Replies

1. 
   Restorer | Jan 30, 2004 05:43am | #1

   Here ya go.....

   http://www.copemaster.com/

   The price is at the bottom.... Ouch... stop it...

   Reckon Tommy's gone and got a sponsor like Nahmie?

1. 
   JeffBuck | Jan 30, 2004 05:59am | #2

   I saw that thing before ...

   also saw the price ...

   There's not enough crown on the east coast to make that cost efficient.

   He'd be better off offering a $1K bonus to the guy on the crew that can cope the fastest ....

   JeffBuck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

1. 
   CarpenterPJE | Jan 30, 2004 06:15am | #3

   Jeff,

   Can't  you cope any trim with it,  base, chair-rail & crown?

   I like how all the suppliers of  materials, tools & services get all that exposer on PBS week after week & what does it cost them, some donated items which has to cost a lot less than paying for ad space, & to think there is tax payers money going to PBS helping support it.  I wonder how Sliva makes out with that deal, how its structured?

   PJE

2. 
   Sancho | Jan 30, 2004 06:51am | #4

   But Jeff its.... its.... its.... Tom 

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

3. 
   CAGIV | Jan 30, 2004 07:13am | #5

   yeah, you seen that ring saw for cutting curves in tile in the new issue of the mag...

   over a grand, to cut curves in tile?

   wow!

1. 
   JeffBuck | Jan 30, 2004 04:48pm | #9

   Now that tile saw ... I can see.

   Not that I'm gonna run out tomorrow to buy one ....

   But if the work calls for lotsa curves ... looks like no better way to do it.

   I've actualy had that very thought in my head a coupla times ....

   "man, I wish there was a wet saw to cut these damn curves ...."

   Never once have I thought about a machine to do the simple job of coping some trim ... what's the standard base take ... a minute?

   Crown ... maybe 3 .... maybe 5 ....tops.

   Really ... it'd take me longer to feed the piece thru the machine than to make the cut myself.

   Plus ... chicks dig the hand cope.

   JeffBuck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

1. 
   NickNukeEm | Jan 30, 2004 05:16pm | #10

    ... chicks dig the hand cope.

   Now you're getting kinky.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

2. 
   mikerooney | Jan 30, 2004 05:25pm | #11

     Wouldn't it be nice if the trim would come pre-coped on one end? Couldn't cost them that much - but it'll never happen.

     I really hate coping oak shoe ( and have the notches in my thumb to prove it) been kicking ideas around for years - maybe something on a router table with a coping sled?

     I can't see where that Copemaster is all that much faster and I'd NEVER turn some knuckle head loose on a machine that expensive - wouldn't last half a day. 

3. 
   bill_1010 | Jan 30, 2004 05:37pm | #12

   shoe as in 1/4 round? if so use a hole saw jig to cope it.  if its 3/4 use a 1 1/2 hole saw and set up a jig that allows you to cope that profile.

4. 
   Sphere | Jan 30, 2004 05:51pm | #13

   miter the shoe..cope the base.

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?

5. 
   mikerooney | Jan 30, 2004 08:12pm | #15

   I never miter shoe and I never miter stop. Some might not know the dif, but I gotta live with myself. 

6. 
   Sphere | Jan 30, 2004 08:22pm | #16

   since I've had the guillotine miter trimmer, I just put it on a scrap of carpet and slide it around with me..slice and nail. Coping small shoe is not for me, but hey, ya gotta eat.

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?

7. 
   TrimButcher | Jan 31, 2004 12:02am | #19

   How does the guillotine work? You cut the shoe long with a saw, then slice to length? If so, I don't see how it's faster? Or is it for accuracy?

   Regards,

   Tim Ruttan

8. 
   Sphere | Jan 31, 2004 12:23am | #20

   Yes, accuracy.  I can eyeball a length, one pull witha japanese pullsaw, lay it in the miter trimmer for the first end , get a measurement or lay it down and make a tick mark..miter the otherend and spring in place..a few brads and done. I never have to chase a small pc. the chopsaw throws across the room, I don't even need a chopsaw.

