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Huh? Let me get this straight: the door is plumb, in other words if you put a level to the outside verticle edge, it is level, e.g., plumb, e.g., perfectly verticle.
And now it is out of level with the top jamb and sill, e.g, there is a larger gap on one end of the top jamb (outside lets say) than the other side of the jamb (inside, lets say.
And to further complicate things, there is a similar gap at the sill.
And to further complicate this story, when you put a level on to the top of the door, it is out of level.
I would suggest the following things:
1. Stop smoking pot. Right now.
2. Buy a new level. Today. Don’t get it at Sears.
3. Don’t drink anything for at least 72 hours and re-measure.
4. If it is still out of whack, consider Betty Ford Clinic for about 6 months.
5. Watch more episodes of Bob Vila, as I am sure he had the answer on one of his programs. Consider buying a robo grip, as I think this may solve the problem.
6. Re-measure again, and if it is still plumb (but not level), call in a scientist and photograph it for Scientific American.
Stubby, I’ve got news for you. I’d like to be gentle, but this forum does not lend itself well to being gentle, so I’m going to give it to you straight: It is a physical imposibility for your door to be completely plumb (e.g., verticle) and right on with the verticle jambs and not level. It just can’t happen.
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after installing a exterior door I doubled checked for square and plumb it was dead on it is now tilted 3/8 but still square I've been racking my brain for a week tring to figure this out can anyone help please???
*Is all of the interior side of the jamb flush with the interior wall? If not, maybe some of your brick mould is falling in behind your sheathing if it was cut too short around the RO. Is the wall plumb, but the door is not? If both are out of plumb, then you probably need a new level.Just as puzzled as you,Pete Draganic
*The door was perfect and then tilted 3/8" (in or out?)?? Did you screw it to the framing, through the jamb? If so, is the framing moving?
*I understand the door opening is still square, so when you say tilted Are you inferring the door/jambs/casing are all tilted? Which way is it tilted? Is the door tilted with the top toward the hinges or away from the hinges? Or is it tilted in/out, out of plane with the wall (is the top of the door falling into or out of the house)? Is your floor level?When you open/close the door, does the gap between the bottom of the door and the floor remain the same size throughout the door swing? Increase? Decrease?If you open the door halfway and let go of it, does the door sit still? Swing further open? Close?
*I assumed he meant the jambs, not the door, because he said it was still "square." Of course, this would be a good time for him to chime in...
*What was square, the door or the frame? Did you shim behind the hinges? Did you run any screws through hinge holes into the framing? Is this one of those riddles?
*Sorry I should have been a bit more detailed. I have installed the door shimmed and screwed to the rough opening foamed the gap and checked for level swing ect. every thing was fine two or three days later I noticed it didn't look right it rotated in the rough opening it is still plumb but outof level (jambs and sill) the gap is still the same.I checked to see if the floor droped as it is in a vestible but it is ok. I have been installing door and trim for years and never come across this before and it has left me scratching my head.
*Stubby, Glad you explained, only one thing it can be. Gravitational shift. Don't let it get you down!
*Huh? Let me get this straight: the door is plumb, in other words if you put a level to the outside verticle edge, it is level, e.g., plumb, e.g., perfectly verticle.And now it is out of level with the top jamb and sill, e.g, there is a larger gap on one end of the top jamb (outside lets say) than the other side of the jamb (inside, lets say. And to further complicate things, there is a similar gap at the sill.And to further complicate this story, when you put a level on to the top of the door, it is out of level.I would suggest the following things:1. Stop smoking pot. Right now. 2. Buy a new level. Today. Don't get it at Sears.3. Don't drink anything for at least 72 hours and re-measure.4. If it is still out of whack, consider Betty Ford Clinic for about 6 months.5. Watch more episodes of Bob Vila, as I am sure he had the answer on one of his programs. Consider buying a robo grip, as I think this may solve the problem.6. Re-measure again, and if it is still plumb (but not level), call in a scientist and photograph it for Scientific American.Stubby, I've got news for you. I'd like to be gentle, but this forum does not lend itself well to being gentle, so I'm going to give it to you straight: It is a physical imposibility for your door to be completely plumb (e.g., verticle) and right on with the verticle jambs and not level. It just can't happen.
