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Trex Material Question

| Posted in Construction Techniques on January 10, 2004 02:30am

I hate to ask these kinds of questions but I was wondering if anybody out there in the Northeast has a good idea of what trex goes for a “sq. ft.”? The reason I ask is I have a fella who wants a deck around his pool in trex floor boards and railings. I get a strong suspicion he is just fishing for numbers, so honestly I don’t want to head down to the local lumberyard and price out all the lenghts and lineal feet, balusters, handrails etc… I think you get the picture. This isn’t my specialty or I would be glad to do it for future reference, but I don’t want to sit at my desk for hours working up a design and all the numbers only never to hear from him again. I have the basic sq. ft. I need and for that I can figure my labor. Just hoping someone who has done a few trex jobs could give me a good ballpark figure on “sq. ft” price on material. (not LF) Thank you for helping me be a bit lazy this weekend.

Ron

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  1. dlb | Jan 10, 2004 04:23am | #1

    Just completed a deck w/ Trex decking & wood railing. Trex cost us $27.00 for a 16' board. I don't know about cost / sq.ft. Hope this helps.

    The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

  2. calvin | Jan 10, 2004 04:47am | #2

    Seek out mike smith, he'll be able to give a suggestion, either fair or foul weather.  Pro dek is another I would ask, tho he's a bunch of miles to the west.  Be wary the square foot guess, as the acouterments tend to double a price if you're not careful.  Best of luck.

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    Quittin' Time

  3. FrankB89 | Jan 10, 2004 06:17am | #3

    I've only done a half dozen Trex decks, but those I have done went a little slower than using wood planks.  With all of them, I did the rails, ballisters, etc., with wood.

    A good lumber yard will convert the price per plank to sq. ft. for you along with pieces req'd for your layout.  Price per plank will depend on color selection and thickness.  I've only used the 5/4 stuff, but, since customers wanted other than the standard gray, there was an upcharge.

    Shop around some, because Trex and Rhino plank are almost commodity items anymore and deals can be found.  Locally, for me, 12' planks run about $15-$18 each and 16's $21-24 each (5/4 basis).

    Install cost depends on the complexity of the deck layout, among other things, but in my case, (and maybe I'm just slow) adding 30% over the cost of a wood deck for install labor would be realistic.  I also use the Trapease screws which work best if you predrill.

    And Trex is made of recyclables and I've dulled more than one saw blade and ruined a roundover router bit by hitting metal imbedded in the material.

    I do like the stuff, overall.  I'm not convinced it makes the most beautiful deck, but it makes a very serviceable, spinter free, low maintenance deck.

     

    1. RonEl | Jan 10, 2004 05:08pm | #4

      Thanks for replying,Notchman

  4. User avater
    ProDek | Jan 10, 2004 07:53pm | #5

    Ron - Take your square foot times 2.2 and then divide it by 20' for each stick of Trex.

    Example - 400 sq.ft. x 2.2= 880 LF Divided by 20' = 44 pieces X $32.00 = $1408.00

    Add $200. for screws = $1608.00 Divided by 400 sq.ft.= $4.02 per sq. ft. + O&P

    a 20' piece of grey Trex is $1.60 per foot Colored Trex is $ 1.80 per foot

    Trex comes in 12' and 16' lengths as well.

    Now all you have to do is figure out your footing and framing costs, add for stairs and railing and you've got it.

    Sorry you're feeling lazy but if you really want the job you have to do the work.

    We're about $25 per square foot plus Railing, Stairs, Benches, Lights.....................

    Every Job is different and there is no cut and dry method of quoting square foot pricing on decks.

    Good Luck!

    "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

    Bob

    1. RonEl | Jan 12, 2004 11:04pm | #7

      Bob, Thanks so much for input, and I agree with the laziness remark. I know it does take work to make money. Like I was saying, I don't do deck work for a living and this customer is one of those who will drag you around the house wanting input, ideas and estimates for ten differnt things in three different rooms. I know this type and I'm sure you do to. I have a stack of work orders that are the priority right now and really can't afford the time for a "what do you think it would cost me job". the only reason I even considered the deck was i would like to use this trex, to see what it's all about . Anyway thank you again.

    2. migraine | Jan 13, 2004 05:17am | #9

      I have a question for you... If you were building a deck for yourself, what would you use?   Would you use this same product if you wanted a long life span that was also affordable?  .  What's your favorite product regardless of cost?    

