Timbertech Radiance Rail attached to Radiused Surface
bayviewrr
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I have installed many a section of Timbertech’s Radiance Rail system. All of the installations however have been to a flat surface and as such, I have make all my rail cuts with a chop saw. I now have customer who has a home with four 8″ round columns on their front porch and they would like the rails installed between the columns. Any suggestions on how to cut the radius into the end of the rails to provide nice snug fit between the rail and the column? I think a flat cut against a radiused surface will look like garbage.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Replies
cut it straight and then radius it
I'd cut it straight, a little long, and then grind in the radius with either a small belt sander, or a side grinder.
I have a friend who carves things out of logs, and I would probably borrow one of his side grinders that has a wheel with chain saw chain wrapped around it. Not sure of the brand name.
just a thought ... an 8 inch circular saw blade run down the end of a slightly long straight cut. Similar to coving a piece of trim on a table saw. The problem might be to control that cut. hey ... just an idea.
Probably not the way to go, but I'm thinking that most of the time when I've seen a situation like this the column was notched.
Don't know anything about the railing material you have to cut but a jig on a band saw is a good way to make precise radiused cuts. Pivot point needs to be in line with the blade tips. A fence is used to hold the railing centered to the pivot point.
hmm.. interesting replies so far
Yes, that would be butt-ass ugly to cut it straight.
I am surprised Timbertech doesn't have a solution for this but I suppose they don't want you using anything but their system components. This is the real world though and customers want something different from time to time.
I am actually on my way over to family to install some Radiance rail to precast, round columns. I have a feeling it's going to come down to belt sanding the shape to the rail OR modifying a mounting plate to fit the round column and then installing the rail to that flat surface. It will all come down to whether the mounting hardware will work when the rail is belt sanded to shape.
Using circular saw as suggested is as dangerous as it sounds.. I actually can't believe it was suggested. Using a band saw would not work. How are you going to swing a 6', 8' or longer section of rail to get that radius??? Maybe you could get away with a jig saw and this approach but a belt sander is most likely the safest and will provide the best finish.
I'll update this post once I have completed a section.
belt sanded to column profile
I was happy to find out that the mounting hardware for the TimberTech Radiance rail works without any issues on the pre-cast, round columns present on the job. The only modification required was to sand the radius into the top and bottom rail caps. When you cut your sections, leave them a little long ( 1 inch ) and belt sand one side and test for fit. Then measure from the deepest part of the radius and mark the other end for finished length and duplicate your radius and use that measured mark as your deepest section of the shape. To take out any slight gaps, grap some colored caulk that matches your rail color
Any other method mentioned sounds either dangerous or hard to control.
Router
I'd probably use a router with a piloted bit and a template. You can make the template more easily on a bandsaw than you can cut the end of the rail. Or a jig saw with a trammel point. I would not cut the rail to fit tight against the post but would leave 1/2" or so. Expansion and contraction, which I've noticed in composite decking, would be less of an issue.
Another option is to make a flat notch in the side of the column.
If you actually looked at these rail profiles, you'd realize that a flat notch is not a practical option. Beside that, the rot factor for this type of rail "pocket" would negate using these composite rail sections in the first place.
My preferred option is a Festool jigsaw with a long blade (490 179 blade) and a radius jig set up on site. I doubt you're going to find a long enough bearing guided router bit to radius cut the depth of the Radiance handrail sections. Pre-measuring and cutting the sections in the shop on a band saw would be my second option.
Fit all sections tight. Leaving a 1/2" gap is unneccessary and would look just as bad as the straight cuts IMO.