   I can lay the moulding in ruff lengths around the room, and come along and set it with out having to get up and down, or walk to a bench or a saw, and I can trim a real small return or wrap filler, as short as 1/2 '' and shave it to fit as little as a few thousandths with  as many times as needed..you can't do that with a chopsaw.

   All I use is a small bottle of glue, pullsaw, tape measure, pencil, and the trimmer and gun..whoop out a room in 1/3 the time and joints that ya can't fit a cigarette paper in.

   But it's my way, not for everyone. I still will cope a few here and there, if needed. But the trimmer saves too much to do too much of that.

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?

9. 
   Sphere | Jan 31, 2004 12:25am | #21

   here it is...

   View ImageGo Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?

10. 
    CAGIV | Jan 30, 2004 08:37pm | #17

    I can't see the tile ring saw, like ya said, maybe if you had a job with a TON of curved cuts, but I see that taking longer to pay for itself than the cope machine.

    wouldn't use it for base, but chair, and crown...

    think about it, lets say 4 minutes to cope something moderatly complex, you got at least 4 copes in each room, that's at least 16 minutes per room, the cope machine could cope them all in about 2 minutes, that's a rough guess from the article I saw on it... but it was quick.

    so it takes about an hour for the lead guy, making 20 or so an hour to cope 4 rooms...  when you could have another guy, making 10 bucks an hour do it in 2 minutes, and to simply things, say that cost you 1 dollar of his labor.

    so you're saving 19 bucks per 4 rooms.. and that's just for one run of trim in a simple room... start adding crown and chair in a room, you get the idea.

    so, at a savings of 19 bucks. per 4 rooms, you need to do....240 rooms total to pay for the thing, not even taking into the fact that he lead guy can be more effective doing other things making you money.....

    at least that's my version of math.... not sure if it makes much sense.

11. 
    PhillGiles | Feb 01, 2004 07:34am | #44

    But this coping machine costs 4 times what it costs for a basic spindle-shaper that will do the same job easier and faster. On some of the big jobs they bring out piles of left and right coped lengths (papered/primed MDF colonial - many of these trimmers use only one profile for years) you just leave on the floor beside the wall and someone comes along, cuts it to length, and guns it in. All the cut-offs go in the return bin and come back in a day or two as coped shorts..

    Phill Giles

    The Unionville Woodwright

    Unionville, Ontario

12. 
    Homewright | Feb 02, 2004 09:08pm | #45

    One of the things about coping I see over and over is the loss of the tiny point of material where the cope gives itself away as a cope.  It doesn't look like a miter with that little piece missing.  What's worked for me is taking my utility knife and cutting a mitered notch in the piece of trim run flat to the wall where the tiny point of material coped with a bit of meat left on it has a place to tuck into.  It's one little step I don't skip simply because I like the end result enough to take the extra step.  And for stain grade applications, it does look like a real miter.  From what I saw of the coping machine, this piece I'm referring to seems to be lost during the process of cutting.

13. 
    donpapenburg | Feb 04, 2004 04:08am | #48

    Are you talking about the bottom of the crown ?  I never thought of doing that . Going to try it some time.

14. 
    Homewright | Feb 04, 2004 09:03am | #51

    Yes Don, that's the spot where most copes give themselves away.  It works on any profile from base to crown to chair.  If it's coped, that tip will be there and the way I described works great.  Give it a try.

15. 
    Sancho | Feb 04, 2004 06:25pm | #52

    I just use a coping saw and a dremel 

    Darkworksite4:

    Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

16. 
    Homewright | Feb 04, 2004 06:32pm | #53

    I'm partial to my Bosch with a small blade and a fresh utility blade.  To each their own as long as s/he likes the results....

17. 
    Sancho | Feb 05, 2004 03:04am | #57

    Yea one of my best buds used to say "Its all personal preferance" as long as it comes out the way its supposed in the end. 

    Darkworksite4:

    Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

2. 
   Lateapex911 | Jan 30, 2004 10:00am | #6

   I spoke with Tom at the Homebuilders show in Vegas a week ago about his opinion of the Festool products I spotted on the show.

   He pointed out that all logos on the show are taped over, and that Festool wasn't sponsoring or donating them. That said, I suspect he didn't pay list, but neither did I.

