Hey Everyone!
I’ve been reading alot of information on staircases here and I think I’ve found the place to get my answers.
I have recently been “flung” into the finishing of my house after firing the contractor I had hired to build it. THAT is another story for another time. I have completed the plumbing, drywall, electrical and a wad of other stuff so I’ve gained a tremedous amount of experience during this process. I have saved the stair case for last. Building a great set of stairs will separate the real folks from the “wannabes”. I know that. The current stair case was roughed in with 13 treads. They will have a left hand return with the wall running up the right side. The previous contractor build them with 3 carriages and used 2X10 pine for the treads and 2X6 pine for the risers. If I were to be closing them in and carpeting them, I suppose that would be fine. I’m not, so here is my question.
1. To make the oak treads I want to install fit properly and look right, do I need to remove the 2xs and install the oak treads and risers directly to the carriages, or, can I install them directly to the 2xs already there?
I know this is an amaturish question, but I’m double checking everything my ex-contractor has done. Any helpful info will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Doug
Replies
You want to maintain a consistent rise, including the very bottom and very top step.
What you call a "carriage"
What you call a "carriage" -is that the stringers with notches cut in them?
How well is that done? Do they need replacement? ask because you seem unhappy with his other work.
2x10 pine is some pretty expensive lumber. but that in combination with 2x6 risers makes it sound like your layout is about 7"/ 8"
If that is right, this is a pretty steep staircase and not one that will meet code in some places
The code that applies directly to your Q is that risers must not vary more than 3/8" from one another. So if this is built right re risers and floors top and bottom now, then adding 3/4" oak over the treads will make it noncompliant and unsafe at top and bottom
Yep, definitely check whether the staircase meets local code, in terms of rise/run. (And you may also want to check other attributes -- width, size of landings at top and bottom, etc.)
The short answer is that yes, you need to remove the pine treads and risers and start over. However, since the stringers were cut to use 2X material you'll have to shim the stringers at each step and riser so that your new oak treads are in the same position as the old ones. In other words, if your oak treads are 1" net then each tread would have to be shimmed 1/2" so the finished tread is the same thickness as a 2X.
Stairs are a very visual part of your house and have to conform to a strict code. This might be a good place to hire a pro and there would be no shame in that.
Doug
You'll need to come back with some more specifics-measurements and finishes to your floors top and bottom.
Those sound pretty steep...
If he used a 2x10 for treads, that means that your tread depth is only 9 1/4 inches. If he left an overhang on the front of every tread, then the stairs are even steeper. Do you have room to make the staircase longer? Re-doing the stringers would make for a much more comfortable staircase.
Calculating proper rise for a staircase requires that you know the difference between the two rough floors, the height of the finish flooring at the top and bottom of the staircase and the total thickness of tread materials. That is so that when you get all the finish materials on, the height of each rise is the same.
As far as steepness, the old rule of thumb used around here is a 7:11 stair is perfect. (7 inch rise, 11 inch run). I have big feet and actually prefer a 12 inch tread so that I can plant my foot on the stairs and not have the ball of my foot slipping off the front of the tread when i am going downstairs in my socks.
I am an amatuer, as you are. I built my own house from the ground up, so I have learned a lot, but stairs scared me a bit. For our house, we went with a very simple design, with a full wall on one side and a half wall on the other side. I cut stringers (after doing the math) and used 2x12s for the rough treads and 3/4 osb for the rough risers. Everything was glued and screwed. My rise is about 6.625 inches and my run is 11.25. I put the 2x12s flush with the front of the riser, so when I did my finished treads with an over hang my treads are a little over 12 inches deep. I used unfinished Oak strip flooring and a stair nosing to get an overhang. All the oak was glued down and finish nailed to hold it while the glue set. I used 3/4 shop grade oak plywood for the finished risers. This staircase is very solid with no squeaks after 4 years. It is also a very comfortable staircase to go up and down. With my 5 foot wide stairs and the extra inch of tread, I couldn't find a pre-made stair tread that would work, so we had to use the same tongue and groove strip floring that we used in the rest of the house. Using strip flooring also let us put in a walnut accent strip behind each nosing...
I included some pictures of the staircase, if that helps...
Temporary?
I am wondering if these stairs were put up intending to be temporary stairs for the construction process... That would make more sense, with the steepness and the fact that you don't have enough tread to meet code (minmum 10")...
If you would like to see the code, check this website: http://www.qis-tx.com/documents/stair.installation.guidelines.pdf it has lots of info and is a great guide for building stairs. It is 2006 code, but would be a great fererence for you. Be sure to check with your local building authority to make sure what you are doing will meet local codes and you won't be pulling out finished stairs and re-building them...