TRICKS OF THE TRADE <!—-><!—-> <!—->
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This thread is intended to be similar to the Tips & Techniques department in our magazine, just not necessarily quite so elaborate. Please restrict your posts to actual building tips only. This would exclude tips on business and tips like “where to get the best deal on whatever.†If you know a trick of the trade, especially for concrete formwork, wood framing, or interior/exterior finish, please share it.<!—-> <!—->
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Here are a few tricks to start this off:<!—-><!—->
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Formwork Trick:<!—-> <!—->
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Drilling a hole instead of notching kickers to fit stakes can prevent blow outs. <!—-><!—->
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Framing Trick:<!—-> <!—->
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A spreader can be made for trusses by turning a 2x on edge and sawing two kerfs 1-½â€ apart (truss thickness), then repeating this process at a 24†interval, and finally knocking out the lumber in between the kerfs with a hammer. <!—-><!—->
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Framing Trick:<!—-> <!—->
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Drive two nails into the same spot to help draw two pieces of lumber tight together.<!—-><!—->
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Finish Trick:<!—-> <!—->
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Blunt the tip of a nail to prevent splitting.<!—-><!—->
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Finish Trick:<!—-> <!—->
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Dip fasteners in a wax toilet bowl ring to prevent splitting.<!—-> <!—->
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Finish Trick:<!—-> <!—->
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Drill a hole in the bottom of your hammer for keeping wax handy.<!—-> <!—->
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Drywall Trick:<!—-> <!—->
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When you don’t have a circle cutter handy, use the paper you peeled off the edge of the drywall. Tear it just over half the diameter of your circles. Make a mark 1†in off one edge of the paper, and then make a mark at the distance of your circles circumference. Tap a fastener through the 1†mark on the paper into your center point you made on the drywall. Finally, poke hole through the other mark on the paper for your pencil. <!—-><!—->
–T
Replies
Man, you've kind of gotten into this List thing.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Actually, that's the entire list right there.
_______________________________________________________________
Knowledge about life is one thing; effective occupation of a place in life, with its dynamic currents passing through your being, is another.
William James
Formwork trick. After the column is nailed up and in the yoke, plumb it with a two foot level and drive a 16d nail into the corner batten above the yoke.Do the same on the other end of the same column side,Then one more on the perpendicular side.This will get the column very close for final pumbing with a plumb bob or long level.
Many times the column is way out of plumb when first set for various reasons.The steel leaning, rough finish inside the yoke etc.No need to nail into the yoke,just above it.
mike
" Drilling a hole instead of notching kickers to fit stakes can prevent blow outs."
Huh?
Must be regional terminology. What did you just say? Drill a hole in what? What is it you are stopping from blowing out? Footers or walls?
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
To brace a foundation wall form before pouring concrete, you kick the wall with diagonal braces to hold it plumb. These “kickers” are held tight between a stake in the ground and the walers (two horizontal 2x4’s held tight to the form with metal ties) bracing the form.<!----><!----><!---->
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When these diagonal braces are propped back against a round metal stake (such as when there is no bank nearby), they are sometimes notched to hold them in place. This is done by cutting a “V” groove the 2x4 with a circular saw. Instead of over-cutting, the 2x4 is flipped over and kerfs created on the underside are used as a guide to finish the cut. The little triangle is then knocked out with a hammer.<!----><!---->
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This method however, allows the board to split way too easily. If the board splits even a little bit, the notch will spread, reducing the distance between the stake and waler. If this distance is not maintained, the pressure from the concrete will “blow-out” the form, creating an outward buckle. An example of a “blow-out” can be found in January’s JLC page 51 “Managing a Blown-Out Form.”<!----><!---->
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A better method is to drill a hole in the brace/kicker a few inches from the end. Once the brace is nailed tight under the waler and against the stud behind it, the round metal stake can be driven though the drilled hole. Just before you finish driving the stake, slip a 16d duplex nail through one of the nail holes. Drive the stake until the nail is set horizontally into the hole in the kicker.<!----><!---->-T
I C - All my form guys have always used turnbuckle braces
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Use a curved roofing blade in your utility knife to strip the sheathing on romex wire when you are splicing. Much safer on the fingers.
Cabinet Hardware - don't want to make a jig for knobs everytime ? buy a plastic speed square and drill holes right in it. Tape over existing holes if next job is different. I get 7-10 kitchens out of each square. Can be used for drawer fronts too.