   He is a believer, and I suspect, a bit of a tool fancier, as we all are. He seems to do solid work, and over the years has an impressive resume of projects. I suspect he's doing just fine, and may even be able to make a case for the Copemaster. Remember the huge house on the water he did? Lots of coping in there!

   His knowledge of the Festool system was impressive. We talked about that mostly for about 10 minutes as we walked. I think he knows a good tool when he sees it, and his company is large enough, and maybe more importantly, commands the respect and the better contracts, so that such tools become affordable.

   While the Copemaster is too specialized and pricey for me, I can see that it can save a ton of time, it will keep working when the ace coper on the crew is taking his 2 week vacation, and it will waste less material.

   I do hope though, that other companies jump on the bandwagon and offer a more sophisticated version for less. Just a matter of time.

   Jake Gulick

   [email protected]

   CarriageHouse Design

   Black Rock, CT

1. 
   CAGIV | Jan 30, 2004 10:37am | #7

   it was pointed out in a recent blurb in the magazine about the copemaster, but I think it's important, the one solid advatange of the coping machine is once it's set up, you could put a flunky on it and have him run the material through it, freeing up the better craftsman to be more productive.

   In an operation of the right scale, I think it could pay for itself in a timely enough fashion to make it worthwile.

1. 
   BungalowJeff | Jan 30, 2004 03:45pm | #8

   ...especially if you are getting the tool for free, like Norm and Tom do....that's not a mistake, it's rustic

2. 
   BillHartmann | Jan 30, 2004 07:07pm | #14

   I think that he left something out of the mix.

   The Festools and similar are given credit at the shows end and if you check the project on the TOH web site they list all of the materials, special trades, and equipment that was used.

   And I don't know about tools like this, material and equipment or donated to project for "conderation".

3. 
   Floss | Jan 30, 2004 09:42pm | #18

   I've used my Bosch jigsaw for years for coping. No special attachments, or collins coping foot. I rarely use my coping saw. With a little practice you can cope 4" crown faster than that machine, now I sound like John Henry. I think coping, mitering and joining pieces of wood together is what a carpenter should know how to do. Seems to me to be another gadget for the gadget minded who have no skill and are too lazy to try and acquire it.

   J.P.

1. 
   KRettger | Jan 31, 2004 02:22am | #22

   Hey j.p.

   Sounds like an idea. Never tried it before buts sounds like it could work good.

   Don't have too much experience with a jig saw. Bought one about half year ago to cut out openings for flush mount lockable hardware for scads of pocket doors in big condo job. Just a wee bit scary on first few doors till I got a bit of a feel for the tool with the different blades. Found out type of blade made a huge difference on how true the blade would stay when really pushing the limit of a cut. And as I only had 3/32" play on reveal had to make the cut just right or things got real scary real quick. 

   Anyway was wondering what type of blade and setting you use on the jig saw to do this coping. Also are the any particular techniques you use to make the cuts? How do you go about securing the wood, etc.?

   I've got my real fine Bosch jig saw toy....eerrrr, tool, yah that's right tool, and would like to get better with it but know enough after working a couple of dozen doors that you best have a good idea on blades etc. before tackling a new project.

   Cork (who knows just enough about jigsaws to be real dangerous) in Chicago

1. 
   Floss | Jan 31, 2004 04:30am | #24

   Cork,

   I use the Bosch #T 101 B blades for most applications since I can get a larger depth of cut. This blade has a tendency to catch when starting but cuts smooth and fast. You can start out learning with the #T 101 AO blades since they are thinner and slightly shorter than the others. I currently use the Bosch with the barrel grip and only use my thumb and forefinger to grip the base of the saw close to the blade. I rest the toip portion of the base on the waste portion of the moulding, after it has been mitered, and use this as a guide. You need to keep the blade perpendicular to the mitered cut, at a 45 deg. angle, in order to get the correct back cut for the moulding to fit together nicely. It is hard to describe in words but if you practice you will be amazed at how much time it saves and how well your copes go together. Let me know if this makes sense.

   J.P.

1. 
   KRettger | Jan 31, 2004 09:27am | #30

   Hey j.p.

   Made a copy of your post, and will use it to get correct blades and then try out technique Monday on lunch break.

