Replies

1. 
   BillHartmann | Jan 25, 2009 04:43pm | #1

   My experience with oil burners is over 35 years old. So while waiting for some one with more experience to come along check this.

   Watch the cycle.

   It should start with the high voltage spark and the motor running and pumping oil. I had a coupling fail on mine.

   Then it will fire. And then there is a "fire eye" that senses the flame. It used to be a photocell. So the unit fires, but then safeties out check that fire eye. It might be dirty.

   .
   William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
2. 
   EricPaulson | Jan 25, 2009 04:44pm | #2

   You are out of oil, you have lost prime on the pump, your filtr or nozzle is clogged, your pump is broke.

   Can you open a bleeder screw on the pump, push the reset and see if you get oil.

   Sometimes you need to shut the breaker to let the reset,reset.

    

3. 
   HootOwl | Jan 25, 2009 07:58pm | #3

   Power-vented oil burner, huh?  I haven't seen one of those around here yet, but.....

   All power-vented units require that the fan and exhaust flow prove themselves to the control unit before any firing can commence.  This is usually proved via a vacuum switch up by that fan unit.  If there's something inside the exhaust flue (even a large spider web) or a backdraft from the wind blowing outside...the unit cannot prove itself.  These things must be checked out first before proceeding forward.

   Next, the exhaust "proving" switch itself may be malfunctioning. There are likely two spade connectors (with wires connected to them) on a round-ish metal unit right up on or by the flue-fan unit. You can try removing those and tying the ends together via a jumper wire or similar.  Before doing so, make sure your exhaust flue is indeed open cause if the unit fires....the exhaust gases must be expelled outta the house.  You are in effect bypassing this safety device so be sure all is okay with the flue before you do.  If this causes the unit to fire, you likely need a new switch.

   Where are your tanks and how cold is it?  If outside.....is the fuel straight #2 or a blend of #1 & #2?  If it's really cold (say 0F or below) straight #2 will gel in the lines. If this is the case, you need to warm the line and once warmed up sufficiently...... the pump should be able to pull fuel again. Or you may also have to bleed the line at the pump.  Depends.  You can use a heat tape or hang a heat lamp over the outdoor line to warm it and keep it warm.

   Or as already mentioned.......you might be out of fuel or could have a clogged in-line filter.

   Nozzle might be plugged or throwing a really outta whack pattern (that doesn't ignite), ignitor electrodes might be worn back requiring replacement (no spark), ignition transformer might be shot (no spark), cad-cell might be dirty or malfunctioning. ...amongst other things.  If you have no experience with these things....now is not likely a good time to dive in, particularly so if there is an oil furnace tech you can call.

   If you don't even hear the pump motor run in an attempt to fire the furnace, then the problem is likely related to your forced vent. 

    If you do hear the pump motor run, but there is no ignition.....check out your fuel supply to the pump first. (Open the small bleeder screw on the pump to verify that fuel is both present & flowing.  MAKE SURE !! that power to furnace is turned off when you do this.) If no fuel, determine why and remedy. 

   If pump motor runs & there is a free flow of fuel available, but no ignition takes place.........call your tech guy this time. 

   Another thought - Do you also happen to have a "heat-saver" unit installed in the exhaust flue?  This is a powered damper that closes when the unit is not firing and opens when there is a call for heat. If so, the main power to the furnace controls will be routed thru this device so that the furnace cannot fire before/unless the device has opened the exhaust flue. If this device is malfunctioning or the wiring to it has become detached or damaged.....it may be the problem.  Impossible to say from here.

   Gravity feed fuel supply from tank to furnace or is there an in-line fuel pump involved? (long distance or underground tank)  If a pump....can you hear it run when there's a call for heat?

   
   

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   Edited 1/25/2009 12:37 pm ET by HootOwl

4. 
   renosteinke | Jan 25, 2009 11:34pm | #4

   You probably have a 'stack controller' in the ducting, that the thermostat leads run to. It is possible that the solenoid within is no longer holding .... a replacement stack controller will cost you a few hundred $$$$. It's an easy thing to change, but pricey.

   One thing to watch out for: the existing unit may be "wired backwards," with the disconnect switch on the neutral side of the line. With old Knob & Tube wiring, this often happened. The result is ... eeven with the power 'off' everything is still live. Doublecheck!

1. 
   HootOwl | Jan 26, 2009 12:36am | #5

   True enough.  Shouldn't have assumed a "newer" unit with cad-cell. 

   Might also be that the stack relay just needs to be reset with the internal steeping lever, rather than reset by button. 

5. 
   HootOwl | Jan 26, 2009 12:38am | #6

   If you do have a stack relay switch, you could try resetting it internally.  Easy enough to do and might be the problem.  You'll find a guide to that here - http://www.inspect-ny.com/heat/StackRelaySwitch.htm

   When you pull it back and release.........do the release very slowly.....as in...more like allowing it to return "home" very slowly with your finger(s) still on it. 

   
   

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   Edited 1/25/2009 4:47 pm ET by HootOwl

6. 
   losh | Jan 28, 2009 03:41am | #7

   Any chance your vent on the outside of the house is covered by snow or otherwise obstructed?