So this is kind of like the best place to find tricks of the trade! Oh, is that forbidden in the original post? Dang.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Williams and Hussey.Williams and Hussey.Why is it always Williams and Hussey ?Why can't it ever be Luka and Hussey ?
Sometimes its just about a good bowl of soup. Oh, and a nice sammich. Sometimes its just about a good bowl of soup, and a nice sammich.
And another thing.Is Rez razzing us, or what ?
Sometimes its just about a good bowl of soup. Oh, and a nice sammich. Sometimes its just about a good bowl of soup, and a nice sammich.
Tricks OR the Trade
Don't try to figure your jack rafters at home with Excel. : - )
Edited 2/22/2007 4:17 pm ET by txlandlord
framing trick
for window cutouts in sheathing, guy on inside pounds 8d nails into each window corner about half thru the sheet. guy on outside wraps a chalkline around all four nails and snaps each side. guy on inside pulls out the nails. guy on outside cuts with favorite method, be it circ. saw, sawzall, router, etc. and pushes it into guy on inside who stacks them up. Start with the bottom cut. You can do it yourself if you have scaffolding planks or only doing first floor. Do all of them in sequence at one time. Be careful when walking around all those nails though.
No guesswork, clean cuts, and if you saw on the line you can use the cutouts instead of burning them.
Edited 2/22/2007 9:36 am by ScottMatson
Don't need to go through the trouble of the nails and chalkline if you use a router with a flush-trim pilot bit.
You can save a lot of pounding and pulling if you have a portable drill or driver and just drill four holes for each window with a long bit.
Trenches in Concrete
This trick is not for those who "Ghitter Done!" It is only to be used when you want a repair that will be as good as new.
Don't use a concrete saw on a repair job.
A jackhammer does not burnish a slurry of old concrete dust into every open pore on the new face of the old 'crete. It also does not leave a flat ,smooth, vertical surface that does nothing to help support the new 'crete.
A jackhammered cut in concrete leaves the face with thousands of times the micro-surface area of a sawcut. On the macro level it is also a jagged natural keyway. On the micro level it goes down to actual "cement" crystals. Put a couple of samples under a mag glass or microscope and see for yourself.
.For best results: Just before the pour clean the face of the cut with high pressure air, then mist thoroughly. If you can't air clean, then use a hose and flush it well a few hours early, then rewet just before the new mud hits the face.
Leave as much existing steel in the zone as possible. SamT
Anyone who doesn't take truth seriously in small matters cannot be trusted in large ones either. [Einstein] Tks, BossHogg.
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=78971.1
I tried it before as "trick of the day"....missed you back then.
Edited 2/22/2007 12:09 pm ET by alrightythen
I just read your thread. It was good, but there are a whole lot more tricks than that. Now on to more tricks of the trade . . .<!----><!----><!---->-T
Here are a couple tricks I remember from the Larry Haun framing videos. The first I like, and the second I think can be improved upon.<!----><!----><!---->
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Turning All Fasteners the Same Direction<!----><!---->
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Pick up a handful of nails and grab hold of all nail heads at the top of your one hand with the fingertips of your other. Turn these nails around and all of your fasteners are facing the same direction.<!----><!---->
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Skipping a Step Framing a Floor<!----><!---->
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Traditionally, you would hook your tape on the end of the rim joist and pull 15-¼”, mark, and then mark every 16” from that point. This of course, creates a line to the side of each stud, and an “X” is placed on the side of the line that the stud goes. However, this requires either tacking a nail after the first 15 ¼” measurement, or having a partner hold the tip of your tape there.<!----><!---->
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It has been suggested that you can skip a step by hooking your tape on the end of the rim joist and simply marking every 16”. Joists can then be placed to the side of these lines, and the only drawback is that you will have to start your decking ¾” into the floor. “Structurally it makes little difference.”<!----><!---->
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Here’s my improvement: If you can eyeball the ¾” or ½ of the first (1-½”) stud, why not just let those 16” marks represent centers. Now your deck is no longer ugly, and you’ve even saved the time of drawing those “X’s.” This is commonly done with metal studs.<!----><!---->
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If you’re a stickler for accuracy, and you must have those lines on the exact edge of the studs, why not simply mark 15-¼”, 31-¼”, 47-¼”, and so on. Simply drop back ¾” from each 16” mark on your tape measure. The number will always be something and ¼”. You spend the same amount of time as marking every 16” mark on your tape measure, and once again your deck is no longer ugly.<!----><!---->
-T
Edited 2/22/2007 2:12 pm ET by JourneymanCarpenterT
You people and your wax!...here's a little tip: leave the wax rings for the plumbers, and off your fasteners, unless you really hate the painters <G>try something of a non-residual nature, like dri-coat, sheesh. "But to be honest some folks here have been pushing the envelope quite a bit with their unnecessary use if swear words. They just put a character in to replace a letter. But everyone knows what they're saying." Sancho
Painter or no painter, wax rings are nasty (even the ones still in the box).
