Ok, I am a newbie. I am a first-time homeowner that has resided in my home for approximately four years. House was new construction when I purchased it four years ago, and this means the paint on it is what the builder’s contractors put on it.
The house itself is a brick-front with the other sides, rear sided with Hardiplank. Actually, the Hardiplank siding appears to be in good condition as it is not peeling, chiping, blistering, and I have to rub a surface considerably hard to barely get a chalking effect on my fingers.
What is most noticed from the street (and even closer) is the dirt, soot, mildew from the continued weathering and continued construction in the community, plus some unprimered paint that has failed on all non-Hardiplank surfaces. This includes window and door trim, porch (not the round columns, though as they are great and must have also been primered at the factory like the Hardiplank), bay window, and ledger boards.
I know that the exterios needs to be pressure washed before any activity. Also, I think re-caulking is an absolute necessety. Then, primering un-primered surfaces and an overall painting thereafter, but I really am not sure as I am new too all of this. As such, I have started asking neighbors, friends, etc. about painters, their painting experiences, etc., and sought recommendations therein. Here are some examples:
Neighbor down the street was recommended a company called Certa Pro-Painters, which I think have been mentioned briefly on this forum before (limited search last night turned up only a couple of threads on them). Her paint job (last Spring) cost, say X amount of dollars and she has the same floorplan as my house but without the walkout basement and with the front porches. I estimate it would cost approximately 50% more than that neighbor’s job. They are supposedly bonded, but I cannot get specifics until they come to my home on Friday for an evaluation and quote–at which time I’ll ask questions.
Next-door neighbo had his best friend paint his house during last mid-Summer. They pressur washed the home, supposedly re-caulked, and painted away. Neighbor moved two weeks ago before I could talk to him, but I did speak to his friend that did the painting (they were neutrally repainting the interior for the home’s resale). His quire for pressure washing the home, recaulking, and repainting all appropriate surfaces was approximately 85% of the neighbor’s down the street. This was a big surprised in that instead of 1.5X I got a quote for 0.85X.
I have also took to venturing out to www.painterbids.com and drilled down by state and city to come up with listings. I found the top listing and am awaiting to arrange an quote from them as well. And during all of this I and the wife have our concerns. We know little of paint and can perform a limited amount of research on the Internet. We’ve used Sherwinn-Williams paints before, including some of the Superpaint. I think Duron, Ben Moore, etc., etc., etc. companies all have some quality paint and then the big boxes may to (I don’t really know).
In seeking quotes would it be offensive to ask to specify a paint product or ask for the option to buy the paint ourselves? I know consumers have a bad impression at times about trademen, but I can fear the most fear of any newbie homeowner seek not for the cheapest quote but one that I can have confidence in. Unfortunately, I am in the carpetbagger south and the idea of a painter cutting (thinning) paint to pocket extra money is what I feel as being a legitimate concern.
So, I do wonder how I should be approaching all of this. If I pan on staying in the house another 2-4 years vs another 5-10 years I am sure there could be options, but are options open to me by professional painters? I do seek to stay clear of those subs working for the builder as I and the wife have not been impressed with the work–especially the lack of primering.
Oops, I should state that we are in Gwinnet County, Georgia. So, if there are reputable painters I should be contacting that would be greatly appreciated.
Replies
Good lead for quality job- Painters and Decorators Association of America. If you see this label in the phone book, or look on the web I believe they have a list of local people you can call.
-zen
I was faced with the same situation four years ago and had several painters come and bid the job. I had a huge variation in pricing and ended up going with a middle to high bidder that had good references. Used sherwin williams duration paint and was happy with the job for the most part. Now, four years later I have several areas where the paint is again peeling up. This is occurring mainly on drip cap around the entire exterior of the house that was not primed when installed. It was scrapped and primed before repainting. I need to talk to sherwin williams about their guarantee but I don't have a whole lot of faith in that. I may just remove all the drip cap and install new material that is back primed.
I also have hardiplank siding and the original paint was very chaulky after four years. The duration paint appears tp be holding up well. I had really hoped to get at least seven years out of the trim paint but I beleive the back priming issue is the major source of the problem. I can't say that I have ever seen a new house built here that had trim primed prior to installation though. Live and learn I guess. Tom
Douglasville, GA
Thats another clue, you should be able to get about an 8-10 year guarantee out of a pro, and on the contract.