      Thanks for your input in advance, Brian 

      1. User avater
        ProDek | Jan 13, 2004 07:44pm | #10

        Brian, I have a 300 sq.ft Ironwood deck on my front porch and an 800 square foot TK cedar deck on the back. The Ironwood looks ok when you first put it down but is expensive and it greys quickly. I pre-stained it before installation and the stain(Penofin) was all but gone in 4 months.Southern exposure.

        The 800 sq.ft.back deck is eight years old and still looks as good as new because I clean and stain it every year.

        The cedar deck was the most affordable and I personally like working with cedar more than any other product, but if I did it over again I would install Trex as my surface.

        The cost of Trex and Ironwood are very close.

        Trex is very quiet to walk on and trouble free. I really don't think many people look at the deck surface that much. They look out at the railing and arbors and benches first then at the deck. They might ask you how you like it, but there eyes always look back at you and what is around you.

        For the ease of maintenance and longevity my vote goes to Trex."Rather be a hammer than a nail"

        Bob

        1. xMikeSmith | Jan 13, 2004 08:54pm | #11

          glad to hear you say that.. since we only do 2  , maybe 3 decks a year.. i would defer to you.. but i come to the same conclusion...

          my deck would be Trex.. and we've done almost every kind of material there is.. PT SYP, Luan, Fir, Merante'..Alaskan Cedar, red cedar, and Ipe'...

          but for liveability and carefree maintenance, and reasonable price Trex gets my voteMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

          1. User avater
            ProDek | Jan 13, 2004 09:14pm | #12

            Good deal Mike, That's two things we agree on. The first one being our taste for salsa. By the way, are you going to be serving salsa and chips at the Rhodefest?

            If so I will be seeing you in August."Rather be a hammer than a nail"

            Bob

          2. xMikeSmith | Jan 13, 2004 11:46pm | #13

            u betcha...

            i'm wharehousing the salsa..... and...

            if the vidalias and tomatoes are in by then we may have some fresh....Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

        2. JohnSprung | Jan 14, 2004 04:16am | #14

          Does trex require expansion gaps between the planks, or can they be butted up tight?  The reason I ask is that I need to replace a second story deck that's over a patio below, and one of the issues with it is crud falling down between the planks and into a hot tub.  Or is there some better choice for that situation?

          Thanks --

          -- J.S.

          1. User avater
            ProDek | Jan 14, 2004 05:10am | #15

            http://www.dry-b-lo.com/franchise.html

            Here is a francise opportunity for you John. Nice cocept but the problem is it costs a fortune.

            The answer is NO you cannot install Trex tight side to side. It needs to expand and contract.

            I have installed metal corrigated roofing under a deck before. I attached the ledger under the deck then hinged a ledgerin front of that. I framed the roof and lifted it under the existing deck with about a 12" slope in 12'."Rather be a hammer than a nail"

            Bob

          2. Bruce | Jan 14, 2004 06:04am | #16

            Just laid down 3/4"CDX ply as the substrate for two decks that I'll cover with Grailcoat.  Waterproof, flexible, and comfy on bare feet.  Go to http://www.grailcoat.com and look for their deck surfacing info.  Why butt up boards when you can have a seamless deck surface that's waterproof as well, giving you real liveable space below?The High Desert Group LLC

          3. JohnSprung | Jan 15, 2004 04:53am | #17

            Thanks, that looks like the way to go.  They say it can be used on walls over sheathing instead of stucco, another option I'll look into.

            -- J.S.

  5. steveh | Jan 10, 2004 10:41pm | #6

    In North NJ Just finishing a Composite deck Timber Tech brand

    Deck bds 5/4x6 4.50 sf Railing 27.00 lf post covers 20.00 post caps 16.00

    Stainless nails $106.00 a 1000

    Stainless screws #8 3in ? used about 300 for rail

    box of composite screws for deck 32.00 used 2boxes

    Deck 16'x12

    1. RonEl | Jan 12, 2004 11:04pm | #8

      Thank you also Steve.

  6. KGambit | Jan 15, 2004 05:49pm | #18

    Ron,

     I just built a Trex deck last summer here in the North East. Trex is sold by the linear foot where I got it. They charged me $1.95 a linear foot. Which I thought was kinda high. After I built the deck I saw that Moinahan Lumber had it for $1.65 a linear foot.  (I got screwed, but I'll never buy it Cape Cod Lumber again.) This is for Winchester Gray, some of the other colors may be a little more money.

     After using it I gotta say, I won't use pressure treated decking ever again if I can help it.

    I don't understand! I cut it twice and it's still too short!

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