Get a tube of Door Ease-well, now all you can get is a cardbd wrapped stick...........
But if you're old and wise enough, you can cram that new stick right in the old metal tube-luckily they didn't change the tooling on the stick maker. Fits like a glove.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
hey cal, I had to look that stuff up, never heard of it...whaddya do rub it on the pin and between the knuckles? jeeze, one more thing for the cosmetic bag<G> "But to be honest some folks here have been pushing the envelope quite a bit with their unnecessary use if swear words. They just put a character in to replace a letter. But everyone knows what they're saying." Sancho
Well, in my drill bag is the metal tube. For screw lube (#### the painter), anything that needs a little slip and slide. Have rubbed the pin on it, or stuck a dab up on the top barrel. Wood drawer glides, man its made for the stuff. A couple swift rubs on the drawer or slide and you'll have no more sawdust on her underwear. Edge of door, or perhaps to take that drag off a well fitted threshold.
Most easily found at a good autoparts store. Perhaps hardware-old style. There's sil-glide, but thats too soft and not as handy. The stick is like a big crayon v. the size of a push-up.
Door Ease.
The choice of the discerning carpenter.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
The choice of the discerning carpenter.Well dang, I guess that rules me right out<G>Auto parts store, huh, whoda thunk?And, what's with the agressive anti-painter stuff? LOLYou know the old saying "Putty an paint, makes a carpenter what he ain't." I am so nice to painters <G> "But to be honest some folks here have been pushing the envelope quite a bit with their unnecessary use if swear words. They just put a character in to replace a letter. But everyone knows what they're saying." Sancho
You're right. I have nothing but the utmost respect for that trade. A good paint job can often make you look good. And a great paint job enables good work to shine.
I like good electricians too.
And pretty much anyone who thinks.
That's pretty much it.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Keep the toe of your boot from wearing out by never getting on your knees. O crap that was sopose to go in the magazine. (sorry could'nt help myself)
yes I know...thought I'd get a lot more. maybe this time round you'll have better luck
JLC recently published a trick by Tim Uhler. He uses a sawzall blade to mark round holed. Put a nail through the hole in the tang and register your pencil or knife in one of the teeth on the blade.
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
when your tape measure is all worn out and its getting time for a new one, pull the tape all the way out of the case. unhook it from the spring and clamp the spring from retracting. do the same to your buddies tape when he's not looking. switch tapes.
good as new
;-)
Here's a framing tip I learned 25yrs. ago, but have never seen commonly used.
Frame house, leave out all jack studs on interior doors, frame roof, climb down, remove wall bracing, rough cut to jack size, ride skilsaw against king stud to remove bottom plate (fence is 1 1/2" from blade) trial fit the jack by placing it edge to edge to the king stud, find piece with similar crown, oppose the crowns, nail from bottom up, forcing flush as you go, presto, straight door frame. Plus, you used up all that bracing material.
That was a good one. Here’s a few more to add to the list:<!----><!----><!---->
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Roofing:<!----><!---->
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To find a centerline for shingling, first find the center of the eave, then measure out each way an equal distance. Tack a nail at both of these points. Hook a tape measure on one of the nails and walk up towards the center of the peak. Pick a number easy to remember and arc a line with a pencil. Now hook the tape on the other nail and repeat this process. Tack a nail where these two arcs intersect. Finally, hook a chalk line on this nail, bring it down to the original center mark at the bottom, and snap it.
