Replies

1. 
   PostnBeam | Jul 19, 2002 01:49am | #1

   We do use a laser to check the mud, then note when and how much we need to compensate....but who doesn't check the mud? You're right on though to get it fixed now-than-later attitude.

   excavator sez the concrete will fix it

   concrete sez the framers will fix it

   framers sez the rockers will fix it

   rockers sez the trim guys will get it

   trim guy sez the....wait a minute........

2. 
   jjwalters | Jul 19, 2002 02:08am | #2

   Around here most houses are built under block walls. I ALLWAYS checked the corners with a transit and also checked for square, especially porches and stuff.......then compensate with the plates etc. to get a good starting point........any thing else IMO is nuts. When the house ends up crooked YOU are the guy to get the blame.

   There are fast carpenters who care..... there are slow carpenters who care more.....there are half fast carpenters who could care less......
1. 
   BossHog | Jul 19, 2002 02:29pm | #7

   "Around here most houses are built under block walls."

   Under 'em, huh ??? I'd like to see that.....................(-:

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   (Sorry - Just couldn't resist poking a little fun)

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   Pray for the success of atheism

   Edited 7/19/2002 7:36:48 AM ET by Boss Hog

3. 
   Piffin | Jul 19, 2002 02:47am | #3

   Laser level with beam splitter is faster and a one man operation if necessary.

   Leveling the floor is the place to do it. If you wait 'till stud cutting, you've wasted lots of time.

   I find 3/4" elevation deviation in concrete within acceptable, when accounting for reality. My own work sets within 1/4" but I'm not so anal with subs. I do get bent over a wall that's two inches out of straight or a corner that's moved two inches over.

   I once built a garage over a new slab that was three inches out of square and had a hump in the center of 1-1/2" or so while one corner was 1/2" lower than the other three. And this thing was only about 14x20!

   I mentioned it to the owner so he would understand that the crappy look where I had to make corrections wasn't mine to bear.

   Seems that he held up payment to the concrete sub because of what I pointed out.

   Seems that the sub got kind of worked up and blamed me for his problem!

   Seems that he left the job site with a broken finger after shaking it in my face in a threatening manner.

   and I'm really a pussycat...

   Excellence is its own reward!
4. 
   Sawdaddy | Jul 19, 2002 02:47am | #4

   Hey aoc,

   I've used a transit several times to do just like you said. Usually I don't check the foundations before I frame on 'em but that's because the Foundation crews I follow usually do a top notch job.

   But every once in a while I have to work on a foundation that ain't so good and that transit is great. It's definetely time-consuming but if you're working with multiple height walls and a complicated roofline it'll save your butt. Especially when you have a trussed roof where you can't adjust the roof framing easily like you can with rafters.

   I tried to use a laser to do this but I didn't get the accuracy that I do with my transit. To get that accurate with a laser I had to use a target rather than just the beam and that was always a hassle. If you could use a laser though , it would surely speed things up over a transit.

   Good luck.

   -Sawdaddy

5. 
   Schelling | Jul 19, 2002 05:22am | #5

   We always check with a transit. We usually use a double sill with shims to level the floor.  If the foundation is good except for humps at the windows(They are always high there), we may just notch a few joists and use a single sill. We often cut studs if they are framed directly on a foundation. We nail in the studs, shoot the corners, and cut in place. This only works when you can easily reach the tops of the studs but makes a perfectly level wall.

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jul 19, 2002 06:21am | #6

   we used a K&E builder's transit since '75.. then switched to a laser about 4 years ago... never understood  y any1 wud build without 1  or the other Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   casey | Jul 20, 2002 01:34pm | #8

   Not to change the subject too much but...  When a foundation is out of level and needs shimming what do you use for shim?

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jul 20, 2002 03:10pm | #9

   depends..  concrete foundation....if it's way out, we might bush the high points and shim the low points with grout...

   or it might just be a couple of cedar shingle shims at teh offending foundation bolt locations....

   or we might do the bgi shimming at the sill.. and then tweak the floor joists too..

   so.. major shimming: bush the highs , grout the lows..

   wood shims : wedges cut from PT... or cedar shingle shims

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   jimatgreatwhite | Jul 21, 2002 06:28am | #10

   Mike here in Colorado we have to use steel shims between the plate and foundation. They rust but they won't crush.

   We use a auto level, used to use a laser but found I got a flatter house with a sight level. MOre time but a better house.

   Sokkia Es3 is what I have and wouuld recommend to anyone.

   JIm

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jul 21, 2002 12:44pm | #11

   jim...i'd agree the site level is more accurate... and the laser is faster... 'er half faster...

   and i agree on the steel shims... but we use those mostly under beams, say in a  beam pocket...

   long time no speak.... missed seeing you aroundMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   casey | Jul 21, 2002 01:03pm | #12

   What do you mean by bush ? Grind down?

   Edited 7/21/2002 6:12:16 AM ET by caseynick

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Jul 21, 2002 10:26pm | #13

   bush refers to reducing the surface... from "bushing" hammer... or knock it down with an impact chisel... or a pneumatic breaker...

   knock down the high spots... shim the low spotsMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore