Going to build a Doug Fir pergola/ bird feeder structure this Winter for Spring assembly.
Looking for a large Makita saw , chain morticer and other goodies.
Anyone got anything to sell ??
Walter
Going to build a Doug Fir pergola/ bird feeder structure this Winter for Spring assembly.
Looking for a large Makita saw , chain morticer and other goodies.
Anyone got anything to sell ??
Walter
This 654-sq.-ft. ADU combines vaulted ceilings, reclaimed materials, and efficient design, offering a flexible guest suite and home office above a new garage.
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Replies
Don't you have some timber framing tools you'd like to sell?
I asked him once in a thread and got no responce , but maybe this will get one. Thanks
I got into the TF topic with frenchy for a couple of days, some time ago. As I recall he gave me a good description of what tools he had, saying that he'd bought them new and would sell them at half of list price.
Thats exactly what I'm looking for !
Walter
When I thought my house was gonna sell and I'd be moving on, my next stop was gonna be doing a timber frame. I put together a list I got off of the Forestry Forum and Jim Roger's list
Calculator (construction type and or scientific)
Chalk line or ink line
Combination square
Framing square
Lumber crayons or chalk
Misc. layout tools: dividers, compass, trammel points, Big Al, Protractor square, parallel line layout ruler, etc
Pencils carpenter and regular
Plumb bob
Stair gauges
Tape measure (16 ft. or 25 ft.)
Utility knife
Hand tools
Awl
Block plane (sharp)
Boring machine & bits
Brace & bit (3/4" & 1" auger, and/or set)
Carving tools
Clamps (24" bar or Quik-Grip type)
Corner chisel
Crosscut & rip handsaws
Hammer (16-22 oz. smooth face)
Hand planes (rabbet, smoothing)
Levels (torpedo, 28 in. and/or 48 in.)
Outside dimension calipers
Sharpening files & Sharpening stone
Slick
Timber framing chisel (sharp, 1.5 in. and/or 2 in.)
Tool bag or box
Various size smaller chisels
Wooden or leather head mallet (2-3 lb.)
Power tools
Chain or chisel mortiser
Circular saws (7 1/4 ", 8 1/2", or 16")
Electric hand plane (4", 6" or 12")
Extension cord (#12, 25' minimum)
1/2" electric drill & bits (1" - 1.5" auger and/or set)
Personal Safety Equipment
Ear plugs
Hard hat
Job-site drinking bottle
Nail apron
Safety glasses & Sunglasses
Work gloves
Chaps (when using chainsaws)
Misc: Sawhorses and/or ponies
I hope this list is helpful to you for figuring out what you need in order to do your project.
Jim Rogers
Jim Rogers Sawmill
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension
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Hard at work cutting parts for a TFG barn project.
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A = Calculators
B = Chalkline
C = Combination square
D = Framing Square
E = Lumber crayons
F = Dividers
G = Compass
H = Trammel Points on yard stick with stop block
I = "Big Al" Borneman layout tool
J = Protractor square
K = Parallel line layout ruler
L = Pencils carpenter and regular
M = Stair buttons for framing square
N = Tape measures (25' and 30')
O = Utility knife
P = Speed square
Q = Bevel gauge
R = Hook ruler
S = Marking gauge
T = Ruler
U = Folding ruler
V = Japanese square
He usually has some tools for sale as well but what I did was put the chisels and a few other things on my EBAY WATCH LIST and there was some great deals to be had!!
Looks like I'll be waiting a while to get to that next stop...sniff sniff
RD : ) http://www.ramdass.org/
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Blog http://cliffordrenovations.com/WP/
The doo da man ain't got nuttin' on me : )~
whats the Bi gAl for? comic relief?