   Won't be using it during work cause boss says we've got steel studs going up in the basement area of the condos and as I have a commercial background I'm up to bat to bang it out. But will definitely give it a shot. Hopefully I'll have it figured out well enough to get a grip on the technique and still come out with all fingers intact.

   Cork (trying to keep all fingers while learning new tricks) in Chicago

1. 
   JEDDAN | Jan 31, 2004 05:26pm | #31

   Iwas looking through a pile of back issues (FHB) and came across a jig  for coping. looks like a triangle that has the point up, slide the trim in and runyour jig-saw on the face of the jig. gives you something solid for the saw to run on. sorry about the weak explanation, can't recall which issue either, but it works great and is simple to build and saves a lot of time. Built the jig when my local supplier didn't know what a coping foot was.Orca Builders

   Killer homes since 1988

2. 
   dIrishInMe | Jan 31, 2004 05:33pm | #32

   I think JLC had an article on the coping machine a few months ago.

   For anyone who has trouble coping shoe, sorry to say it, but you need to do less reading and more of doing the real thing.

   I am very interested in Sphere's "guitine" (sp?).  Sphere - how big is that thing?  It's kind of hard to visualize from the picture.  Maybe just state how long that handle is that is laying in the front of the pic.   What's the approximate cost? Matt

3. 
   Sphere | Jan 31, 2004 05:56pm | #33

   Matt..The miter trimmer is about 2' long total..cast iron, and yes thats the handle. The blades are on a track that slides via the handle..and the fences are like wings that can be locked in at the angle you choose it has detents at 45* and can be adjusted to the zillionth of a minute..you can set both fences for opposing or complimentry angles or keep one at 90 and the other at say 22.5*..

   Picture framers use them alot..got mine at AMT Tools..it is a copy of the LION MITER TRIMMER..LION is about 269.00 and mine was (20 yrs ago) about 150.00..you would love it, silent cordless, accurate enough to make potatoe chips, razor sharp, and in the wrong hands dangerous as hell. I made a box for storing and transporting it, and can set it on the closed box for use, in the box I keep all the goodies that go with using it for shoe or other medium trim..nail hole filler, xtra nails, small squrae, pull saw or coping saw, glue, band aides <G>.

   Must have for staingrade trim..never any tearout. Glass smooth ends on shoe returns at stops at door casing. Just a Effen great tool..impressive as hell on site.

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?

4. 
   jonblakemore | Jan 31, 2004 08:29pm | #34

   Sphere,

   I have always noticed this tool, but never really understood it's fnuction.  Does it clean up miters, or will it chop completely through the workpiece?  I always thought it just acted like a block plane, but your description sounds different.  Which is it? 

   Jon Blakemore

5. 
   Sphere | Jan 31, 2004 08:40pm | #35

   No, It is not intended for choppin thru..it is best to ruff cut and then slice for final fit..I had a guy on site tryin to slice thru a pc. of pine shoe..he couldn't comprehend the process..it will shave a 1/4'' or little more depending on hardness and angle..a 90* cut in oak3/4 '' qtr. round would limit the lenght of trim off to maybe an 1/8 at a shot..but you can nibble real fast once ya hang of it.

   Kinda like slicing lunchmeat..leaves a pile of shaves on the floor, not dust...Window casing..at 2.25 in  can cut 3/8 on the miter. IF you go with the grain the right way I.E short pt. to long pt. like a plane.

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?

6. 
   NickNukeEm | Jan 31, 2004 09:30pm | #37

   How often do you need to sharpen the blades, and how?  Stones, wheels, belt sander (G)?

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

7. 
   Sphere | Jan 31, 2004 09:54pm | #38

   simple..I do not technically Sharpen them like a plane iron or grind them..it would take some shop with the right setup to not screw em up..What I do tho' is when it feels like its dragging in the cut too much..a matter of experiance..or leaves a track( meaning a nick) I carry a 1x4 diamond hone (in my wallet, and a 3x4 scraper..I know it's odd but I am a woodhead) and unbolt the blade and very carefully swipe the stone across the bevel edge, and then flat on the back side in a swirl (lubed with spit, of course) then strop it on my heel of my hand or the side of my instep of my boots..cowboy type boots are great..2 big strops, on foot all the time. I have never yet had the knives reground in almost 20 yrs. BUT I am extremly careful with this, and almost no one else gets near it (I mostly work by my self). It will easily stay sharp with care, and keeping it in a case and dry is crucial. But accuracy is wworth it..like I said less than paper thin cuts.

