Toto toilet install is interesting. They have a unit that floor mounts that the toilet sits on. I had some tile done and the flange is now about 1/2 inch low. What is the best way to get the flange up higher? Do I need to be flush or proud of flush?
Also, best tile drill bits? Are masonry bits different than tile bits?
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Replies
Flange extenders are available at plumbing supply. In most cases a thicker wax seal is all that is needed for flange 1/2" below tile.
A new, good quality bit (I like Bosch) will drill ceramic tile easily; porcelain and travertine are harder, so they take longer and require frequent wetting of the bit to cool it. I am leary of using hammer drill setting on tile, at least until the hole is at least 1/8" deep - I don't like the idea of having to replace some expensive special-order tile.
Hard materials may dull your bit after just a couple of holes. I know a shower door installer who carries several new bits all the time, sometimes goes through two or three bits in one installation.
Don't forget to make a pilot "divot" with a pointed punch or nail set so your bit won't wander on you.
BruceT
Edited 1/1/2007 11:33 pm ET by BruceT999
You want the flange to be at the same level as the floor. Your's isn't so, like bruce said, get yourself a flange extension. In your situation, use two wax rings, one set direct on the flange with a rubber inner part that directs the flow down the drain. On the toilet itself, get a smaller 'wax only' ring and stick it to the bottom of the bowl just before you lower the bowl over the regular wax ring and bolt ends. Let the wait of the bowl squash the rings and carefully tighten the bolts till level.
Excess wax is not a problem but not enough is.
How about the glue in flange extenders? They have a 4 to 3 inch reduction and attached flange. If it only takes wax, that is easy. I just don't want water running under my tileThose who can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities- Voltaire
Woodway has got it right for the double wax part.
Drilling tile---- we use those glass & tile spade bits------ their cheap drill a few holes & throw em away.
Harder tile we use a spray bottle with water to keep the heat down.
I think HD & L's have the bits back in stock now---- last year we went & bought every one the had to use on Lincoln Square.
I still have about 2 dozen left, so if ya can't find any let me know--- I can part with some for beer.
“How many observe Christ’s birthday! How few, his precepts! O! ‘tis easier to keep Holidays than Commandments.” —Benjamin Franklin
Yeah, McLendons was completely out save for the mothership in Renton. Must be a lot of folks got toilets for christmas!Those who can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities- Voltaire
Generally the flange should be flush or proud of flush. On a standard install the recessed flange is usually handled with a super-thick or doubled wax ring, though there are adapters designed for this duty instead.
But the most important step is to click your heels together and say "There's no place like home."
You must be writing about the Toto Uni-Fit system, where a flange is attached to the floor and the toilet is installed above it. An advantage is that it can accommodate 10", 12", and 14" rough-ins. We have a Vespin with that system, and you should have heard the plumber cussing. I don't believe that this is one for the DIYer, and I'd recommend getting a pro to do the install. It's complicated, and I'd rather have the plumber responsible for any later problems. Otherwise, a great toilet.
That is correct. It is the UniFit that attaches to the floor. The install shows the flange in the floor up against Unifit fitting. But it appears you need to have a seal(of course) in between.Those who can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities- Voltaire