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This technique not only creates a centerline, but also ensures that the centerline is square with the eave.<!----><!---->
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Drywall:<!----><!---->
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You know that Werner utility knife/rasp in Myron’s book; replace the standard screw with a #2 phillips so you can open it with a screw gun.<!----><!---->
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If you don’t have a toe-kick handy, use a flat bar or beater chisel over dunnage for leverage.<!----><!---->
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If you don’t feel like measuring for an electrical box, chalk the face of it. Then slap the sheet of rock against it to copy the outline.<!----><!---->
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When you need to rock up tight to a pan deck, make a template out of ¼” luan. Use two pair of dividers to transfer upper and lower contour, and connect the dots with a pencil. Cut with a Rotozip and plywood bit.<!----><!---->
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If your drywalling trusses, here’s a way to make it easy on yourself. Drive 2 16d nails at an angle up into the bottom edge of the bottom chord. Set the nails to land under each corner of your sheet and then bend them up. Set your first sheet atop the nails and fasten, pull the nails, then repeat the process until you finish the first row. This trick works for sheathing with plywood as well.<!----><!---->-T
I've used some variation of that squaring technique for many many moons on houses I frame. It's very simple, very fast and very accurate to get a square line. I can pull a square line on the most cut up houses in a hurry.
blue"...
keep looking for customers who want to hire YOU.. all the rest are looking for commodities.. are you a commodity ?... if you get sucked into "free estimates" and "soliciting bids"... then you are a commodity... if your operation is set up to compete as a commodity, then have at it..... but be prepared to keep your margins low and your overhead high...."
From the best of TauntonU.
When I used to do framing with conventional lumber, we used a variation of your nail tip. To frame stair openings, we would pound a nail half way in the top of the joist, then bend it over so it projected past the face. That way you had a "hanger nail" to catch the top of the header on the opposite side you were working on. Cheaper than an apprentice.
"If you don’t feel like measuring for an electrical box, chalk the face of it. Then slap the sheet of rock against it to copy the outline."
A wise old carpenter I knew when I was just a kid used to carry a tube of lipstick in his tote. I saw it and asked him if he was planning on go to the prom or something. He just smiled but I later saw him using it to mark a box. He'd just touch the corners of the box with a dab, and press the rock up against it and the box would be perfectly registered on the back of the board. This also makes it nicer to cut from behind so you don't rough up the front of the board too much with the saw. I used this method for years, risking having my masculinity questioned by anyone looking in my tote seeing the tube of bright red Avon lipstick. (Now I'm a rotozip convert. Only have to lift the board once.)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Here are a few tricks that were mentioned the JLC “Materials & Techniques” forum:
‘When making a "preacher," make sure you use 2X6. Also, BEFORE you make either 24" O.C. notch, carefully drive a 12d nail on each side of the notch to help keep it from splitting.’<!----><!----><!---->
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-whiskytangofoxtrot<!----> <!---->
‘Basement window install: Shim level and square, Hilti or Great Stuff Pro foam it in place, let it set up, and then screw to cement or block. It beats trying to hold it steady and perfectly lining up the screw holes. ‘Dead bolt install: With the door open, throw the latch and coat the tip with a thin skin of caulk. Flip the latch, close the door, press the bolt against the frame, and there's were you're keeper goes. It’s an oldie, but goodie.’
-M Raidy<!----> <!---->
‘Dipping screws in wax also prevents them from snapping when attaching two cabinet styles together. Well, maybe I wouldn't say it prevents it, but it does greatly reduce the chances of it happening.’<!----><!---->
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-Ottoman<!----> <!---->
‘I use a chunk of bee's wax. It definitely makes a finish nail or screw easier to drive in hardwood.’<!----><!---->
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-Overbuilders<!----><!---->
-T
Edited 3/7/2007 2:34 pm ET by JourneymanCarpenterT
Here are some tips from the JLC “Drywall and Finishes” expert forum:<!----><!----><!---->
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‘Other things that can work as a circle cutter are a paint can, a CD, or a roll of tape.’<!----><!---->
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-Mike from NH<!----><!---->
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‘Use stainless steel Allway drywall knives with the hammer head and 1/4" drive screw tip holder. I use the 3 1/2” angled, as well as the 4, 5, & 6 inch sizes. It never rusts, you can drive nails or turn screws, and the flat handle gives you more torque than an average screwdriver.’<!----><!---->
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-Kgphoto
-T
Edited 4/19/2007 1:39 pm by JourneymanCarpenterT
Here’s one of the tricks from the JLC “Exterior Details” expert forum:<!----><!----><!---->
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‘If you want every course of shingle to wind up with the exact same vertical spacing, mark a 50 ft tape measure at the manufacturers specified spacing continuously, sufficient enough to go from a typical rafter length from the eave to the ridge, with the exception of the first bottom measurement. (Remember, you have to allow for the desired overhang.) Using a 1" overhang for example, extend the tape 1" over the eave and then nail the bottom in place. Walk up to the ridge, and then go horizontally across it until one of your pre-marked spots on the tape measure winds up exactly on the ridge. Do this on the opposite side of the roof plane as well.<!----><!---->
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Now you can snap all of your horizontal lines across the roof, and you will not end up with a short row along the top course. This will not alter the manufacturers nailing pattern or sealant location significantly, but will wind up with perfectly horizontal lines. This comes into play more significantly when you have tremendously long rafters, so that the eye ball method does not create disappearing courses once you reach the top.’<!----><!---->
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-Ed the Roofer<!----><!---->-T
"When making a "preacher," make sure you use 2X6"
What exactly is a "preacher" ?
