toe kick heaters – diverter tees?
bob55
| Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on
I’m installing hot water heat using a loop system all baseboards on a continuous loop -3/4″ pex for heating with a toe kick heater in the loop 1/2 ” inlet/outlet. question should i use simple elbows & run the heat in/out or should i use diverter tees ( mono flo tees) I’vehad two different opinions
1 not necessary and often has problems bleeding the system
2 cut down on the heat of the baseboard after the toe kick.
need help
Replies
Inserting a device with a stopped down piping system in it is like inserting a ball valve that is partially closed in the loop.
It depends on a lot of things along the zone, but generally that is not a good idea in a situation like yours.
If accessible, you could always install a full port ball valve on the main line just after the first monoflo tee and shut it off if you want to force bleed the toe-kick once in awhile.
You could also install a manual bleeder on the unit if it doesn't already have one. Use a venting elbow at the unit.
Not a heating expert but I have worked on my hot water system for years.
Things to watch out for, I am assuming your useing fin tube when you say baseboard.
Size of the loop, generally no more than 75', I have heard is the max.
Any baseboard after the first will run @ a lower temp, and so on, so size according.
Trying to push water threw a toe kick heater with diverter tee's can be tricky, a toe kick has more resistance to flow than fintube. Water will seek the path of least restistance.
3/4" pex is a beast to work with, keep in mind 1/2" pex will carry 15,000 BTU's
Ever thought of running each baseboard/toe kick off from a manifold, using 1/2" pex to each baseboard????
Would have greater control of each room with flow valves to the baseboards.
Do your homework or you will end up with hot rooms and cold rooms on the end of the loop and no flow thru the toe kick.
Visit the wall on heatinghelp.com, they are just as helpfull as the guys here!!!