Timber Framers…
I am looking to cut a timber framed truss soon – who makes the best chisels, slicks etc.?
I won’t be needing a beam saw, chain mortiser or CNC machine, just yet.
Anything else I should buy before I wade in?
Anyone getting out of the business wanna clean out their garage?
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Replies
Look for the posts from Frenchy, in Knots. I don't know if he has slicks and other hand tools but he did some timber framing and is done with the tools he bought.
Barr makes the best chisels and slicks these days. Spendy though. Japanese timber framing tools are also very highly regarded- they're more delicate and finicky, but they can hold an incredible edge if taken care of.
The other option is to look for used, older timber framing stuff- flea markets, antique shops, and ebay can be your friends. A couple of the better manufacturers are Douglas, Pexto, and Greenlee. There were lots more good makers, those are just a sample. That's the route I went. Another good resource is "Patrick's blood and gore"- google it. The man is an encyclopedia of old tools. If you get on his mailing list, you'll get the opportunity to buy old woodworking and carpentry tools in good shape, and he'll tell you exactly how good they are. Not especially cheap, but good.
And look up that deal with Frenchy- I'm sure he has some nice tools.
Other things you might need- some people like corner chisels, for mortices. Layout is very important- make sure you have a setup that you like, marking knives, combination squares, etc. A shoulder plane is very nice for cleaning up tenon shoulders. A japanese style pull saw is a must, if you don't have one already.
zak
"When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin
"so it goes"
Brian ,
Look in General Discussions under "White Oak Timbers for sale". frenchy mentions wanting to sell his tools in that post.
Brian, Barr chisels and slicks are a great way to go, though you will pay about $120 for a 1", 1 1/2", or 2" mortising chisel that is about ready to go right out of the box. Another way to go is to watch Ebay for someone selling a lot of "old chisels", look for socket chisels (which will often need new handles fitted) with plenty of length. You don't want to pay much for a chisel sight unseen, as you might need hours (and hours and hours) of time to get the back flat, a new handle made and the thing sharp. Of course, there is no reason you can't cut some timber trusses with a couple of decent Stanleys from the hardware store. One item I highly recommend is a rabbett plane. I've been using the regular 1 1/4" wide Stanley model for years (bought as an antique). And you do definitely want a good Japanese (pull stroke) hand saw. And a nice framing square (I like the stainless steel one availaable from Lee Valley). And some Starrett stair gauges. And....
I love my 6" makita power planer.
------------------
"You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."
Barr Quarton
http://www.barrtools.com/
Woodcraft has some decent substitutes
Wars of nations are fought to change maps. But wars of poverty are fought to map change.
Edited 3/4/2007 5:06 pm ET by MisterT
I will be calling Mr Quarton soon - most of the good tools on Ebay right now are similar in cost and I may as well buy new.
I'll hold off on the mortiser and cnc for now.
Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
Brian,
one truss? Yeh, you can do it with hand tools. I didn't get silly I bought Stanley chisels and got them really sharp Via the scary sharp method. You could hand plane things and cut everything with a hand saw.. but beyond one, if time is a consideration you need to start looking into power tools. (unless you realy want to dispose of some time)
One truss/porch this spring...
and one pool house in the future...
and I have been drawn to timber framing for a while, so we'll see where this goes.
Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
Brian,
I flunked wood shop when I took it,
because of that I avoided doing any wood work except for the most rudmentary stuff all of my life..
However I love timberframed old barns and that grew into appreciation for timberframe homes..
When I decided that I had to have one I got a quote for part of my house..
The bid was 1 million, 100 thousand dollars (for part of a house)!
I bought the tools and tried, I still couldn't saw a straight line with a hand saw and power tools were expensive.
But compared to 1 million 100 thousand dollars it was pennies!
I found out if you buy the wood at a sawmill it's really cheap.. I mean unbelieveably cheap! All the wood to build a 5500 sq ft place out of fine hardwoods like black walnut and white oak cost me less than $20,000.00. 50,000 bd.ft. of hardwood for $20,000.00
Costs are higher now but you should get the idea..
So I bought all the power tools needed. Not only timberframing tools but wood working tools like table saws, jointers, planners, etc..
When finished with them I'll sell them and recover 1/2 of what I paid.
The next person who buys them will sell them for about what they pay for them and their costs will be even lower!
Bottom line, if you look you'll find pictures of my timberframe in the archieves. , I'll have a tiny fraction of the original bid in the whole place and I did it without a set of plans or any prior experiance.
Buy the tools have fun and build a nice place!
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/default.php?cPath=36
I'm not a timber framer, but we live in a custom-designed 2yr. old timber-framed cape (shrinkage cracking on oak-pine-maple-cherry-willow-beech-ash frame almost done !!).
Our builder is a member of TFG - they have a nice website and their forum may be more specific to your needs...
http://www.tfguild.org/
Thank you Dave.
Treat every person you meet like you will know them the rest of your life - you just might!
Lee Valley standard sorby registered mortise chisel. Not the "timber framing" mortise. you go at the mortise from both sides. pick your tennon width-- probably 1 1/2, but 2" is nice too. Long handled japanese tennon slick. as wide as you can afford. I love my lee valley low angle block plane. it is 20 bucks more than when I bought it, but still a lovely tool. A nice aggressive japanese saw is also a worthwhile tool. Layout layout layout. Good square. Chalk line- japanese, or just get a regular one and re-string with braided 50 lb dacron line. I work from chalk lines, centered on the timber, so a nice crisp line is a good thing. A sharp adze is nice if you want to add some curves to where different size things meet. Sounds like a small job,, keep things sharp sharp sharp sharp! Enjoy!
d