A home owner asked us to rebuild a ramp that was poorly constructed some years ago.
The ramp is used by her and lawn crew to get mowers and carts from the parking area to the landscaped portion.
In the photos the ‘side rails’ were constructed by ripping a 45 bevel one side of two pieces of TREX decking and two 45’s on a third piece. They then tried to glue, using silicone, and brad nail the strips together. Obviously they didn’t last long.
The rails are 2″ x 2″ .
The home owner likes the look of the rails and wants us to install new ones either the same or close to existing.
Question: is there anything available in 2″ x 2″ profile that would match brown decking?
If we do have to make the rails in the shop, what adhesive is best for gluing the cut edges of capped deck material?
Replies
I have had very good results gluing trex decking with "PUR" hotmelt polyurethane glue.
Greg E,
Thanks, I've heard of the PUR glue. looks like it is a good option. Besides it's and excuse to buy another tool.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Trex-Transcend-30-in-Square-Composite-Baluster-Kit-in-Vintage-Lantern-16-Pack-5444305/202950562
These might be of use
You also might get better results using products designed for railings, and make them short.
UncleMike42,
I thought about a railing kit, but since we would only be using the top rail and trashing the rest of the kit I just can't bring myself to do it.
You should be able to find just the top rail.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Trex-91-5-in-Transcend-Vintage-Lantern-Composite-Crown-Top-Rail-5444370/204301162
Thanks,
I didn't see that just the top rails were available. With this being the least amount of fabrication might be the best option.
Lock mitering the edges might work. Unholy amount of Trex dust. Never tried it on Trex but it works with Azek and their proprietary glue.
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2017/08/02/bombproof-post-wrap
PL Premium glues almost anything pretty darn permanently. Not a “neat” product, keeping it off the finished surface might be tough. Thinner will remove it before it sets. I would not miter but butt the edges (with a reveal).
Blocking between the sides of the channel would be wise.
Keeping the Zero turn lawnmowers from bashing the sides would be wiser.
How are you redoing the goofy transition of deck boards?
Thanks for input. I agree about your thoughts on lock mitering, I've done it on some PVC before, and spent more time cleaning up the shop than making the pieces, stuff just clings to everything.
I'm still thinking about options for the decorative rails. One thought is to rip 2" off each side of a deck board, glue the backs together. Then I would have 3 finished sides, and miter return the ends. Since trout season opens this weekend maybe a day or two on the river might clear my head and I'll have a eureka moment.
The goofy transition is something we'll have to deal with once we get all the old stuff cleared out, hopefully on Monday. Thinking that we may be able to shift each ramp to eliminate the angle.
Walleye are running up the river now. Best of luck for you!
before messing around with other potentially bad options, why not pull off the old deck and see what's under it(?)
quick look at it, it seems to be a paver path that terminates with cobblestone edging.
might be better to pull up the pavers and the cobblestones, regrade the base and make the existing path to create a ramp.
pull up maybe 5-6 feet of pavers, threw in some pipes to set the grade and the slope, screed the surface to what you want, re-install the pavers and you're done. use some cobblestones on the edges to hold back the grass
better look than what's there now
thinking if the change in height is about 6-8 inches, you go about 1/2 inch slope, you only need to go back 3-4 ft(?)
just some early morning thoughts
good luck