Replies

1. 
   ProDek | Mar 20, 2003 07:40pm | #1

   I'm confused???????? Your base molding should just butt into the jam moulding. is the base moulding w/quarter round thicker than the jam?

   Bob

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

   

1. 
   user-201280 | Mar 20, 2003 07:57pm | #2

   The quarter round is 1 inch at its thickest spot (the flat side), but the additional moulding at the base of the door posts is thicker, i.e., it sticks out from the wall further than the base moulding. So when I run the toe moulding along the base moulding and get to that joint between the "regular" base moulding and this decorative piece, the toe moulding end would stick out into the air a bit.

   But you raise an interesting point in that I hadn't considered a very much small toe moulding that would end flush at those additional pieces, but wouldn't a 1/4 or 3/8 toe moulding look a little odd?

   Thanks!

   M

1. 
   ProDek | Mar 20, 2003 08:44pm | #3

   Could you cut and add decorative block at the base of the door jam for the quarter round to butt into?

    Another acceptable but not so popular way would be to mark and cut the quarter round at a 45 degree so it butts into the old jam flush.Bob

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

1. 
   user-201280 | Mar 20, 2003 11:07pm | #4

   Good ideas... will see how they work.

   Thanks!

   Mario

2. 
   clampman2 | Mar 21, 2003 04:15am | #9

   Mario,

   Like Nick says, sounds like you need regular shoe molding. One inch thick quarterround is massive for what you are trying to do. If that only sticks proud of the plinths by a little bit, standard shoe would butt fine into them. Any architectural millwork shop will have shoe on hand.

   If you do run into areas(ie. wainscotted walls) where the shoe is proud, cut it back on a 45 as shown in the sketch attached by one of the previous posters. (I would mention his name, but I forgot it and will lose this if I go rummaging around) Sorry, previous poster.

   Clampman

1. 
   james | Mar 21, 2003 05:45am | #10

   mario

   go to s.f. victoriana, they have catalogs of all the mill works they make , in those catalogs they provide mock ups of how things go together, from looking at those mock ups you can pick which style you like best, those mock ups are set up in period style.

   james

   ps victoriana is in the bayshore area of town under 280, if you take oakdale from bayshore until you hit the freeway and turn left it is just around the corner.

1. 
   user-201280 | Mar 21, 2003 05:49pm | #11

   Thanks, James!! Great idea...

   M

2. 
   NickNukeEm | Mar 21, 2003 12:53am | #5

   It sounds to me like you need shoe molding.  It looks similar to quarter round, but is more oblong (higher).  Quarter round would work, but shoe molding was made for the purpose of bridging the gaps between baseboard and the floor.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 3/20/2003 5:55:19 PM ET by NickNuke'em

3. 
   fullpint | Mar 21, 2003 03:13am | #6

   IF I AM READING YOU RIGHT? THIS SOUNDS TO ME LIKE YOU ARE RUNNING YOUR MOULDING (BASE) INTO A PLINTH BLOCK , WHICH IS A RECTANGULAR BLOCK THAT YOUR CASING SITS ON ,  IT IS USUALLY HIGHER THAN YOUR BASE, ONE FOR LOOKS AND TWO SO THAT A CAP CAN BE INSTALLED IF DESIRED ON TOP OF  YOUR BASE.

   IF THIS IS THE CASE RUN YOUR  BASE INTO THE PLINTH BLOCK, IT WILL PROTRUDE ABOUT 3/4 PAST YOUR BASE THEN RUN YOUR SHOE INTO THE PLINTH AS WELL, IF IT PROTRUDES ( is proud) OF YOUR PLINTH, THEN BACK CUT THE SHOE  AROUND 22 degrees. THIS USUALLY WILL GIVE THE DESIRED LOOK.   DO NOT RETURN THE SHOE ON A MITER! 

1. 
   user-201280 | Mar 21, 2003 05:53pm | #13

   Thanks, Fullpint!

   I think if I use a thinner, true shoe moulding and make some of the end cuts all of you have suggested, then I'll have a nicely finished end to my problems with this small project.

   Thanks again!

   M

4. 
   Clay | Mar 21, 2003 03:37am | #7

   I believe that you are dealing with a plinth block at the bottom of your door casings.  In cases where the 1/4 round cannot butt into these without extending beyond the plinth block I normally solve the situation by making what I call a cheek cut.  The 1/4 round is first cut to length so that it can butt into the plinth block, then the1/4 round is cut back on a 45 degree angle away from the plinth but only such that the protruding area and maybe slightly more is cut away.  I have attached a quick sketch drawn looking down as if you were at the ceiling.

1. 
   fullpint | Mar 21, 2003 03:44am | #8

   YOU GOT IT ! 

2. 
   user-201280 | Mar 21, 2003 05:51pm | #12

   Thanks, Clay... that, in combination with some of the answers for the other folks, really solves my problem!

   You all are great!!

   Thanks!!

   M