Or is that something ilke asking: "Whats's a henway"?
(-:
Our secrtary does her nails with white-out. When she dozes off, I go over there and write misspelled words on them.
I guess that’s supposed to be the proper term for what I’ve been calling a "spreader." See post #1 under the first “Framing Trick.”<!----><!----><!---->
"Henway?" Hu?-T
about 3 lbs. or so , depends on the breed.
Thanks. It’s all coming back to me now. I haven’t heard that one in a while.<!----><!----><!---->-T
What's the deal with posting the JLC info. Is this for those that aren't a pro and/or are inhibited from entering?
thanks.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
No it’s a courtesy to those who don’t frequent the JLC forums and/or don’t feel like sifting through all the small talk on each of those threads for just a few tricks. Hopefully the different tricks will also jog some memories of more tricks of the trade.<!----><!----><!---->-T
Sounds good to me.
Have you ever ventured into the prospero search area typing in key tricks of the trade words? If you could sit through it, it might yield some threads with good info.
On the tricks, I often find myself not even able to recall many when asked. But damn me if they don't come right into the mind when presented a certain task.
The good thing about all of it is the learning something new every day. After all these years, I still get chills hearing of another way to do things.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
On thetricks. When the task shows up the tricks will come. Ain't that the truth. Building stuff is as much a way of thinking as it is a way of doing.
need to attach a concrete form to an existing concrete slab, like a patio. hammer drill through a 2x with a 1/8 to 3/16 bit and drive two 16 penny in the hole. the hole small enough a dap of cement will fill.Haga su trabajo de fricken
If the caulk in the corners, is indicative if the quality of "tips" one can get from JLC I will pass. Thanks.
Nail the rim on one side of the house, lay all your I joists flat butted tight to the rim, measure in the the thickness of your rim on the other side snap a line on top of the joists then cut them. No measuring floor joists.
Nail your king studs on the headers, slide a precut to the bottom of the header and mark the bottom of the king, make the line disappear. No measuring perfect jacks.
In the holy shingles thread, no cut valleys. View Image
Shingle Vent 2 the plastic vent. I use a Positive Placement gun and 2-1/2" nails to nail it on. Huge timesaver, can't take the framing guns away from me.
Vinyl siding on dormer sides, measure the height and length at the top. Snap enough peices together for the total height. Mark the length and height draw a line with a straight edge and cut with a grinder and a metal wheel. Works perfect, no measuring individual pieces on a hot roof.
Preassembling roofs on the ground is a great one. Probably the most exciting thing I have done next to bungee jumping. View Image
Just a few I know.
Here are just some of the tips from the “Finish Carpentry” expert forum that were posted at JLC:<!----><!----><!---->
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‘I keep a couple different size washers in my bags for scribing, the smaller the washer, the finer the detail. The outside edge goes against the wall, while you hold a pencil against the inside edge, etc. Just roll it along your work piece.’<!----><!---->
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-Monty_n_VA<!----><!---->
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‘Mix 1/2 candle wax with 1/2 toilet seal wax, and it won't melt in summer’s heat. (I got this from someone's post years ago. It works.)’<!----><!---->
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-SteveC<!----><!---->
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‘Bee's wax works. If it melts too easily for you, mix it with a little paraffin wax.’<!----><!---->
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-Kgphoto<!----><!---->
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‘To keep driver bits handy, get one of those round magnets from General Tool and attach it to your bag or belt. Just make sure you use a little Loctite or instant glue on the threads.<!----><!---->
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‘I also tape all my tools with yellow tape. My partners color is red. Anyone else we hire on extended projects gets a roll of tape of a different color. Our tools never get lost whenever the subs throw down there tools in the mix. We know exactly who owns what tool.’<!----><!---->
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-GaryJR<!----><!---->
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‘Use a $20 B&D jigsaw for coping normally sized crown or bedmold. It's no Bosch but it's unbelievably light. Your arms and wrists will thank you. (Don't forget the really thin jigsaw blades.)’<!----><!---->
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-dmnoland<!----><!---->
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‘Keep a small stone in your belt for touching up your chisels. ‘A Razor knife works great for that last little shaving of trim. ‘Keep an empty drywall bucket by your chop saw for cutoffs.<!----><!---->
‘Regular #2 pencils are better for finish work. Keep a box (like the hundred counts from the office supply store) in your truck and a pencil sharpener in your tool belt, or in your tape measure. (FastCap’s ProCarpenter) ‘Keep one book for notes every day. Put dates on the cover for when you start it and when you finish it. I like graph paper composition books. I use the composition book to keep track of everything; meeting notes, quick sketches, important measurements, etc. It's always there with me in my truck, ready for me to find what I need.’<!----><!---->
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-Axis29<!----><!---->-T
I know it’s been some time since I’ve posted on this thread, but then it’s been some time since I’ve posted on any thread at all. Lately I’ve been working so much overtime, not to mention the host of other things that have been going on this time of year. Add to that the 2 – 2 ½ hour round trip I usually have to and from work, and there’s little time left for anything ells.<!----><!----><!---->
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Thanks to dovetail97128 for pointing out the erroneousness of the drywall finishing tip, I’ve just edited it out. I don’t finish drywall, I only hang it. When I saw this supposed finisher’s post, I took him at his word. The more I think about it though; it would seem that while caulking inside corners might prevent some cracking, it would also produce an off color finish. Is this correct?<!----><!---->
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Thanks Stilletto for the pictures. They really add a lot to a thread. I’ve got to get my digital camera fixed. Thanks to all for their additional contributions.<!----><!---->-T
If you are talking about caulking in a DW corner it is certainly a valid method.Not for new, but for repair.Done this more than once. Typically when removing wallpaper and then painting.If you have 2" from the door trim to the corner you can retape and mud it unless you want to remove and replace the trim.Then the trim will need repainting or at least touchup..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Here’s the rest of the “Finish Tricks of the Trade” from the JLC expert forum:<!----><!----><!---->
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“Here’s something for when you have trim being sucked too far in at the bottom because of the drywall’s beveled edge. Before installing the trim, drive 16d nails at the bottom of the wall, flush with the field (non-beveled part of the drywall) to keep in straight.”<!----><!---->
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-JourneymanCarpenterT<!----><!---->
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‘I think I read somewhere here to use drywall screws. That way you can move it in or out. Thanks for reminding me of this one.’<!----><!---->
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-Axis29<!----><!---->
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‘You might try the Trim Adjuster as well.’<!----><!---->
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-gburnet<!----><!---->
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‘You can do the same thing the Trim Adjuster does with a number 1 square drive trim-head screw. Just run it through the baseboard into the floor plate and back it out with some lateral tension on it.’<!----><!---->
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-whiskytangofoxtrot<!----><!---->
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Here are a couple of tricks if you have GCS that call you in a timely maneer. ‘1. Unless they’re installing the flooring first, mark all the studs with marking paint on the sub floor. ‘2. 2p10 glue is great for gluing up casing prior to installation.<!----><!---->
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‘3. The beveled edge on the drywall can be eliminated with a button cap. (I usually find tons of them laying outside on the ground)’<!----><!---->
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-woodhack67<!----><!---->
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‘When hand nailing hardwood trim, I drill through the material with a finish nail, and then I drive that nail into the stud with a hammer.’<!----><!---->
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-peeve<!----><!---->
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“Is coping a lot of inside corners making your forearm soar? Try clamping the trim down to a sawhorse with plastic Quick-Grip C-clamps. When hanging a heavy commercial door, roll the door into the hinge mortises with scrap conduit. Is that paraffin or beeswax reluctant to stick to screw threads? Try Akempucky.”<!----><!---->
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-JourneymanCarpenterT-T
You could use the Trim adjuster to hang doors without shims!!!I don't Know what I am doing
But
I am VERY good at it!!
