim out the rest of the studs (4). I'll have to move out an outlet box to but I think it will look much better doing it this way.

   Thank you again,

   Mike

   
1. 
   cussnu2 | Dec 07, 2010 09:44am | #4

   I've got all one piece tub/ shower units but they all have lips just the same as a tub and all they did on them is take a chisel to the studs and chisel out a space for the lip.  It only amounts to a 1 1/2" or 2" section maybe a 1/4 inch deep.  Much easier than shimming out studs and dealing with different wall thicknesses.  The two studs where the lip actually runs from the floor to six foot height was just ripped down over the six foot length to narrow it up. 

1. 
   MBaybut | Dec 08, 2010 09:13am | #5

   Thanks,

   You can't do that once the studs are in can you?

   Mike

1. 
   calvin | Dec 08, 2010 09:54am | #6

   You can Mike

   If your situation permits the install, you can notch the studs.  The thickness of the lip means alot

   In the case of cast iron where sliding it in is pretty darn difficult w/o tipping the back up and lowering it in.

   Or perhaps like in your case, the long left wall might need notched also so you have room as you start to slide it in the alcove.

   It's one of those cases where you pick the most convenient, easiest, least costly, whatever works to get the parts together and achieve the most pleasing, longest lasting and troublefree install.

   In many cases there's no furring or notching done.  The bottom ot the membrane behind the cement board will go down to and over the tub lip.  The cement board goes down to just shy of the top of the tub lip to allow any water that gets behind it to drain to tub.  Tile goes down to within a large 1/8" of top of tub deck allowing a decent caulk at the base.  Primarily this use for large tiles.  I've seen this done many times, tho it is not recommended by the Tile Council of America.  The less high the lip, the more it seems to be workable.

1. 
   MBaybut | Dec 08, 2010 10:38am | #7

   Thanks,

   The original tub had no furring but when I got the new tub in place there was plenty off end to end wiggle room so in this case I guess I had no option but to furr out. It worked out fine, however, I did notice that the 1/2" cement board isn't the same 1/2" as the green board. Is that for the thinset?

   Mike

2. 
   calvin | Dec 08, 2010 10:54am | #8

   Is that for the thinset?

   Boy, I don't know.  If you're close, you're going to run that tile just beyond the joint in the transition.  Can't be far off enough to make too much difference.  You don't want it flopping around there, but 1/2 is usually 1/2 or damn close.

4. 
   MBaybut | Dec 08, 2010 12:45pm | #9

   CB is 3/8, clearly states on the face 1/2". GB is 1/2" but the tapered edge is 3/8. Maybe that's the reason?? Just curious, not a problem.

   Mike

1. 
   calvin | Dec 08, 2010 01:27pm | #10

   You're going to make me go back out to the shop.........

   and measure, aren't you?

   I'm thinking all I have a scrap out there is of hardi.  But since it's shy-with your thinset-you should be golden.  It's usually the other way around-too much where you don't want it.

   including my waist and it isn't even Christmas yet.

   ugh.

1. 
   MBaybut | Dec 08, 2010 05:08pm | #11

   Called Hardie, actual dimension is .42". They said is to compensate for thinset and tape. There you have it.

   Mike

1. 
   calvin | Dec 08, 2010 05:54pm | #12

   Thank you.

   Now I know the spec's and will try to utilize them to the fullest.

   Yet another pc of information to try and cramb in there.  Wonder which one I'll lose making room for it?

   Anxious to see the tile shots when you're done.