-zen
I wish that were the case but I couldn't get a single pro, and I spoke to a lot of them, would give more that a year. Hell, I can make paint last a year without even trying. Really I don't see a whole lot of contractors here that I would really call professionals, at least not like I was familiar with up in the northeast.Tom
Douglasville, GA
Tom, somehow I think you are illustrating what I fear the common case will be in this neck of the woods. Maybe its because of all of the construction that there is sufficient work to lose one-off clients. I've broken too many bones in my early life to consider doing this myself, though.
Do you mean 'Painting and Decorating Contractors of America'? I followed their website and found several contractors, sent email to a couple of them, and got a call from one this morning (he's stopping by around 10AM). I think once he leaves I will also contact my local SW & BM stores for contractor recommendations.
http://www.pdca.org/meetpdca.htm
Yeah I think you got them, this is the reputable paint organization/ affiliation.
Look for the seal that is on the web page, you may find it in the phone book, or search a pro on their site.
Its not a guarantee, but the group does have a code of ethics members are supposed to follow.
-zen
Ok, well I found one from there and he stopped by. Waiting on the return call for the quote. I didn't realize it would be difficult to do an on-site quote, but maybe there are some calculations some rather do from their office than in the field. His company (in the business for 30 years, he said) uses Porter paints, with an all acrylic for the hardieplank and semi-gloss (latex?) on the trim (windows & doors). I was pleasently surprised in that they take no money up-front and only say their finished when I'm completely satisfied. Dang!
Also got a call from someone I found through http://www.painterbids.com, but I do not know if they have affiliation with PDCA. Likewise, they also use Porter paints, but is open to using my preference from SW, BM, etc. Their website is http://www.beautifulhomesinc.com/ and out of Cobb county. I also offered to email pics (distant elevation, close-up on details, etc.) if its easier and liked that idea. I couldn't find anything affilitory on their website.
If they arent affiliated, it doesnt mean they are a poor contractor, its just a good group. The dues are pricey, so not all want in on it.
Youll get some gut reactions on your bidders.
-zen
I just got a gut reaction, which comes in the form of sticker shock. LOL The second quote was almost $6K. At least he set my (being the customer) expectations correctly by saying for my first house I chose a high-maintenance home.
There are many factors-
Your house is big, or high... special equipment
They may be planning to sand between each coat... which they should.
They are going to use a quality product.
They are probably custom painters.
Or-
they are foreseeing problems
they are too busy.
Or you live in a hot neighborhood. lol
Thats just a few off the top of my head.
Take a look at a few more guys, and see if they are anywhere near that price, ask the routine if you want, Im sure they will be happy to walk you through it.
-zen
nuke... good painters come in all shapes and sizes..
good ones..
some will command a premium price and do premium work
some will command a so-so price and do premium work
some will work for wages and do premium work
then there is that great multitude who should never pick up a paint brush
i'd go by reputation and references more than priceMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Well, I figured by his comment (high maintenance house) he meant that between the front two-story porches and the nearly two-dozen double-hung windows and four white doors (and a couple of black ones), the rear three-story elevation (including daylight basement) that the job was not trivial.
I do not find the quote terribly offensive, just surprised me. I expected something around $4.5K based on a decent painter (I thought) for a house 3/4 the job as mine from last Spring. The first quote didn't help to set my expectations, of course. :) I have smoeone coming by tomorrow and I do plan on getting quotes for a couple of more weeks and then its showtime. Wee!
yes.. i have long talks with my homeowners about long term maintenance ( painting )
i always urge clad windows.. because sash is one of the most expensive items in paintingMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Just my two cents. Go to the paint stores for recommendations. When the person comes by you will get an impression from them. But the person who you talk to might never be back until the job is done.
After you meet them you should get references from costumers. How long has the paint been on their house? Are they the type of costumer that sees the same stuff you do? Some people just don't care or look.
David, one of the two was recommended by SW. And the neighbor that recommended the other painter is just as much visual as I am about detail. We often had the two best look exteriors in the neighborhood. This is why I was sorry to see him go. That neighbor had his house done about this time last year. Both are willing to provide references, copies of insurance, workman's comp, and bond.
Go with your gut.
Gut? What if I'm gutless? :)
Send the money to me.
Nah. And Certa must be reading this forum, because they just got me their quote--which was about $3800.
Painters and Decorators Association of America? I've never heard of them. I'll have to do some Googling on this and see what comes of it.
