Replies

1. 
   BossHog | Jul 22, 2002 10:46pm | #1

   Two suggestions -

   1. Write it off as "character"

   2. Try posting this in the "Knots" woodworking forum.

   I can resist anything but temptation.

1. 
   sedarch | Jul 23, 2002 04:07pm | #6

   Thanks for the responce.

   #1 Since the bar is immediately adjacent to new maple kitchen cabinets, it would look very rough. The only character involved with these tool marks is that it would show a lack of character on my part if I don't fix it.

   #2 Might try this.

   Thanks again, Steve

1. 
   BossHog | Jul 23, 2002 04:29pm | #7

   "The only character involved with these tool marks is that it would show a lack of character on my part if I don't fix it.

   "

   Actually, I feel the same. Can't imagine why anyone would build something new and then "distress" it. Or use poor quality wood and then call it "character".

   Mostly, I was just kidding. Option #2 (posting in knots) is probably your best bet since it's a woodworking forum.

   Hope your project turns out well .

   I smile because I have no idea what's going on.

1. 
   sedarch | Jul 23, 2002 04:37pm | #8

   Thanks,

   I figured you were just kidding. I don't like distressing anything either, got a bunch of kids who will eventually do it for me.

   Appreciate the tips,

   Steve

2. 
   Squash | Jul 22, 2002 11:16pm | #2

   Hey Steve,

   2 Questions: #1  Have you already installed the bar?

                        #2  How much of a perfectionist are you?

   If you had originally asked how to finish the top I would have suggested that you avoid sanding alltogether and use a cabinet scraper.  That would have left you with a satin smooth surface ready for finishing.  Problem now is that any abrasives left in the wood will dull down the scraper.  I think at this point your best bet would be to either live with the marks or go back and use the RO to remove them.  Start off around 100 grit and work up to 180 or 220.  The belt sander leaves much deeper and impressions than other sanders which take more effort to remove.  I'd avoid spot sanding from the standpoint that the divot created would be more of an eyesore than the original 'defect' once all is done.  However, to answer your question, the tone of the finish would most likely not be altered by resanding one or a few spots.  Hope that helps a bit and good luck - Nick

1. 
   sedarch | Jul 23, 2002 04:01pm | #4

   Hi there,

   Thanks for the responce.

   #1 Not installed yet.

   #2 I am an Architectural designer, and hence a perfectionist.

   I will be finishing the bar with an epoxy from Aristokraft that is about 3/16" thk. A slight impression where the defects are might not be noticed. Am thinking about the removing the scratches with a RO sander, but suspect that I will not be able to stain the spot without getting a double coat around it, so I might just sand the whole thing, then redo it. Have never used a scraper before, will it work on the hard maple? Also, any opinion on the stain itself. I re-finished some old hard rock maple dressers years ago, and used a RO sander, and minwax stain. I was a novice then, but no tool marks showed at all.

   Thanks again, Steve

1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Jul 23, 2002 04:59pm | #9

   Learn how to use and sharpen a scraper.

   Scrape until all traces of the stain are gone.

   It will take an hour. Sanders are for lazy

   people who like scratches, or if you need to sand

   1000 feet with a real industrial machine and you know

   what you're doing. Random orbit sanders just make

   random scratches that never entirely go away. One

   single grit of your 80-grit belt caught in the fine

   disc will trash the finish. Perfect cleanliness is

   a necessity.

   Get a good fine diamond stone. Grind on the flat until

   smooth. Grind the edges perpendicular. Use a burnisher

   or the smooth end of a good drill bit. First rub almost

   parallel to the flat face of the scraper. This draws the

   edge out the wrong way. Then rub perpendicular to the

   flat face, then at a slight angle. Now you have a burr.

   The two-step burnishing bends the edge one way, then the other

   and work-hardens the edge. Much sharper and longer lasting edge.

   Either wear gloves when burnishing or be careful not to cut

   off any important body parts. Very easy to slip. You press

   HARD when burnishing. While sharpening, try to give the edge

   a very slight curve so the edges do not dig in. Practice

   on the back first. On a thin scraper, you bend it slightly

   while scraping. You'll need to resharpen it a couple times.

   You'll get a mirror-smooth finish. No scratches. When

   sharpened and burnished properly, the scraper takes shavings

   just like a plane.

1. 
   Sancho | Jul 23, 2002 05:04pm | #10

   You might be able find a cabinent shop that rents a wide belt sander and pay them to run it through for ya. The sanders have various grits and might be able to clean it up for ya. Then you can finish sand and stain ect Darkworksite4: When the job is to small for everyone else, Its just about right for me"

1. 
   RogerMartini | Jul 23, 2002 06:11pm | #11

   A scraper is the best solution here.  $6 at Lee Valley (but the burnisher will cost up to $30, plus the cost of a good file and stone if you don't have them).  Take your time with the scraper and be alert to the flatness of the surface  You may want to return the surface to flat with a large plane, as a belt sander will not generally give you a flat surface.  Close enough for government work

2. 
   sedarch | Jul 23, 2002 06:26pm | #12

   Thanks a lot. Will probably try this. Need to sand all the stain off first though. the edges have a thumbnail round over routed on them. Will this pose a problem for the scraper?

   Steve

1. 
   Squash | Jul 23, 2002 08:10pm | #13

   Hey Steve,

   Good to see that you're a perfectionist and care about your work.  The thumbnail won't bother the scraping process, however you may need to re-mill the profile once done - no big deal really.  The scraper would take off all of the stain saving you from sanding.  Sanding really isn't a perfect way of finishing... it just happens to work MOST of the time.  Scraping works best on harder woods, and you happen to be using a prime example of that.  Pick up a scraper and give it a shot.  Once you get a good burr and get the motion down - it's really not that hard - you'll be well on your way.  Just make sure to practice on some scrap before going on to the bar.  Good luck - Nick

2. 
   sedarch | Jul 23, 2002 09:38pm | #14

   Thanks.

   Steve

3. 
   TKanzler | Jul 23, 2002 12:51am | #3

   What about sending it through a planer for a cut just heavy enough to remove everything you did, and then using a scraper as NMARKEY suggests?  Just a thought...

    

   Be seeing you...

1. 
   sedarch | Jul 23, 2002 04:02pm | #5

   Thanks for the thought. Will try a random orbit sander first, since the ends are rounded and the edges are routed already.

   Steve