*One more question for you and I may have this mystery cracked. Did you buy the door at DIY or Builder's Square?Level headedly,Pete Draganic
*Stubby,The butler did it with the candle stick holder.Seriously now....all went well till your f_o_a_m finished expanding which takes exactly the amount of time you say elapsed when you noticed the door was magically moved in a way that you don't know how to explain well enough to keep us wise guys from putting you on our flamingrotisserie barbecuepit....I think you're done....time to serve you up to all,Jack : )
*Ok you guys dont tell me that you have never done something know that you did it right only to go back later to find that it was not right. I was just wondering if anyone else has had this happen to them.
*Stubby,Anyone who b sprayed foam tob fully fill a window or door jam has been b in your shoes.Sawzall, slice out the f_o_a_m, reset door, make sure you use long hinge screws, and a quality level, expect a tiny bit of door drop, work door for a few days, and finally do not fill back up with b foam. Only a small amount to stop airleaks, use fiberglass to fill out complete.Been there, done that,Jack : )
*Ahhhh! Don't touch the fiberglas! It IS useless in this situation, whatever fg's general merits may be. I did my first window with fg and regret it -- messy, time-consuming, air sails through and it provides negligible insulation. I'd like to reset the window, but i did this nice interior trim job that I'd hate to mess up...... :(Use the gun type of foam that Freddy is pushing in the current FH -- you can order it from EFI in Mass. Minimal expanding, no mess, much more foam per can, and you can take one squirt of foam whenever you want -- the gun doesn't clog (there is a cheap version of the gun for about $25 -- which I bought). I can't say enough good about it. You can confidently fill the entire space with this foam -- in fact you pretty much have to because it expands so little. I'll never buy a aerosol can of that (&^%(* foam again.What you're saying, I think, is that one of the still-plumb jambs moved up or down, racking the frame. Jack's right, it could be foam. Also, perhaps one of your sill shims shifted -- better to trim the subfloor level than shim? Odd that the casing/brick mould didn't get pulled off?
*andrew,foam/fiberglass methods works.Low expansion foam (expensive for one door application) works well also.Send stubby your "subsidy" check,Jack : )
*Not all that expensive -- $15 for a large can that could do more than one door. Less waste -- you get to keep the leftover -- and less trimming 'cause you aren't guessing how big the foam will grow. Also, R5/inch. If you haven't tried it, you must! I hated the throwaway can stuff."Subsidy check"? You think I'm some sort of shill? I'm disappointed in you, Jack! I assure you, I do nothing productive.
*andrew,....the can for $15 and the cheap $25 gun....equals?b Not trying to beancount, but when it's this easy....Oddly working the "payback" numbers,Jack : )
*You get to keep the gun, too, Jack. On my sixth can, the $25 keeps getting subdivided...
*andrew,stubby has (I conclude from his post)one door to fix. If he has an entire home to do, I'm with you...just trying to stick with the facts presented...Sort of a blonde verses lawyer riddle for you...b How many lawyers (with cans of foam) does it take to foam one door?Jack : )
*In Fred's article in FHB 121, the gun is listed as $111.00. You mention a cheap one for $25.00. What do you give up for the $86.00?Rich Beckman
*Buy me the $110 one, and I'd be happy to do a comparison. :)According to EFI (www.efi.org, a non-profit passthrough that I purchased the gun & foam from):>Two application guns are available. The Pageris gun is a high quality professional gunthat should last for many years with appropriate care. The less expensive Ultra gun is adecent quality gun primarily for homeowners to use with a couple of cans of foam.Contractors should consider the Gun and Foam Starter Kit, as it includes one PagerisGun, two Cannisters of PUR-FILL foam, one Foam Gun Cleaner, six Needle Tips, and aconvenient Steel Carrying Case.EFI/sealantsHad I realized how nice this system is, I might have seriously considered the more expensaive one. However, with finesse the less expensive gun can be controlled adequately; it just may not last as long. Once you've tried this product, you'll never buy another aerosol can with a straw again.
*Easy: two. One to spray, the other to keep AJ away. :)
*andrew,I guess if you can't win them just spray em with foam...Lawyer logic?.....Jack : )
*Got to have the last word, eh AJ?Hey stubby, have you figured out the door yet?!?
*andrew,It's not the last word I want to here it's just that I am following the thread and it seems you are getting sidetracked...no?b One can of low expansion DAP foam for $3.oo plus is available at Lowes...savings...$34.oo aproximately providing b we all are talking about foaming one door...Lawyer="arguementmakertotheendrightorwrongjusttohearoneselfspeak"...?Jack : )