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Discussion Forum

toilet flange bolts at 11″, support 12″?

| Posted in General Discussion on June 10, 2008 10:13am

I measured the bolts from the wall and they are at 11″. Will a toilet rated for 12″ closet flange bolt placement work? The bolts are not adjustable in the flange.

Thanks,

learner

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Replies

  1. rnsykes | Jun 10, 2008 10:22pm | #1

    it's possible that it'll fit, but why not just use a 10" rough in toilet instead? Unless the toilet is already bought.

    1. Learner | Jun 10, 2008 10:48pm | #2

      Good answer =)I was interested in the toto aquia dual flush which scores high on the map test and on the drain line carry test for low flow toilets. It only comes in a 12" configuration, afaik.Was hoping to avoid researching another toilet that might fit the 10" rough in. learner

      1. rnsykes | Jun 10, 2008 11:00pm | #3

        The toto's are nice. Do they have any dimensions on their website? I know Kohler and Sterling both make dual flush models as well.

        1. Learner | Jun 17, 2008 07:26pm | #18

          Sorry for the delay.Aquia¯ Dual Flush, 1.6 GPF / 0.9 GPF
          CST414Mis the toilet that I want to install. There are other dual flush manufacturers but then I'd have to do the research on how those specific toilets perform in the map and drain line carry tests.

          1. rnsykes | Jun 17, 2008 07:36pm | #23

            It looks like 11 3/4" is the absolute minimum. Thats with the unit touching the wall. The Kohler is even tighter. Sterling I'm sure is the same as Kohler. I'd look into either moving the drain, or changing the thickness/location of the wall behind the toilet. Or get a big shoe horn.

      2. dovetail97128 | Jun 11, 2008 08:15am | #10

        Not certain but I would recommend you visit the TOTO web site.
        They might have that model in 10" rough.
        They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.

        1. User avater
          Ted W. | Jun 11, 2008 03:18pm | #11

          Just curious, how did it get to 11"? I ask because if a plumber did that he should get back there and fix it.

          Otherwise, I'd install an offset flange rather than pay extra for a toilet that will sit 1" or more out from the wall.

          To my experience, standard 12" toilet will not fit. --------------------------------------------------------

          Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com

      3. BryanSayer | Jun 11, 2008 06:04pm | #12

        Toto has 10" models.

  2. DanH | Jun 10, 2008 11:22pm | #4

    Either use a 10-inch toilet or replace the flange with an offset flange.

    It is an ironic habit of human beings to run faster when we have lost our way. --Rollo May
    1. MSA1 | Jun 11, 2008 02:06am | #6

      Had to use a 10" toilet once for a flip. What a plesant surprise to return the $80 standard model and pay $200 for the 10".

      Edited 6/10/2008 7:07 pm ET by MSA1

      1. rnsykes | Jun 11, 2008 10:36pm | #13

        must have been a special toilet because depot sells 10" models for approx. the same price as the 12"

        1. MSA1 | Jun 11, 2008 11:07pm | #14

          D'oh!

    2. Learner | Jun 17, 2008 07:27pm | #19

      Not the answer I was hoping for =)

  3. User avater
    Heck | Jun 11, 2008 01:59am | #5

    offset flange.

     


           

    1. MisterT | Jun 12, 2008 04:33am | #16

      If you use an offset flange...don't make big poopies!!!.
      .
      "After the laws of Physics, everything else is opinion" -Neil deGrasse Tyson
      .
      .
      .
      If Pasta and Antipasta meet is it the end of the Universe???

      1. User avater
        Heck | Jun 12, 2008 04:47am | #17

        true dat.

        and don't go near the fan. 

               

  4. ClaysWorld | Jun 11, 2008 02:40am | #7

    Check the manu specs, it will show the rough and off set off the wall.

     I just went thru it with a rental and I hapily found out the cadet ? 2 or 3 I 'd have to take a look went in to a 10+ 3/4" rough.

     yea I was gonna change the flange but it had been put in up against the joyce and no room for a move with out a cut.

    1. Learner | Jun 17, 2008 07:30pm | #20

      Yeah the toilet I am replacing is a 1970 and is installed on grade into the slab. The flange is an old lead thing that doesn't allow replacement of the mounting bolts without breaking through the concrete and inserting from below. Not sure how easy an offset flange would be to install in those circumstances.

  5. brucet9 | Jun 11, 2008 07:04am | #8

    Isn't that 12" flange bolt measurement for the rough-in? Distance from finished wall would then be close to 11".

    Your plumbing supply probably has that toilet on display, so why not take a framing square and tape and go measure the distance from back of tank to bolt holes?