Bill (Hartmann), that's scary as heck about Certa! I agree about not simlpy buying into a name and no telling what the local brush-holder is like in qualifications and ethics. You mentioned something about the siding: "Also if it is fiber cement siding it should not need repainting for another 25 years or soming this seriously wrong." Hardiplank that I've seen installed in my neighborhood looks primered, but not painted. How does the side material contribute to paint lasting?
My concern is that this could be used as justification for a contractor to use the cheapest paint on this kind of siding, no? Or, am I misinterpreting what you were saying.
I guess the problem with getting a 'pro' is that I feel that the majority of those I'm running into, seeing, etc. are not professionals. Aside from following leads F&DAA this could be difficult. So, let me go do some more research. :)
Well I might have stretched it a bit on the painting.But one of the great advantages of fibercement siding is the way that it takes paint. Should not need repainting for years.The factory finished stuff is garanteed for 15 years for the paint.http://www.hardie.com/homeowner/prodhome/colorplus.phpAnd here is there recommendation for painting.http://www.hardie.com/homeowner/prodhome/colorplus.php
Certa-Pro is not a painting company.
Here is what the franchising company says.
http://www.tfdc.com/certa_index.html
"erta ProPainters. They are not painters. They are talented entrepreneurs who manage a complex business. With a Certa ProPainters franchise, the leader in residential and commercial painting, you can use your management skills and our proven system to quickly add up profits in the 100 billion dollar painting industry. You'll benefit from our ongoing support, from professional training to a comprehensive marketing plan, ensuring that you will generate business, and profits, fast!.
At Certa ProPainters, our goal is to make our franchisees experts in the painting industry, not expert painters. Certa ProPainters teaches you how to operate and manage a superior painting operation that will do nothing but rise to the top in your community, and you’ll never paint! You’ll learn all the ins and outs of the business, from how to estimate projects to finding, training and managing skilled employees."
Not saying that they won't do a good job, just don't buy on the name.
Also if it is fiber cement siding it should not need repainting for another 25 years or soming this seriously wrong.
Call your local Ben Moore store and ask them to give you the name of the three best contractors they know to do quality work.
same would apply to SW or Porter or.....
I just prefer Benjamin Moore myself
nuke....
i'd mosey into a SW or BenMoore paint store and talk to them about your trim and your hardiplank..
then i'd ask them for contractors recommendations..
they'll have favorites, but they are interested in you getting a good job and having a good experience
they will also have a list of the Painters and Decorators contracotrs mentioned above.
these kind of stores are where the good contractors buy their paintMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
CAG & Mike, I must be brain dead for not even thinking of going into those stores (been in them before, too) and asking them on getting recommendations for some professionals. Jeez, you would think I was an old fart in my waning years in this aspect of being brain-dead.
I did venture onto the hardie website last night. I didn't know that their product also comes from the factory painted (option) as well as primered. I wasn't present, though, when my house went up and I honestly think it wasn't factory painted judging by the other homes and watching them go up.
Ok, now I have something to do this morning after dragging a cat to the vet for some abuse.
The contractor I hired was referred by the local SW store. I talked to three different contractors they referred. I guess I need to head up there and discuss the peeling issue I am having with the drip cap.Tom
Douglasville, GA
Paint it yourself. Then you'll be sure you're getting what you pay for. Good therapy too.
Dan, not an option. While I like heights (junky for the free-fall stuff) I've decided at pushing 40 next month I did not want to seek the 14th fracture. Being that I've already broken both legs in my first 40-years of existence, I thinkmI am prepared for someone else to break themselves before me. :)
Just so no one thinks I am cheap, I am more than prepared to pay $6K for the job. I was reflecting on this last night while talking to a friend and if the environment and products used in combination are going to get, say 7-10 years out of a good paint job then more brick may have been an economical choice in the long run for those looking for a place to keep long-term. I'll have to keep this in mind on my next home.
It seems that the $6K quote was for Porters best (but not newest) product, but with the option to use their newest product (at almost double the material cost). Not sure if this is Acri-Shield product (I think that's it). The individual taking measurements this morning is also using Acri-Shield from Porter. Its nice that they afford the option.
I've got to go out this morning before going into the office but I will stop by the SW shop and look for painters worth recommendation, too. Anyone remember what the SW product-equivalent is that competes with Porter's Acri-Shield?
You don't need to work from a ladder. $6K will rent a lot of scaffolding. Not perfectly safe, but good enough to satisfy this acrophobic post-polio patient.(And, with your record, anyone you hire you need to make darn sure they have complete insurance.)Re paint, generally you will have good results with paints from BM or SW. Porter has had its ups and downs -- don't know where it is now.Keep in mind that on a job like this it's 90% prep and 10% painting. All the peeling (and almost peeling) paint must be scraped off, the areas sanded, and new primer applied. Before caulking, the old caulk must be dug out and the edges of the opening may need to be primed. It's a heck of a lot more than just pressure washing.
Dan, I bet the prep aspect of the job is probably the biggest factor in the overall quote. Those that spend twice as much time as the next contractor has probably double the labor costs, right?
Anyway, another quote came in based on the pictures I had sent him: mid-$3K using Acri-Shield from Porter. He mentioned two things that got my attention: amount of paint and the cost between the Acri-Shield and Porter's newest long-life paint. First, he estimated (by photographs alone) he'll need 18-20 gallons. He didn't denote this was for both a flat (for the siding) and semi-gloss (for the trimwork). I'll need to investigate that further. Second, he said that Porter's newest long-life product was about twice the cost of the Acri-Shield, and that would be about $35/gallon.
I suppose I could call a Porter dealer and see, but he will be issuing quotes for the option of using Acri-Shield (std job) or Porter's best product. I presume that most time is spent painting by brush windows & doors with real sashwork (sp) then spraying the large sidings. My next home may have half the windows, lol.
Curious what the accepted business practice is for payment? I've only been informed by one contractor (maybe who's focus is commercial work) that no money up-front until the job is done and I am satisfied. I really do not know what to expect as an industry accepted practice. Suggestions or enlightment?
First quote was pressuring washing, caulcking where needed, and repaint with unknown paint for $2550.
Second quote was pressuring washing, maximizing surface reprep (recaulking everything), and repait with Acri-Shield, plus the deck pressuring washing and varnishing for $5710.
Third quote was pressuring washing, caulking where needed, and repait with Acri-Shield for $3200. Deck option is $500 (pressuring washing and varnishing). Porter Permanizer paint option is $400 (presume this based on the 18-20 gallon requirement).
Waiting on Certa's estimate. I got one name & number from caling my nearest Porter Paint store, but he had nothing else--and based this info on their amount of business with them and not recommendations from homeowners.
I'm guessing that $2550 will most likely be the low and $5710 the high.
Can you believe I am replying to myself?
I called the person that did the first quote and he spec'd Duron Weathershield, but is willing to use whatever I want. He understands that I am looking for upgrades and suggested things like Porter Perminaizer and Sherwin-Williams Duration, and Duron's own Signature products. I think this will make it better to compare apples to apples.
It seems to me, given that the house is only 4 years old, there should be no need to repaint the siding at this time (assuming even a half-assed job was done in the first place). Better to just pay for the trim and caulking and wait 6-8 years to do the siding.
nuke.. never heard of Porters.. my painters like the SW "Duration"
the tell is the references from your biddersMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Dan, I had thought about this. I have said to friends I thought the Hardiplank look like it was a little dirty, but the condition of the paint was not telling me: "I need paint". I honestly did not think that this was even an option from a business sense. I take it painters would paint just the non-Hardiplank? There is a lot of non-Hardiplank surfaces to paint (bay window, two-story porch, two-dozen windows, a lot of ledger and corner boards, eaves, the upstairs porch's outdoor ceiling, etc.), which I'd think actually would consume a lot of the labor. Am I crazy for considering this task myself?
Mike (Smith) I had not heard of Poert Paints until I bought this home and there was a dealer no the main drage to the Interstate along what use to be a dead road (until all the subdivisions popped up). They have a website and they are listed on JamesHardie's website for paint specifications. I'm certain not loyal here as I have zero experience with them (SW, yes, everything else no).
From a business point of view I'm sure painters prefer to bid the whole job, get a markup on several cases of paint, and effectively spread the labor-intensive scraping work over the whole job, so that you seem to be getting more bang for the buck. It also makes the bid less risky, since the prep work is so hard to estimate, and "diluting" it with the rest of the work "smooths" things out.Whether painters will want to bid just the trim or not, I don't know. And there is the problem that some touch-up of the Hardi will be needed, and even if an exact match is found there will be some visible difference for about a year until the sheen wears off the fresh paint. But if it was my house I'd probably delay the complete repaint if I could match the old paint OK.
