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Toilet flange too close to wall — help!

geoffhazel | Posted in Construction Techniques on January 21, 2004 08:05am

Don’t ask how it happened, at this point it doesn’t matter.  Fact is, when I went to install the toilet in the new bathroom, I found the flange was centered at 9″ from the finished wall vs. 12″ and the toilet does not fit.

What are my options?  Main criteria here are cheap and fast.  I can patch the floor and replumb if needed but it’s a long crawl under the house.

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  1. BungalowJeff | Jan 21, 2004 08:09am | #1

    There are offset flanges, although I'm not sure if they cover that big an oops. Fast and Cheap? Isn't that what got you where your are now?

    ...that's not a mistake, it's rustic

  2. RalphWicklund | Jan 21, 2004 08:27am | #2

    You really don't need that wall behind the toilet, do you?

    Create an alcove behind the commode by removing the drywall and studs to a height and width that will clear the tank. Reframe it as if it were a low doorway. Add a rectangle of 3/4" plywood against the back of opposite rooms drywall. Add a layer of drywall (or not) to that plywood backer and finish the alcove with either corner bead or real casing.

    You've just gained three inches of leg room in front of the commode. Or, you have room for an elongated bowl that you might not have had before.

    1. hyena | Jan 21, 2004 08:34am | #3

      Ralph that is a very creative idea.

      Hopefully it is an inside wall.

      Not only would that work, but  if done as Ralph suggested , it

      could end up looking better and as if planned that way :')

    2. jhazel3 | Jan 21, 2004 08:35am | #4

      They have 10inch rough in toilets also instead of the 12inch rough in but the styles are limited

      Good luck Jim III

    3. User avater
      CapnMac | Jan 21, 2004 09:03am | #5

      If there is a cabinet above the toilet (a "head knocker" in the cabinet trade), frame the inset right up to the bottom of the cabinet (typically 54" AFF).

      If no cabinet--and the vent allows--make it an alcove.  Throw some glass "invisible" shelves (6" deep x 24" side), call it three equal from 54" to, say, an 80" header height.  Hockey puck "reading" (aka "feature") light on it's own switch, to really dress it up, while we're at it.

      Still a great idea for making lemonade out of lemons.

      (And don't blame me for trying to put some Absolut Citron in the lemonade <g> . . . )Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

  3. davidmeiland | Jan 21, 2004 09:34am | #6

    Get a 10" rough-in toilet and an offset flange and you're done.

  4. User avater
    VtMike | Jan 21, 2004 01:22pm | #7

    Do the right thing and move the flange. The old hole will be under the toilet and the patch won't show.

    Yesterday I couldn't even spell plumber, today I are one.

  5. jako17 | Jan 21, 2004 05:02pm | #8

    When they say rough in ,they don't mean that rough!<G> Redo it ,offset flanges often cause blockages

  6. ccal | Jan 22, 2004 06:15am | #9

    The 10 inch toilet and offst flange will do it but wont be cheap and may have to be special ordered, but thatts what i would do.

    1. geoffhazel | Jan 22, 2004 06:26am | #10

      So three options present themselves:

      offset flange

      10" toilet

      alcove.

      I'm going with the alcove.  The plumbing under the house is well done but tight. The floor, due to various reasons, is 2 1/2" thick.  The cutting and replumbing for offset flange is daunting.  10" toilet sounds doable but we're near the end of the project, $$ is tight, I can't return the toilet I have, so that would be expensive.  This IS an interior wall that I framed up, and will easily submit to the alcove idea.  Due to plumbing in the wall I may have to start the alcove a foot or so above the floor, but that's fine --saves me from patching the vinyl that's already installed.  I still have drywall working in other parts of the house, so a little more is no big deal.

      I'll post some pictures when it's all done.

      1. toast953 | Jan 22, 2004 09:14am | #11

        Beings how you are going with the Alcove ideal,, please leave your self plenty of room above the toilet tank lid, so's a person can change out the float assembly. And remember, if anyone asks, you have got to tell them about your interior designer,, ehh eh, and have fun, ya got to have some fun.. Jim J

        1. ClaysWorld | Jan 22, 2004 06:12pm | #12

          For the amount of work to Jack the job I vote for fixing the location. So whats the big deal ? look at all the trouble you have gone to  to try N cure a mistake, just fix it and bit the bullet. Cut the floor, cut the pipe, slip coupling, patch floor, set toilet. Now your ready to sit and smile.

          Clay

          1. geoffhazel | Jan 22, 2004 06:40pm | #13

            I hear ya' clay, but this is a 100 yr old house. There's a mess of wiring just where the pipes are, and as the bathroom was an add-on, close to the main line, I have a 3" line with nothing but tees going off it every few inches, to catch the water from the sink, shower, toilet, and the nearby laundry room.  I think, timewise, I can get the alcove done for about half the time fixing the plumbing will take, and I don't have to mess with crawling under the house or patching the vinyl.

            Besides, I think it'll look kinda cool.  The ceiling is a full 8' off the floor, and I'm going to bring the alcove up to 7' so it looks like it was always meant to be there.

          2. ClaysWorld | Jan 22, 2004 07:02pm | #14

            The biggest cure for the I hate that crawl space syndrom that I've found is resporator/hooded sweatshirt/ saftey glasses. And when it's really bad I go to the tyvec full suit and duct tape to seal it off on my boots and cuffs. So I do know what your talking about. Plus the vinal patch -ug.

            Clay

          3. User avater
            NickNukeEm | Jan 22, 2004 10:07pm | #15

            Sounds pretty cool.  I might consider doing it on purpose.  Size it so a cabinet will fit, or custom make your own.  As was said, leave room to swap out the guts of the tanks.

            Post the pics when it's done.

            I never met a tool I didn't like!

  7. Isamemon | Jan 23, 2004 01:09am | #16

    100 + year old house and the alcove idea. I would run with that. Yo said it would be a headache to fix the plumbing underneath due to tight fittings andit sounds like yo are sold on the alcove

    what  is the "theme" of the bathroom. Very modern or contemporary or looking period to the 100 year old house

    I think the alcove shoudl somehow try to match the "theme"

    1. geoffhazel | Jan 23, 2004 01:48am | #17

      Bathroom theme is pretty modern.  It's an L shaped room with a pocket door in one long wall, pedestal sink to right, corner shower to the left, and as you go down the other side of the L past the corner shower, you get to the toilet.  Everthing is new, but not "period". 

      It's pretty plain in there, actually. The leg of the L for the toilet is about 3' 6" wide or so, and I'm going to make the alcove about 3-4" wider than the toilet tank and as deep as I can get it.  I think I will put some shelves in there as well.  I'd put a small light in the top too, but I don't want to mess with wiring at this point.  I was supposed to be done with this project Dec 31, 2003.. or was it 2002?   :)

      1. geoffhazel | Mar 24, 2004 02:30am | #18

        Posted pics as requested on this thread:

        http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=41459.1

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