   I got it origianally for a sh*t load of glass stops for some windows I made, then it found its way into the job site for trim Now it is a regular item in the truck when I know thats what is coming up.

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?

8. 
   TrimButcher | Feb 03, 2004 11:31pm | #46

   For all interested in Sphere's miter trimmer, Lee Valley sells one. I always wondered what it would be like to use...thanks, Sphere!

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=32922&category=1,42884&ccurrency=2&SID=

   Regards,

   Tim Ruttan

9. 
   Phat | Jan 31, 2004 08:49pm | #36

   Jon,

   Check out your local custom picture framing shop. They'll probably have something very similar to the Lion Trimmer.

   Years ago, we had a "chomper" that had two razor sharp blades set 45 degrees to the fence. To cut the moulding you would step on a floor petal that lowered the blades into the moulding. After each bite, you would move the blades incrementally deeper - closer to the fence. That way you would cut both sides of the miter at the same time. 

   Wicked sharp tool.

   Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability

10. 
    Floss | Jan 31, 2004 10:56pm | #39

    If your saw is variable speed then take it slow in order to get the feel of the cut and how you need to hold the saw. I've never had a problem and can still count to ten on my fingers, and I've been using this technique for the past 6 or 7 years. I also use a 4" spring clamp, orange Pony clamp, to hold the piece down so I can use both hands when coping.

    J.P.

2. 
   tomw1 | Jan 31, 2004 03:18am | #23

        SPEAKING OF LAZY, I WAS RECENTLY AT A MILLWORKS/LUMBER YARD NEAR MY JOB THAT ACTUALLY HAD THE PRE-COPED TRIM MENTIONED BY SOMEONE ELSE. I'M NOT SURE IF THEY HAD SIMPLE PROFILES BUT THEY DEFINITELY HAD SOME CROWN THAT HAD ONE END COPED.

1. 
   Floss | Jan 31, 2004 04:47am | #25

   Now if they could just get the moulding to jump up on the wall. everyone would be happy, if not entertained. Do you know how much extra they charge for the coped end? Call me old fashioned but I think that there is a basic set of skills that every carpenter should have if the really want to be considered a professional. Just being able to run a machine doesn't cut it in my book.

   J.P.

   Edited 1/30/2004 8:53:57 PM ET by j.p.

2. 
   JeffBuck | Jan 31, 2004 05:38am | #26

   man ...

   all the job site chicks are gonna get pissed!

   I'm telling ya ...

   they love a good cope!

   JeffBuck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

1. 
   Sphere | Jan 31, 2004 05:41am | #27

   hey arnold THATS GROPE!!!..

   Go Stab yourself Ya Putz! Ya think I Parked here?

2. 
   jonblakemore | Jan 31, 2004 06:42am | #28

   Jeff,

   Have you ever done a coffered ceiling?  Well, neither have I, but I think it would be interesting.

   My point is imagine all the copes in a library with a coffered ceilng.  Let's say the dimensions are 20x20, with 4x4 panels.  Thats 25 panels, each with 4 copes.  100 copes in stain grade cherry.  I'm assuming that since they charge so much this thing cuts perfect copes, so I could see the time saving and accuracy making up for the purchase price.  After a few jobs, you might be making a good bit from that machine.

   Or maybe I'm just trying to rationalize another tool... 

   Jon Blakemore

1. 
   james | Jan 31, 2004 08:17am | #29

   john,

   on coffered ceilings copeing is almost not necessary, if you lay out your beams correctly ( true and square ) you can miter cut your crown, assemble it on the ground with glue, miter clamps and brads.... get some coffee and then start hanging your picture frames.

   regards,

   james

2. 
   JeffBuck | Jan 31, 2004 11:29pm | #40

   Yes I have.

   And the other responder was right ...

   lay it all out ...

   prefab the boxes ...

   slip it all into place  ... more or less.

   No copes .... all glued miters ...

   not much expansion/contraction to worry about ....due to the short lengths

   Cut them a hair long and bend/snap/fit into place.