I think I will stick with the original intent: a complete job.
Be sure to get a good feel for the job the painters will do on the prep work, since that's the bigger part of the job, but also the easiest part to short-change you on.
Then there's one of the worst painting stories I have, and I wouldn't have believed it had I not seen it through my wife's eyes.
She was visiting a friend who was having the exterior of her house painted.
Painter showed up with a bunch of gallon and quart paint cans...all different colors, sheens, a mix of interior/exterior, some latex, some alkyd.
He gets the returns at Home Depot for a few $/gallon, mixes them together in s 5-gallon bucket, and uses them as his base coat.
The friend got pannicky and mentioned that this mish-mash of colors wasn't even in the same ballpark as the desired color. His reply:
That's okay, because for the final coat he'll mix the returned gallons in a 5-gallon bucket at the paint counter in Home Depot and then he gets them to add pigment to match the desired topcoat color.
When asked about mixing interior and exterior, latex and oil, his reply:
"Paint is paint."
He didn't get to paint that house.
This was in Lilburn, GA.
At least it would all be one color when he was done.About 30 years ago I was in Sault Ste. Marie area for a day or two. At the time one of the most depressed looking areas that I had seen.Anyway we come across this house out in the country that was at a intersection and we got se see it well.It was painted with would ever return/reject paint that they could get. One gallon of red and when that was done one gallon of blue and when that was done one gallon or orange.IIRC correct the gable end walls had 4 different colors and the front had at least 6.
Nuke,
You've gotten some pretty good advice. Best way to find a good painter, often even better than word-of-mouth by neightbors, is by doing what others have recommended...asking for a few references at a local paint shop that tells top-quality paint.
My paint shop guy can tell me who works, cheap, who is priciest, who does the best work, okay work, and who's jobs look like Jackson Pollack was let loose on the house.
Price does not always equate with quality.
Painting is fairly easy, it the prep work that's a pain. Ask each guy what prep type of prep work they think your house needs. Some might blow it off, others will go into detail.
A good painter will also be open to using the paint you want him to use, but realize that it may cost you a few bucks extra, or he may ask you to buy it. Reason? Painters usually get a discount off each gallon at their local shop. He may not get that discount if you make him buy through a different shop. That said, if you ask him to buy and put on the cheap stuff, a good painter will refuse.
Edit: fogot to add...a power washer in the wrong hands cen do more damage than good. It's quite easy to drive paint between and behind the claps, or to damage wood with too sharp a nozzle. After washing, make sure they let the house dry out well before they start painting.
Edited 3/19/2005 10:33 am ET by Mongo
I actually had one painter here in GA tell me that he like to paint within a day or two of pressure washing since it won't be completely dried out that the latex paint will adhere better. He also mentioned that his primer and his paint is "all in one". Scraping and sanding wasn't even considered, the pressure washing would remove anything that was loose. I passed on that one.Tom
Douglasville, GA
It often is a good idea to wet down the surface a few hours before doing latex -- will slow drying and improve adhesion. At the very least, don't paint in the sun if you can avoid it, and avoid painting a "recently shaded" surface that's still warm.
Primer is definitely needed on any bare exterior wood, and a lot of composite surfaces. Otherwise you'll have the situation of the OP with paint peeling in a few years.
Yeah, high-pressure power washing shouldn't be needed in the case at hand -- just enough pressure to wash the dirt off. A regular hose with a decent nozzle is sufficient for lower floors.
I took the forum's advice and visited two of the four intended paint shops. The third is out of the way and I may wait until tomorrow or late this afternoon, and the forth closed shop and the second nearest location could bare give me one name and based it only on volume sales.
I went to a Duron shop this morning and they refused to 'recommend' someone, stating that they did not wish to be liable. I guess I can understand that, so I ask if he could give me contact info on someone that does a fair amount of business on their Signature exterior product (and that may second with WeatherShield). He gave me two names & numbers and said he wasn't sure if they were even current.
I then went to my favorite Sherwin-Williams store. I've done business with them before. I learned last Spring they owned Minwax, and learned today that last year they bought Duron. Surprisingly, they had no problem recommending three different contractors that use their Superpaint and Duration paints in normal practice. Terrific! In fact, they said that two of the three they've done considerable business with and would have them paint their own homes. I'll try to give these folks a call this afternoon, Monday if I don't reach them today.
