I am installing new siding and all new doors & windows on my 1963 mid-century modern home.
My question: Is it necessary or desirable to add sheathing, house wrap, etc. where none currently exists? or is this just over-kill?
The current siding is 1/2 inch 4X8 panels over building paper but no sheathing.
Half of the home has a flat roof with no overhang and this is the area of critical concern.The lack of overhang also presents some spacing issues with respect to integrating sheathing plus siding with the roof/parapet flashing.I cannot disturb the flashing since it is integral to the spray polyurethane roof but there is room to add 5/8 sheathing and 5/8 siding.
Additionally, I ordered new-construction windows with nail fins and in the absence of sheathing I am uncertain how to properly flash the windows
The replacement siding is will also be 4X8 panels but I still haven’t decided whether to use wood or Certainteed Fiber Cement panels so any advice or opinions on this product are welcome as well.
Thanks in advance,
Paul
Replies
Paul C,
Your current siding doubles as the sheathing, in my opinion. It is a really cheap way to build, but surprisingly common. You will be better off resheathing, flashing for the windows, set them, then paper and siding over the new sheathing.
I think the fiber cement is superior to wood panel products.
Bill
Edited 7/30/2007 1:34 am by BillBrennen
Paul,
where are you located? Knowledge of your climate will help us help you.
You say there's "building paper" over the studs, do you mean "building paper" or asphalt/tar paper?
If you have building paper just use the existing siding as sheathing, install Vycor/flashing at the windows/doors, then use a rain screen product (Benjamin Obdyke is one brand) which incoporates the weather barrier with the rain screen, or use tar paper as weather barrier and a separate rainscreen product (also from B.O.)
Geoff
Geoff,I'm located in Oakland, CA. so rain is the primary weather issue.The building paper feels like 15lb. tar paper. I should also mention this house has a ton of glass and is drafty. New windows should help immensely but I'd like to tighten up the building envelope as much as possible. Some of the existing siding is warped, delaminating, peeling paint, etc..Plus removing it will give me an opportunity to install some foundation bolts which could be nice to have in earthquake country.I'm definitely leaning towards fiber cement which may make sheathing a requirement since it's my understanding that fiber cement alone might not meet shear reqs. I really want to follow best practices here since I'm planning on being in this house for many years to come. ( Ideally,feet first in 40-50 years)Thanks again for any and all advice
You will almost certainly need a building permit for your project and, being in our west coast seismic zone, you will have to sheath the structure and very likely retrofit your foundation with seismic hold downs in addition to anchor bolts.
You also mention a lot of existing windows so, depending on their size and location, you may have to install steel strapping and/or steel corner braces in the RO's.
It's all do-able, but be prepared for the extra structural work. In the long run, you will have a solid crib.
You might be advised to visit your local building permits office and consult with one of the structural inspectors about what's ahead of you. Ultimately, you may need the services of a structural engineer....especially with the window layout and any potential foundation issues.
In the last 10 years, the seismic codes have really been ramped up out here.
It sounds like you are in a seismicc zone and need the walls to be shear walls.
The urrent siding IS your sheathing and contributes to that strength, but iot is failing if it is delaminating, so it should be replaced before residing. It might be pssible to run sheathing over the existing and use structural screws to attach it.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
We're in pretty much the same seismic zone as Paul C, and I've added 1/2 plywood to walls nailed every 10" any chance I get, even if they're not shear walls.
This is my chance to ask a question that's been burning in my mind for the last couple of days! Whenever I drive by a new construction site and see that they've wrapped the house with Wafer Board, I ask myself WHY? Is there any structural advantage to putting this cr*p on? I've seen it used for subfloor before, and it self-destructs the second water hits it.
It's cheap.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I'll pay the extra 2 bucks a sheet.
You get what you pay for.
You pay for what you get. You don't necessarily get what you pay for.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
"You pay for what you get. You don't necessarily get what you pay for"
That pithy little aphorism should be printed on the bottom of all invoices.
I didn't even know anybody still made waferboard! That was first generation, then OSB, then advantec
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Where is this house?