son-in-law’s (sil) toilet leaking despite changing all the replaceable guts in the toilet (not leaking onto the floor, but a slow dribble from the tank that caused the tank to refill about 4-6 times per day).
sil took out the old toilet and put in a new one, but the new one didn’t seat well into the floor flange, and leaked a bit of water onto the floor after reach flush. problem was: flange bolts are 11″ (at the center of the flange plate) from the wall, and the one piece toilet needs 12″ from bolts to the wall in order for the toilet to fully seat on the wax ring/flange.
the toilet bolts, and the flange structure that they pierce in the floor, seem to not be easily replaceable, without a few inches of floor demolition around the floor flange. there is a finished basement under this toilet, so accessing the drain pipes from below isn’t a functional option.
sil called the manufacturer of the toilet (Mirabelle), and they had no adaptors or recommendations for us.
sil is considering:
1. junking the new $350 toilet (used 3 times) and buying another toilet that will accept 11″ flange bolt spacing from the wall, or
2. taking out about 20″ x 20″ portion of the sheet rock behind the toilet tank, cutting out about 3/4″ of studs (it’s an interior wall), applying 1/4″ plywood backing and using adhesive to attach a FRP panel (0.09″ thick) to the plywood – this would give enough clearance behind the toilet tank), or
3. is there such a thing as an offset adaptor that we could put between the floor flange and the wax ring/toilet, to move the toilet 1″ further from the wall? if so, brand, model, source and instruction for installation would be appreciated.
4. other suggestions besides building an out-house or running downstairs to use the toilet there (we measured, and the basement toilet can’t be exchanged for the above toilet)?
what would you recommend?
if you can help me help my sil, my daughter will appreciate it.
also, is there a standard distance from wall to toilet bolts? why would the house be “roughed-in” (in the ’70’s) with only 11″ span? no, remodeling didn’t occur.
thanks.
Replies
Get a toilet with a 10” rough.
https://www.thebestflushingtoilet.com/10-inch-rough-in-reviews/
Have you ask about an offset flange?
edit: Call / go to a plumbing supply co.
They do make offset flanges available at every big box store...just have make room for it and get the old one out.
Offset flanges don't drain as well but that's an option I'd consider. I'd also price out Calvin's notion.
Notion?
That was a well thought out suggestion. Probably was a 10” toilet from the get go....."...
Oh yeah, happy new year!
Pretty sure notions cover well thought out ideas too, local parlance. Happy new year to you too!
Yeah, getting a 10” rough toilet is the solution to your problem.
Looks as if vesta didn’t come back......
That seems to be happening a lot. Someone posts a question and then never follows up or provides an update on the outcome...
spending several hundred dollars on another new toilet is distasteful.
this problem could have been avoided if we were aware of different distances from the flange bolts to the wall, or if there was a standardized distance for builders to follow during construction. now we know.
we found off-set flanges (the first plumbing store we went to was unaware that this product existed).
I'm leaning towards options #2.
son-in-law is leaning towards option #3, but he hasn't yet made a decision, so that toilet is currently being unused - at least there are 2 other toilets in the house (unfortunately, their flange bolt distances won't permit exchanging with the one in question).
#2) In my opinion, it would be more a "do it yourselfish" and a less professional solution.
#3) Is not all that uncommon. There is a reason that offset flanges exist. Plumbers don't always hit the mark at rough in. The framers may have built the wall in the wrong place. The location maybe off front to back or side to side. Thank goodness for offset flanges.
Yeah, you should have measured before you got the new toilet. The two main spacings are 12" and 10". (I believe there are a few in the 14" range as well.) But at this point (and given that you're only off by an inch) it may be worthwhile to try an offset flange.
thanks for all your replies.
I thought toilets were standard.
now I know that the wall to flange bolt distance can vary, and that is important information if the contractor didn't use the standard (most common distance).
I preferred a trial of an offset flange, but s-i-l got got a new toilet (with a shorter wall to flange hole distance). he intended to get an elongated seat toilet style, but the print on the box was small, and he ended up with a round seat style. oh well.
problem solved - but cost more - but don't have to worry about the efficiency of an offset flange.
The difference between 10 and 12" rough in most toilets is the tank and not the bowl. Obviously this is not the case for all, take one piece toilets for example.
Most toilets flanges are set on 12" centers away from the finished wall, but some are made for 10" centers for small bathrooms. As long as your wax seal is good and the toilet cannot move at all, and it is functioning without leaking, you should be good to go.
Your son-in-law could consider using an offset flange adapter to move the toilet further from the wall, allowing it to seat properly. Brands like Oatey, Sioux Chief, or Fernco may offer suitable products, but a plumbing professional's advice is recommended for the right fit and installation. If the adapter isn't feasible, replacing the new toilet with one that accommodates the 11" flange bolt spacing may be more practical. While modifying the wall behind the toilet is an option, it could involve significant work and affect the wall's structural integrity. The 11" bolt spacing in the 1970s-built house likely reflects construction practices or building codes of that era, which sometimes allowed for variations in rough-in distances.
https://usawaterrestoration.com/how-to-fix-an-overflowing-toilet/