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I’m planning to build a smallish shed (15′ x21′) framed with hemlock timbers (mostly 6″x6″) on 3′ centers. I will mortise and tenon the timbers by hand.
The local mill will furnish the rough-sawn hemlock to me green, still dripping. My question is: is it better to cut and fit the hemlock timbers while they are still green and wet? Or is it better to sticker the timbers up, cover them, and let them air-dry for four to six months, and then cut and fit the timbers after drying?
Thanks for your advice/guidance.
JMCC
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It's always a tough question.
It is easier to work with green wood, especially on hardwood. Trouble is, it shrinks when it dries and the joinery is not as fine.
In your case, for a shed, that may not matter much. Stickering them for that period of time will help some, but you're fooling yourself if you think they'll be dry and stable after that short a time. It may take a few years of air-drying to reach moisture equivalency. Does the mill offer kiln-drying?
Me, I'd probably just work them up when I had time, and not get all bent out of shape about open joints. A lot of joints can be covered anyway, depending on what you're doing.
*With hemlock, you may find your timbers are none too straight if you try to dry them.
*I agree with Dick . Those 6x6's could be really twisted by the time you dry them out. I would go ahead and put them up. Dave
*I worked abit with eastern hemlock both in timberframes and stick framed houses. The wood is so much easier to work with green. Dry it was hard and prone to splitting, especially on the boards.Found that if I cut my joints tight to begin with, sheathed the frame , I had minimal twisting/warping of the wood. My joinery never seemed to loosen sufficiently to worry about.If time is of little concrn, you could pond dry the timbers; let them soak in a pond for 6months and then use them. The wood will still work more easily than dry and you will have less shrinkage and movement as the water drys out rather than sap.walk gooddavid