We have about 400 sq.ft. of tin ceiling to install in a kitchen.
Panels are 2’x4′ with a 6″ pattern.
The edges of the panels are just cut plain, no hem or interlock or anything.
They came with “coneheaded” nails.
Boss wants to put up plywood on the joists for nailing.
Do we drill for nails?
how many nails per panel?
do the panels over lap?
How do we cut and/or drill, at edges and holes for lights?
The panels are unfinished>>>Prime first? spray?
Help!!!??!!!
Mr T (not for tin(yet))
I made a wooden whistle
but it wooden whistle
I made a steel whistle
but it steel wooden whistle
I made a lead whistle
but it steel wooden lead me whistle
I made a tin whistle
NOW I tin whisle!!!
Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
Replies
You could call the manufacturer and see if they have an installation guide if they are new, I've never installed a tin ceiling so this advice may not be valid but I would at least prime them before installing and possibly paint first and touch up after, just seems like it would be easier then trying to paint them all while they are on the ground?
Again, never done it before so take this as just a suggestion
Plywood is good. Try using an area of the embossed pattern as a nailing location,ie. center of a circle,etc. Seems to me spacing required on the last one I did was about 6" or 8" on edges, and half that in the field. Should be some recomendation from the manufacturer.
Brudoggie
I've put up two tin ceilings, but it was about 15 years ago, so I'll limit comments to what is remembered. The better the backing, the easier the installation. I simply can't remember if we overlapped panels or not, but imagine the buildup where 4 corners would meet...that seems awkward. One install we had two of us hold and nail. On the other I worked alone and had to make a jig to support the tin while I nailed. I lay the tin on rigid foam board cut 6" smaller than the tin, and then supported that with a T brace. That was a WHOLE lot easier than two of us trying to support the floppy 6' x 2' tin. Plenty of room to nail in the grooves forming the pattern, probably every 6" both ways, assuming you get the sheet real flat with no humps. Hammer carefully...it's easy to dent the stuff. And it's easy to slice a finger, too. Priming beforehand seems a whole lot easier...I was impatient to get it installed, and priming after was harder. Also, couldn't back-prime. If I recall, the tin had a residue that had to be cleaned off. But on this I defer to mfg instructions or people with more current memories.
Well, Boss actually did what I asked and got the install instructions from the manuf.
the styro idea sounds good!
My main concern now is cutting holes for Can-lights!
Boss suggested tinsnips. but I am leary of this being a Major pain!
It seems that with a plywood backing, a hole saw would be a good way.
Or maybe a jig saw with a circle jig.
How about (the lightbulb goes on over Wile E. Coyote's head) laying out and cutting the holes for the lights in the plywood and then using a Zip tool to cut the tin using the ply as a template!!
Obviously we will have to use remodelers cans in this application.
Any Brilliant ideas will be rewarded with milkbones an stiff drinks!!
Mr T
Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
I dont know the name of the tool exactly, but at lot of the HVAC guys out here have a speacial circle cutter that hooks up to a drill for cutting circles into duct work. If you know any HVAC guys you might ask them what its called, and if you could borrow it, or how much it cost. From what I have seen it cuts a very neat clean hole, works fast and is designed to cut metal.
Now that you mention it I know what your talking about.
But I aint gonna borrow one!
The boss is gonna buy me one, only he don't know it!
any excuse to get a new tool.
TDo not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
Glad I could help, good luck
So what did the instructions say was the propper way to nail?