I’m getting ready to rough in the electrical for my 1500′ single-story remodel. Everything is being replaced and the SEP and meter base will have a new location. Note: I’ll also be providing structured wiring in this remodel (Cat 6 and a/v to every room in the house).
Can you guys offer any tips on how to do the most “efficient” rough-in without violating code or compromising safety? I’d like to pull the least amount of wire possible. The house is total electric with the exception of a tankless water heater which will be gas.
I’d appreciate any advice.
New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
Replies
One tip is to have multiple spools of wire set up on a wire caddy. Feed from the main panel or the AV panel to the termination point.
Keep the Cat 6/AV stuff in a seperate bay from the line voltage stuff.
And be sure to label both ends of the wires so that you know which is which!
Some efficient method to pay out the wire from the spool,
right angle drill to go thru studs and plates,
several different color sharpies and if possible the same colors of electrical tape
Klein stripper with the contoured cutting areas to cut thru the plastic jacket on both 12 and 14 gauge Romex without cutting thru the insulation on the copper conductors
One of those offset or dog-leg screwdrivers in both slotted and phillips.
well organized but small pouch or apron with pliers, wire nuts, screwdrivers etc. when connecting receptacles and fixtures.
small step stool or step ladder that just allows the right height for ceilings
I won't try to recommend anything for the high voltage wiring but if 2 coax and Cat 6 are needed, look into bundled cabling. Otherwise, if you won't be using all of the low voltage locations in all rooms (and it's not likely that you will), consider running the blue flexible tubing so it can be pulled in later. This not only saves you from running wires that you may never use but it keeps you from being obsolete (the wiring, not you personally). If you can't find Cat 6 for a small difference in price from Cat 5e, consider using Cat 5e, since it's rated to 350 MHz at 200' (actually 185' but who's counting?) and unless you really need higher speed, most routers/modems/switches, etc run at 100 MHz.
Central location for the low voltage panel, make it easy to replace anything that goes bad, is damaged or needs upgrading.
I've always felt that trying to "pull the smallest amount of wire possible" is penny wise and pound foolish. Be generous with the wire - it may make your life simpler later...
Brooks
Make up a drawing first. Locate all the outlets, switches, and fixtures, and figure out how you'll loop the wire between them. Double-check the drawing before you start, to make sure there's a route for the wire where you drew it.
Focusing on the amount of wire used is a sure path to a poor install.
First ... decide what you want. That's the end result that counts.
Next ... Plan your work. Then work your plan.
Consider placing several 'sub-panels' throughout the house. This is a 'win-win' ... easier wire runs, and more 'user-friendly' at the finish.
Finally, start at the margins, and work your way back to the panel.
But using lots of wire and several subpanels just guarantees a more expensive, complex, and failure-prone system, not a better one.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
if you save all the wire you can, cut it tight so when you have to move a box or replace a switch there is no slack. The question is, are you going to return a partial roll of wire.
"The question is, are you going to return a partial roll of wire."
When I say that I want to wire "efficiently", I'm not talking about the cost as much as simply the idea of working "smarter". For instance, isn't it possible in some cases to pull a single 12/3 cable and share the neutral as opposed to pulling two 12/2 cables? Or using end-of-the-run switching for some circuits as opposed to middle-of-the-run switching. These are the kind of strategies that I'd like to learn more about.New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
Yes, you can pull a 12/3 in place of two 12/2 cables under some circumstances. You need a good understanding of those circumstances, though, not just a quick checklist.
Re switches, if you have multiple lights you always want the switch leg (if you don't wire through the switch first) to come off the first light in the string. Otherwise you end up needing an extra wire.
3-way switches are a special case that requires careful pre-planning.
This is where the diagram comes in. A lot easier to get it right if you diagram it vs doing it off the top of your head.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
some cases to pull a single 12/3 cable and share the neutral as opposed to pulling two 12/2 cables? yes but if not done right that netrual will have 240 volts on it. plus 12/3 is not cheap compare to two 12/2 and you have all the extra wire in the boxes.
I have a preference for conduit, always have, so NM is anathema to me, but..
I would suggest that you strive to keep your circuit feeds (homeruns) accessible either in the basement / crawl / or attic.
from those, run your receps and switches using single cables and strive to NOT loop or daisy chain through the studs between devices.
picture a tree with its trunk and many individual branches
not the cheapest method, in time or material....but will save you aggravation years from now when you want to change things around again., or have to troubleshoot ..and you lost your print or your mind.
OR learn how to run conduit...!
the suggestions about making a drawing and marking the cables with Sharpies© and / or phasing tape are very good too
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, wer ist jetzt der Idiot ?
Have you ever wired a house that way??
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
No, like I said, I have only piped which almost always gets installed as a loop ...just the opposite of Romex.. why?.
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., wer ist jetzt der Idiot ?
Because when you add up all the wires from home running everything you need an addition to the house.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I was thinking only about adding more j-boxes for each circuit so he could just branch out from those either in the attic or up from below.
it probably wouldn't work for everything ,but it sure is better than trying to repair concealed damage wires in looped runs...but it would need quite a bit more wire..
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., wer ist jetzt der Idiot ?
Yeah, that's the way it's often done with conduit, but with romex you end up with more connections, and the connections are where the trouble can occur.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
well then I'll stick with pipe.........I'd be lost without a raceway
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., wer ist jetzt der Idiot ?
Edited 5/26/2007 6:08 pm by maddog3