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I’m considering using TJI type joists for several new houses we’re starting this summer. The houses will sell in the $150,000 to $175,000 range and will average 1500 sf. Does anybody know if there is a real cost advantages in using them? I’ve used them on custom jobs and some higher end spec homes, but never on low cost houses. I know that they’re great to work with, but can you save any money?
Any Thougts?
Thanks
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Replies
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Mark,
We just finished framing a house with 2x12 floor joists. They cost $25.95 for 16' and $35.79 for 20' joists. At 2 every 16" the price got real high real quick. The 20' were worse at 2 per foot not to mention the doubles and triples the plan called for. I can't help but think TJI's would be cheaper, but some home buyers here are still skeptical about them.
I would cost them out and see what the difference is. Besides where can you get dimentional lumber with a warranty.
*I am about to build and will probably use TJI joists. My supplier says that all things considered the cost is close to the same. He says you can use longer spans and eliminate some of the piers (???). They come to him in 46' lengths and they cut them to the lengths you need, so typically you don't have any joist splices at the beams. I'm going to use quite a bit of ceramic tile -- I can't imagine how a 2x floor would be stiff enough for that. They have software and you take in your plan and they plan the floor both ways and do take-offs for both. So it should be an easy decision. I understand they are real time savers, but maybe not the first time you use them????.
*In allmost every case I have found TJI's to be cheaper especially with spans over 12' if you include labor. Even more of a savings if you have to return much twisted 2X stock. Going with 24" o.c. where the loads allow helps too. A deep joist at 24" is usually cheaper than shallower joists at 16" o.c. I allways glue the sheathing.Ron
*I have used TJI's in the past and have really enjoyed using them, upfront they are about 10-15% more than 2x lumber, but they do go in alot quicker using 19.3" centers. And most of all you cant beat the consistency of engineered lumber, TJI's make for a beautiful subfloor.
*I recently had a discussion with my local Fire Marshal regarding lightweight steel framing vs 2x stock for a commercial building I'm working on. He didn't seem too opioninated(sp) one way or the other. However he did say, those wood I-beams burn clean thru in 5-minutes.
*That's why we cover framing with sheetrock. My cousin, a fire department captain, says all the houses that he's seen go up quickly and most where it got into the structural members had a defect in the sheetrock envelope (hole to the attic, unrated light fixture, incomplete remodel, etc.) If the sheetrock is continuous, the fire stays in one room for a long time.That said, you make a good point that if the fire gets into the framing, a TJI will collapse long before a 2x12. But wouldn't the occupants be dead of smoke inhalation by then? I believe it is a bigger issue in high-rise construction - unburned floors above may collapse due to structural failures below. That's why steel beams have that spray-on insulation - to buy some more time before they get too hot and fail. Back on thread, I'd point out from the plumbers perspective that piping goes into TJIs a lot easier. Real quick to drill through 5/8" of OSB web and very large holes allowed just a few feet away from the supports - like 5 and 6 inch diameter. Also the manufacturers provide easy to use tables for where and how big those holes can be. Helps you do it right and show the inspector that's it's okay. -David
*TJIs are better than dimensional lumber. I would be surprised if anyone disputed that claim. They are stronger, straighter, more stable, and easier to work with. If you want to build as good a building as you can, and the cost is even close, use them. - yb
*We build either way but for short spans will use 2x.A few concerns (in our area)1) if you cut into the top of one at all and the inspector sees it he can make you trash the whole TJI.2)They do have a little more bounce even though we glue and screw so if you are still planning and a long span calls for 91/2 TJI at 19.2 then shift them to 16 inch or go to a bigger TJI.3) If not installed corectly in the hanger they will make more noise then a 2x not inztalled corredctly.ALso there was a thread a few weeks back about them collapsing under load when running parallel to a load bearing wall and having something heavy on them like a piano so you might want to look through the archives.On the positive they are a lot straighter and easier to work with then the poor quality 2x12 we see these days.
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On one hand I agree that TJI's or BCI's are considerably better than dimensional lumber. With rated spans and labor savings, 9 times out of 10 you will come out ahead....However I'm surprised nobody has mentioned Space Joists. Although more expensive than TJI's, you can increase to 24" oc and 10 times quicker to install. Check your local Truss manufacturer for availabilty and pricing.
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I'm considering using TJI type joists for several new houses we're starting this summer. The houses will sell in the $150,000 to $175,000 range and will average 1500 sf. Does anybody know if there is a real cost advantages in using them? I've used them on custom jobs and some higher end spec homes, but never on low cost houses. I know that they're great to work with, but can you save any money?
Any Thougts?
Thanks