Misc. layout tools: dividers, compass, trammel points, Bi gAl, Protractor square, Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
The Big al? funny you should ask...I actually do know what thats for and I think you can only get them from the FF forum if they still even sell them. Very cool layout tool for TF'in'
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View ImageView ImageView ImageThis tool, designed mainly for laying out to a reference edge, has a fence that rides along the edge of the timber and slots in half-inch increments for drawing lines at set distances parallel to that edge. The fence is deep enough to straddle a waney edge. Very handy.Seventy five smackers
RD : ) http://www.ramdass.org/
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Blog http://cliffordrenovations.com/WP/
The doo da man ain't got nuttin' on me : )~
Edited 8/22/2008 7:18 pm ET by andybuildz
"Play that washboard there, Clem"
LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
Big Al
View Image''Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.'' Plato
Me Grissman N Garcia and the Sleepy Hollow Hog Stompers..ok that'll work : )~
I'm the one playin' the HinJewz harp...lol
RD : ) http://www.ramdass.org/
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Blog http://cliffordrenovations.com/WP/
The doo da man ain't got nuttin' on me : )~
Edited 8/22/2008 7:26 pm ET by andybuildz
I got one of them, man, talk abodt nummb lippsss.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You play a Big Al with yer lips??? WOWWWWW...kewl...this I gotta see...
RD : ) http://www.ramdass.org/
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Blog http://cliffordrenovations.com/WP/
The doo da man ain't got nuttin' on me : )~
Andy,
Thanks very much for the complete list.
I was only thinking about the major items when I posted.
Great idea about the E Bay wanted items.
Thanks again for the ideas - I was only thinking when I posted that someone here might have some items.
Walter
I'm still getting daily auctions sent to me from Ebay http://search.ebay.com/framing-chisels_W0QQfnuZ1QQfposZ11724QQfromZR9QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ34QQfstypeZ1QQsspagenameZSTRKQ3aMEFSRCHXQ3aSRCHQQxpufuZx and there's deals there that can't be beat. One other bit of advice is to get yourself the best diamond sharpening stone you can afford. Then you can turn any chisels into the high quality you need. I'd suggest a slick and a 1 1/2" and 2" and corner chisel to start out with....along with a real good stones from course to very fine. Diamond stones are probably your best bet in the long run if you can afford it. You can probably get one diamond stone with course on one side and fine on the other for about $125-ish. I found through much research that the DMT stones are probably the best http://search.ebay.com/dmt-diamond-stone_W0QQcrlpZ1275381944Q5f1QQfnuZ1QQfposZ11724QQfromZR9QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ34QQfstypeZ1QQkeywordZdmtQ20diamondQ20stoneQQsspagenameZSTRKQ3aMEFSRCHXQ3aSRCHQQxpufuZx
RD : ) http://www.ramdass.org/
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Blog http://cliffordrenovations.com/WP/
oh yeh!! --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muhvpNuVN4Y
Edited 8/23/2008 6:24 am ET by andybuildz
http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/10-DMT-DuoSharp-Bench-Stone-P1C24.aspx?UserID=1694969&SessionID=QpNxG3ltP1n54TQZpztN
RD : ) http://www.ramdass.org/
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Blog http://cliffordrenovations.com/WP/
oh yeh!! --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muhvpNuVN4Y
Andy,
Thanks again for all the help.
I'll keep you posted on my finds.
Walter
Good luck with your build...at least one of us gets to have some fun...lol.
RD : ) http://www.ramdass.org/
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Blog http://cliffordrenovations.com/WP/
oh yeh!! --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muhvpNuVN4Y
Heres a similar one my friend did for me several years ago.
I want to build the next one myself.
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PERFECT starter project. Has the corner braces and the typical elements you'd need in any big project. I'm psyched for you Walter!! You cutting your own timbers from logs by chance? You could always get an inexpensive chainsaw mill/guide to start out with from Bailey's. http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=alaskan&catID=198http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?
PS...one thing I do know is green wood is far easier to work with then seasoned timbers.
RD : ) http://www.ramdass.org/
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Blog http://cliffordrenovations.com/WP/
oh yeh!! --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muhvpNuVN4Y
Andy,
We have a local yard near the Coast that gets lots of DF in on rail cars -- then resaws to what you need.
I'll go that route for this project.
Thanks once more.
Walter
I'm hopin' the joist don't blow the hoist.''Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something.'' Plato
Never have dealt with them but these folks might be worth a call. http://www.timberwolftools.com/ ........... they're in Falmouth .............but you already probably knew that.
"There's something about Marxism that brings out warts; the only kind of growth this economic system encourages." P.J. O'Rourke
Thanks very much.