Curious about Benjamin Moore. I noticed yesterday that JamesHardie isn't explicit about a BM product, and directs homeowners to BM for any information on products. Then today someone said the BM products are more exensive, both in general and in comparable prodcts to their own. Had anyone found this to be true?
Also, the shop manager at the SW store admitted that the WeatherShield Duron product was as good as their own SuperPaint and might be actually better--possably sitting between SW's own SuperPaint and Duration. I can respect someone for admitting the other guy's product is good.
How long should the house be allowed to dry after a pressure/power-washing? Also, how long should a washed house be allowed to drive if mother-nature spits on my house?
I have an emotional attachment to BM products, though mostly because they have the best paint shop locally. Most times I've seen a comparison their products were rated at least as good as SW, though both Cos have had an occasional clunker.
SW seems to sell a wider price range of paints, while BM sticks the narrower high end, from my observations. And at least at my BM dealer you get better, more knowledgable customer service than at the SW dealer (though the SW dealer isn't bad).
Re drying time, for latex/acrylic the surface should be at the point where most visible dampness is gone. If there are a few spots where you can just tell that the surface isn't 100% dry then that's about perfect.
But of course for oil, or an alkyd primer, the surface needs to be totally dry. But how long that takes depends on the weather. Hot, sunny weather will dry do the job after a rain or low-pressure wash in a few hours. High-pressure washing, or cool, cloudy, humid weather can take much longer.
Re Porter, I know there's been a Porter Paints store on Hurstborne Lane in Louisville KY for at least 40 years. It's an old and established brand, but I have heard (though cannot confirm) that the brand was passed around a bit, so can't vouch for their quality.
" I know there's been a Porter Paints store on Hurstborne Lane in Louisville KY for at least 40 years"I don't think that it has been quiet 40 years, but maybe.Actually Porter Paint is based in Lousiville, and is now owned by PPG.And down south of the I-64 interchange there where paint test panels. Now those have been there for at least 50 years when it used to on the access road to the Texas Gas Compressor station.I don't remember if they are still there or not, but for years there used to be some in the industrial park. Lousiville also has several other paint related companies. Rohm and Haas is one. They make a lot of feed stock.Dave Richardson used to work for one of them.
I used to ride my bike to the far end of Hurstborne, back before 64 went in. The PP shop was there then, IIRC.
Ok, got another quote. $5K for the house (not including the deck) using all SW products (Superpaint and elastomer caulking). This includes not just the side, trim, windows and door, but also the shutters and chim. cap and gutters. I asked about the deck option and chemically cleans and pressure-washed before using a product called TMP would be about $600-650.
We got to talking about the current wave of Latino influx in this area and when I moved to Atlanta I could see non-Latin subcontractors, but now I have only seen one (the plumber), and a Mexican painter was actually visible down the street. I then reflected that his quote was not the highest nor lowest, then I paused, and corrected myself saying that the highest $5710 (I let him know) included the deck.
Now, I was not consciously trying to talk him down on price. I cannot say if I was trying to do just that subconsciously, but he turned around and admitted he knew that painter, subs out all work and said while they are doing good work he would do the house and deck for $5K. No money up front. After talking with him for 45-60 minutes I have to say between SW's recommendation and personal opinion, I was fairly impressed with him.
While my community is a $250K-300K of homes, he is also painting over in a $500-600K community around the corner and invited me to have a lok. He's also willing to furnish previous work references as well, is insured, etc. So, what do you think? I original estimate not including the deck and well before getting quotes was $4000-4500. $5K doesn't seem out of line, or does it?
nuke .. stop beating this
he offered some references.. take him up on it.. then make your decisionMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike, I do not think I am doing anything out of the ordinary for a first-time homeowner that is hiring a trade observed to be greatly abused in his market. I need that warm and fuzzy feeling to get around the carpetbagger painter syndrome.
Just be 100% sure about the insurance.
Deciding between two contractors:
Ok, I come down to two paint contractors that own their own businesses, been at it for at least a decade, are insured, bonded, with references, use Sherwin-Williams products (paint, caulking, staining, etc.), etc., etc., etc. and neither one appearing to be a fly-by-night Latino consortium that I typically see the track-builders using in my area.
Both come recommended, one my my good neighbor (who unfortunately just moved to Chicago--and will be missed) and the other by SW themselves. The bids are off by $1500 with the lower bid using Duration and the higher bid using Superpaint. So, how does one flip a coin, here? The higher bidder already lowered his price by $650.