   Face nail most everything  ... even with stain grade ... it's a ceiling after all ... not exactly eye level.

   If U buy the machine ... maybe I'll rent it from ya!

   Jeff

   Buck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

3. 
   jonblakemore | Feb 01, 2004 03:02am | #42

   I'll keep that in mind if I ever get to do one.

   You should be well set up for cutting alot of miters now that you have a nifty $70 miter saw stand...<G> 

   Jon Blakemore

4. 
   JeffBuck | Feb 01, 2004 03:04am | #43

   with friends like U ......

   JeffBuck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

5. 
   GoldenWreckedAngle | Feb 04, 2004 02:55am | #47

   You know, I haven't seen a room full of coped coffers since my last high school football physical.Kevin Halliburton

   "I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity."  - I.M. Pei -

6. 
   JeffBuck | Feb 04, 2004 04:44am | #49

   speaking of coffered ceilings ...

   at the new dentists Mon morn ... old store front in a happening part of town ...

   walked in and was amazed at the waiting room ... flat panels and coffers everywhere.

   This dude spent some money well restoring the old building .. or having it remodeled to fit the old style and his needs ...

   One thing I noticed and smiled about ...

   remember ... I said I was at the "dentists" ....

   all the major mouldings were "dentil"!

   Thought ... this guy had to have planned this ... it was almost to the point of over-use ... I thought very cool.

   I got the younger partner guy dentist ...

   On the plus side ... he's waiting to hear back from his insurance company ... had a pipe burst ... and he live about an hour north ... right in the area I do most of my work in! Has a friend right up the street from the current job ...

   After the repairs he said his wife was talking about a few projects.

   Funny how that happens ...

   Jeff

   Buck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

3. 
   tomw1 | Feb 01, 2004 01:53am | #41

   Jeff,

        I didn't say I bought any!  I,m with the guys here that think you should know how to do certain things to call yourself a carpenter.  I see you're from Pittsburgh, I think that Allegheny Millworks carries some crown with one end pre-coped.  Hope the job site ladies hang around to me hand cope a few pcs.

3. 
   user-3146 | Feb 04, 2004 05:13am | #50

   I'm with you. I've been copping with a jigsaw for years. I use an old Dewalt with the speed ajust on the trigger and here's the kicker, I usually sit crossleged on the floor with the jigsaw upside down in my lap one hand on the trigger and one on the crown. If its baseboard I clamp it to a table with a Quickgrip and do it standing up with the saw still upsidedown. I've never had to redo a piece this way. It works great and does not take much time to learn. I know I could beat the 22 seconds the machine takes to do it.

   Jason

1. 
   Floss | Feb 04, 2004 08:40pm | #54

   If you cope from the back, does the blade have more of a tendancy to grab? Thats why I clamp and cope from the top. Plus If I want I can put a heavier backcut on the crown in order to get a nice tight cope. But if it works for you then go for it. Also, I hardly if ever use a rasp or file to adjust the copes, pretty much use them right from the saw.

   J.P.

1. 
   4Lorn2 | Feb 04, 2004 10:15pm | #55

   Y'all are such ninnies.

   Everyone knows that Real carpenters miter and caulk. Coping? Got some pills for that.

   <GD&R>

1. 
   JeffBuck | Feb 05, 2004 04:15am | #58

   AKA ... "Cheese Adhesive" ...

   keeps the cheese from slipping off the cracker ...

   JeffBuck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

2. 
   reinvent | Feb 08, 2004 01:46am | #59

   There is an old saying for that.

   'Putty n paint make a carpenter what he aint'

3. 
   CarpenterPJE | Feb 08, 2004 05:14am | #60

   Or,  "Chalk & paint makes you what you ain't"

   Or,  "Chalk & puddy the carpenters buddy"Or, for the ceramic man,  "When in doubt, Grout"

   Edited 2/7/2004 9:17:19 PM ET by CarpenterPJE

   Edited 2/7/2004 9:19:55 PM ET by CarpenterPJE

2. 
   user-3146 | Feb 04, 2004 11:19pm | #56

   I don't let it grab by setting the saw at just the right speed

   Jason