    BruceT
    1. rich1 | Jun 11, 2008 07:34am | #9

      Normally it is 12 to finished wall.

    2. Learner | Jun 17, 2008 07:32pm | #21

      That's a good idea. Hadn't thought to do that. It does say 12" minimum in the manual though so likely that is what I'll find =)

    3. User avater
      Ted W. | Jun 18, 2008 02:29am | #26

      It's commonly called a 12" rough-in, but the measure is to the finish wall. For instance, if the wall was to recieve 5/8" drywall and 3/8" tile, the bolts would be 13" from the studs, to account for the finish surface. --------------------------------------------------------

      Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com

  6. ClaysWorld | Jun 12, 2008 02:37am | #15

    Here's the spec on the cadet 3 and you can see it has 1+1/4" leeway on the wall clearence.

     What's the model # of the Toto and I'll look it up.

    File format
    1. Learner | Jun 17, 2008 07:34pm | #22

      CST414M is the model number. It says 12" minimum in the manual though the picture does show some space b/t the tank and the wall with the minimum install distance =)

      1. rasconc | Jun 17, 2008 08:10pm | #24

        Not high end but I have installed many Gerber toilets that have a standard base and tank designed for specific RI, 10, 12,14" available.  Have not had any problems and they are very inexpensive.

        I have not used the pressure assist but here is a link.

        http://www.gerberonline.com/Catalog.aspx?categoryID=467

      2. rvieceli | Jun 17, 2008 10:33pm | #25

        You might want to take a close look at the wall behind the toilet. When I demoed my bath a couple of years ago for a remodel, the wall behind the toilet consisted of a layer of 3/4" X 4 tongue and groove which was the original wall. It was covered by not one but two layers of 1/2" drywall.

        1. Learner | Jun 18, 2008 07:45am | #27

          True in my case the wall is actually a full wall that is 4" out from the exterior foundation wall that the cripple wall rests on. Not sure why it is built like that. The house is from the 1940s so maybe they didn't want the interior wall studs touching concrete not sure of any other good reasons to create an interior partition wall parallel and 4" out from the exterior wall. No insulation either but that's kind of par for the course.The original toilet works, if it was going to be just a quick swap I would have replaced it with one of these super water savers but I took what I thought was going to be the easier route and just took it apart (2 piece) tank to bowl bolts completely rusted, manually hacksawed through them, then I had to go to the hardware store and find all the stupid like pieces for the tank to bowl connection and a new sponge gasket. Of course it had about 38 years of dust and gunk accumulated on the back of the tank and the bowl which I didn't want to put back so I spent a good deal of time cleaning it. One of the previous tilers had also slopped thinset all over it and covered it up with white paint so I spent a chunk of time chipping that off. 6 hours later when I finally had it all together again it stopped working as I had switched the fixed supply line with a braided 20" ss floodsafe supply line. Turns out the flood safe supply lines don't like water pressure above 70 PSI, turned out the psi was 80. Apparently they are working on new ones that will handle up to 125 PSI, was like pulling teeth just to get the manufacturer to give me that information. So had to replace that.Might have been easier/faster just to cut out the wall, move it back a few feet, drywall, paint and then use the 12" toilet - maybe not but would have been much better than using this 1970 toilet.

  7. alwaysoverbudget | Jun 18, 2008 03:28pm | #28

    time to cut into the sheetrock,remove a 1" of stud and resheetrock,gives a builtin look.

    if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?

    1. rasconc | Jun 18, 2008 06:30pm | #29

      Why would you do that instead of just getting the 10" RI toilet?  The Gerber ones I mentioned are only about $70 for gravity flush. 

      1. User avater
        Heck | Jun 18, 2008 06:43pm | #30

        check his screen name... 

               

        1. rasconc | Jun 18, 2008 07:12pm | #31

          LOL.  He's cool though.  My old stomping grounds in KS.

          Sounds like what I would recommend for a T & M job. (;-)

           

          Edited 6/18/2008 12:14 pm ET by rasconc

      2. rnsykes | Jun 18, 2008 11:55pm | #32

        because he wants a dual flush toilet. He can pick up a 10" anywhere. it's the dual flush and the look of the TOTO that he was after.

      3. alwaysoverbudget | Jun 19, 2008 01:08am | #33

        well he has his heart set on a toto,well maybe something else is going to set on it,but anyway if toto doesn't have the one he wants in a 10" he's got to move something.

        i will look ,i don't think lowes or hd has a 10 on the shelf here.be good to know as i have beenknowned to mismeasured before on rough in.........larryif a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?

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