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toe kick saw or angle grinder?

hurnik | Posted in Construction Techniques on July 22, 2008 04:18am

I’ve gotta remove vinyl flooring that’s on top of 1/4″ luan, that’s on top of 2 layers of 3/4″ plywood. I’ve gotta remove the top layer of 3/4″ as well. And I cannot remove the cabinets (they have granite counter tops on them and I’m not going through that again).

I was going to go with a toe kick saw, but virtually everyone says they are EXTREMELY difficult and dangerous to work with (I guess they kick back very frequently?)

Would it be safer to use an angle grinder instead?

Cutting through the vinyl and luan isn’t that bad (hell a good utility knife would probably work), but the 3/4″ stuff is where I run into needing the saw. I have about a 7′ by 5′ area to cut out.

I know a chisel could be used, but that would take days (for me).

Reply

Replies

  1. JulianTracy | Jul 22, 2008 04:43am | #1

    Either a toe-kick saw or a Fein multi-master.

    A grinder won't work - it will not fit into the space and would have to be at least if not more scary in terms of kickback.

    I just picked up a toe-kick saw on CL for $50.

    Be a while for I need to use it and it needs a new blade. Takes two sizes of blades - a 3 3/8" one for 3/4" flooring or a 2 1/4" for 1/4"-3/8" flooring.

    Looks like the old Makita 3 3/8" size blades will work on it.

    Haven't heard of the kick back issue - good to know, but I'll bet it's just a matter of getting used to it and being careful as you go.

    It has a simple spring-loaded blade guard on it.

    You could also get a semi-aggressive long (12-15") recip saw blade. You'd be able to flex the blade to get a flush cut with the saw in front of the toe-kick.

    Julian

    JT

    1. ckorto | Jul 22, 2008 05:32am | #2

      I'd say no to the angle grinder.  Did 7 months infantry in Iraq ( Marines) without a scratch.  Came back and restarted my business.  Same exact job, put saw blade on my angle grinder.  Working fine,then, kickback, 13 stiches and a few days later I switched to a nice sharp chisel.  Go figure.

      Chisel worked just fine.

      I am interested in trying one of those Bosch saws next time though.

      Chuck

      Edited 7/21/2008 10:33 pm ET by ckorto

  2. KenHill3 | Jul 22, 2008 05:57am | #3

    Chisel will take forever. The Multimaster will take forever. I've had the most success with a 12" sawzall blade.



    Edited 7/21/2008 10:58 pm by kenhill3

    1. Jim_Allen | Jul 22, 2008 06:28am | #4

      I was thinking the same thing. Sawzall...long blade.

      I know I'd stick my special manly saw in there but I don't think I could accomplish the angle that would be needed. I'd probably trim as close as I could with the power saw, which would leave about 2". Then, I'd start chop, chop, chopping with the sharp framing chisel. The leftover 2" chunks would somewhat fly out when I split at them after a bit of chopping.

      How about a sharpened air chisel? Or a floor scraper after getting the plywood as close as possible.

      How bout running the saw up through the entire floor from the basement? I'll bet I've chopped through more stuff from the backside than most carpenters that I know.

        Bob's next test date: 12/10/07

      1. User avater
        JeffBuck | Jul 22, 2008 06:31am | #5

        How bout running the saw up through the entire floor from the basement?

         

        I learned that trick from by buddy Joe.

        shoulda done more of it ...

        completely forgot about that option!

         

        Jeff    Buck Construction

         Artistry In Carpentry

             Pittsburgh Pa

  3. sarison | Jul 22, 2008 02:37pm | #6

    I have a Bosch jamb saw that I use for trimming jambs and casing for flooring.  You would have to run it at a very low angle to get under the toe kick anyway so as long as you're gentle, kickback wouldn't be very unsafe.  The blades are similar to a metal cutting sawzall blade (fine teeth). 

  4. JTC1 | Jul 22, 2008 02:49pm | #7

    Flexing 12-15" sawzall blade.......

    Have you seen the bladeholder doodad that offsets the sawzall blade to the side of the tool?

    Can't remember the name of this attachment ----- about 6" long -- clamps into the normal blade clamp on the tool then makes a couple of 45's to move the blade left or right --- then another blade clamp at the end of the attachment to actually hold the blade.

    I have never used this attachment, but it sounds like it would help you with this cut.

    Jim 

    Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
    1. reinvent | Jul 22, 2008 03:08pm | #8

      You mean this:http://www.theflushcut.biz/index.htmlI asked folks here awhile back what they thought of them and the reviews were not favorable.

      1. JTC1 | Jul 22, 2008 03:35pm | #9

        That is it.

        I missed the reviews. Do you remember what the problem(s) was?

        JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

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