Here are the rest of the tricks from Contractor Talk:<!----><!----><!---->
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‘When I’m trimming with a finish nailer, and using chisel-tip nails, I make the chisel tip go across the grain so as to cut the grain instead of not splitting it. I also do this so the nail/brad doesn't chase the grain.’<!----><!---->
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-Scott Young<!----><!---->
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‘Here’s something silly that seems to work . . . we keep a 3' length of copper pipe that we drop over our DeWalt radio antenna.’<!----><!---->
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-WNYcarpenter<!----><!---->
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‘To attach a plate of lumber to concrete: First drill a 1/4" hole through the wood and into the concrete. Then use three 10d nails (Two 16d or one 16d with tie-wire is usually used.–JourneymanCarpenterT) and hammer them in at the same time. When they’re sunk all the way in, it usually holds better than a ramset.’<!----><!---->
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-all-pro<!----><!---->
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‘When toe nailing two pieces of lumber together and you don’t want the nail to come out the back side, lay the nail flat on a board and hit the middle of it hard enough to bend it slightly. Then hold the nail with it curving toward you and drive it in. The curve of the nail causes the nail to follow the curve, not allowing it to penetrate the back of the board.’<!----><!---->
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-woodmagman<!----><!---->
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‘When setting the deck posts and beams, attach a modified boat trailer winch or other similar winching/hoisting device to the aligned center of the ledger. Precut your posts using a water level. Assemble, square, and rack your posts and beams on the ground–out and away from the house. Foot the respective posts against their footing brackets. Finally, sling a cargo strap around the beam–perpendicular to the winch–and crank away to stand up the assembly.’<!----><!---->
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-Bone Saw<!----><!---->
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‘If you ever need a small drill bit, take a nail and cut the head off at an angle with dikes or end cutters. Chuck it in the drill so that the cut end is the drill point.’<!----><!---->
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-TempestV<!----><!---->
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‘This is a trick for hand nailing trim of small size, like screen molding. Use a finish nail of the same size you are driving as a drill bit, just be sure not to push so far as to scar the would with the drill chuck.’<!----><!---->
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-Double-A<!----><!---->
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‘For stripped out door jambs, I drill the pilot hole out to 3/8", glue in a hardwood dowel, and then drill a new pilot hole for the screw.’<!----><!---->
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-skyhook<!----><!---->
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‘The faces of most framing hammers are 1 – ½” in diameter. I use the head of my hammer to gauge backing for prefabricated gables that will be craned up. It’s much easier than carrying a block with you or having to pull out your tape measure.’<!----><!---->
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-Hulk’n Out<!----><!---->-T
it has been done in Europe like that for decades. I could never find the screw here in Canada. Over there they also nail the casing on one side right away, then use the "trimadjuster" screw to hang the door, then nail the casing tight.
If you can't find those trimadjuster screws, I bet the new composite decking screws would work- the ones with reverse threads near the head. In forward, it pulls two pieces of wood together, in reverse it pushes them apart.zak
"When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin
"so it goes"
thanks, I will be looking for them here.
‘3. The beveled edge on the drywall can be eliminated with a button cap. (I usually find tons of them laying outside on the ground)’ T: I'm not following this one. Could you explain?
Ragnar,I didn't post it, but I took it to mean that he uses waste plastic caps from the foam sheathing nails to shim under his base trim so it sits plumb, rather than kicked in at the bottom due to the drywall tapered edge.Bill
Thanks Bill, that seems to make sense now.
An old trick: Let's say you need to start a nail in a spot which you can only reach with one hand. Using a curved claw hammer jam a nail into the claw, perpendicular to the handle, head tight against the hammerhead's shank. Take careful aim and drive the nail into the desired spot. Release hammer and finish driving nail.