Just starting to look and I didn't know about them.
They're only an hour and a half from me.
Walter
the slateman
Timberwolf is where I bought all my tools. They are great people and I wouldn't hesitate at all to buy anything else from them.
Edited 8/23/2008 12:06 pm ET by frenchy
If you're in midcoast Maine check out the Shelter Institute. One of the first owner/builder schools, they used to be in downtown Bath but a few years back moved to Woolwich on US1 just before the Wiscasset town line. http://www.shelterinstitute.com/index.htm At the institute they have Woodbutcher Tools. Not much in the way of power tools but they did have a nice selection of handtools (slicks, etc) ........ books too.
"There's something about Marxism that brings out warts; the only kind of growth this economic system encourages." P.J. O'Rourke
I built several houses years ago for folks who'd attended Shelter Inst.
They wanted the knowledge but not the splinters.
I'll check out the hand tools Thanks.
Walter
theslatemen
Hand tools are fine if you can afford the time.. To work they must be razor sharp and sharpening frequently is just part of the deal. If you don't know how to sharpen a tool sharp enough to shave with either learn how or use power tools.
Power tools also work best if kept sharp but there are several services that cater to sharpening the edge of power tools.. (among those are printers service companies, printers use extremely sharp egdes to print with and cut papers with, if you bring a set of planer blades into a saw service for sharpening chances are that's where the blades go to be sharpened..
I've done both on this home. Hand tools require a lot more effort and time. Because of that when using hand tools I needed to get into a near zen like state in order to do good work, whereas with power tools I only felt a need to be careful and do good layouts.. Just for example one mortice and tenion dones by hand (except for a hole hawg to remove the bulk of the waste from the pocket) would easily take me 4 hours to do whereas with power tools I could do over 20 an hour..
Now I was working with hardwoods, dried hardwoods, not realitively green Fir which works so much easier than dried white oak does.
Thanks Frenchy.
Any idea when you'll be willing to part with your power items.
I'm going to call Timber Wolf too - they sometimes have a line on used according to their web site.
I'm not building a whole house ( yet ) just a fancy pergola -- but who knows what the future holds.
Walter
theslateman
I've got about a week of actual work left using them however the point I actaully get around to that might be more than a month off. What makes things even harder to calculate is I might have a job lined up that requires extensive travel. If that happens I don't know when I could get around to that point.
The problem is that all the timberwork I have left is finish stuff. Real low priority. Extremely easy to put off for a long time..
There is an outfit in Canada called Mequiers (or some permutation of that spelling) that sells everything under the sun. I got most of my chisels, slicks, and ink lines from them. Of all the tools I didn't get, the chisel morticer is the one I most wish I had gotten. All my roof system, ridge logs, purlins, posts and corbels were M&T'd and cutting those puppies by hand, even drilling the rough mortices was a hugh PIA.
Stef
Thanks - I'll check them out as well.
Walter
theslateman
I thought by now I would be done with all my framing tools and on to strickly finish work.. I don't have much framing left to do but I'm concentrating on getting the outside done completely (including planting all the flowers etc) .. and have left the inside bits for later.
I have the really cool tools needed to do timberframing work quickly and well.. Including a couple not mentioned thus far that make a world of differance.. First is a chain morticer.. takes making a mortice pocket from a slow drawn out process of hogging out a lot of material and then gradually getting to do the fine work to a 5 minute hog out and then fine work
When you have a lot of mortice pockets to cut it can save days (or in my case weeks) of work..
The other is a groove cutter.. think of a skil saw with a dado head and you have an idea of what it does.. Perfect for wire chases, plumbing, decorative treatments, etc..
I even used it in a couple of places as a structural groove to "tongue and groove" timbers.. (giant 12x12 timbers with 6x4 infills)
MY deal is I'll sell these well behaved tools with only a modest amount of experiance (and wear) for 1/2 the cost of new. You should be able to build your house and then resell without losing much if anything..
Frenchy,
Are you able to sell these yet ? Or will you still need them for several more months ?
Count me as one of the parties interested in purchasing your items when you've completed your work.
Thanks , Walter