>> If you are talking about caulking in a DW corner it is certainly a valid method.Not for new, but for repair. <<Bill,I experimented doing this in my house 8 years using caulk with new sheetrocked corners and never had one crack. I'm not saying to do this but this lasted for eight years. Not to bad for an experiment.Joe Carola
Edited 4/23/2007 6:41 pm ET by Framer
Here’s some of the Tricks of the Trade that were mentioned at Contractor Talk:<!----><!----><!---->
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‘Pushing a nail into the air valve on the female end of an air hose makes a handy blow nozzle for clearing sawdust.’<!----><!---->
-TempestV<!----><!---->
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‘When setting deck joists alone, tack a 16 to the top of the board at the opposite end and bend it over. This allows you to nail off your end, while the opposite end hangs from the rim joist. The easiest way to set deck joists is to use joist hangers of course, but this is a neat trick to keep up your sleeve.’<!----><!---->
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-WNYcarpenter<!----><!---->
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‘On new construction, brick or rock, immediately after wash-down (once it dries; of course), use a penetrating sealer on the bottom 2'. This will prevent splash-back stains from the dirt.’<!----><!---->
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-Tscarborough<!----><!---->-T
Here’s some more:<!----><!----><!---->
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‘Slap staple sill seal to the bottom plate, it keeps it in place. ‘When using TGI joists, run the far wall’s rim board first, and butt the joists up to it on layout. Then snap a line on the side of the nearer wall for length, and cut all the joists at once–a major time saver. ‘Before sheathing a wall, mark the bottom and top of the inside jack studs on the plates. Mark the plywood top and bottom when you get there. Then snap a square, cut, and nail; a perfect opening. ‘When finding a center, use two tapes and just find the corresponding marks. It’s faster than a calculator, and there’s no double checking.’<!----><!---->
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-supercrew<!----><!---->-T
And here’s one more:<!----><!----><!---->
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‘When setting pipes in your drain field, set grade stakes dead center in the trench and use plumbing strap to fasten the pipe to the top of the stakes every 10 feet. When put the stone in, the pipes stay on grade and on center. It works great for those of us that work alone.’<!----><!---->
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-ajbackhoe<!----><!---->-T
Myron Ferguson had an article a few issues back about soundproofing a room. He describes in the atricle caulking the corner before mudding. He is thatdrywallguy.com
Have a good day
Cliffy
I’m not sure if this is the same thing. From your post I gather, that the caulk is mudded over. When the house expands, contracts, and settles, the caulk would flex, but I would think the mud on top of it would crack. Yes, this technique would maintain sound proofing, but I’m not sure if it would prevent cracking.<!----><!----><!---->-T
I have never tried the caulk method, but Myron Ferguson is a drywall fanatic and master. I try not to tape. I can't say I have had any cracks that I can remember on inside corners, however I like to use steel studs and they are about as dimensionally stable as you can get.
Have a good day
Cliffy
Just thought of another one,
When splitting wood, (if anyone uses an axe any more.) just before impact, tip the axehead slightly. When it hits, the head kinda levers the split open.
I have a deck one (perhaps not necessary for the pros).
I'm often a bit leery of the concrete work because it's so final - if the footing is in the wrong place, it's a pain.
There are the adjustable mounting blocks, but I like the U-shaped saddles (we're in earthquake country here).
So, what I do is to nail the U-shaped saddles to the beam (or to short 4x4 pieces), and set the beam directly on the ground. Set some stakes to hold it plumb and level, and then pour the concrete around it. After the concrete sets, pull out the nails, install the posts, and the beam ends up exactly where you need it.
To sand thin slots. Use a grinder to shape a nail file to fit your jig saw. It works fairly well, but for some reason annoys my wife
When your partner isn't looking pour a 1/4 bottle of red chalk into each of their jersey work gloves. By the time their done shaking their hands and patting the gloves together thinking it's on the out side trying to get rid of it they'll be nicely coated and caught red handed.
Just be prepared for your pouches to be nailed to the deck when you go to put them on after lunch.
Get that green apprentice out of your hair by telling them not to come back until they find that BA eleven hundred N with string attachment that you need. (BA-ll00-N) They'll be gone for hours. It's even better when someone finally tells him to check the job trailer and they brake in on a weekly job meeting announcing their trying to find a balloon.
Just to be mean drive an inattentive laborer crazy on a concrete job by not differentiating between a board and a pan all day as in I need a 2X4, 2X6, 2X8.
Hammer and block tip: Short hardwood handrail cut-offs make ideal blocks to keep around. Since they are designed to be grasped, they are comfortable to hold--while tapping things together or apart without marring surfaces.
That’s a good tip. I keep a 6” piece of 1x3 oak in my tool belt whenever I hang drywall. It often comes in handy for persuading tight pieces to fit.<!----><!----><!---->
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Thanks for posting in this thread. It reminds me, I’ve been meaning to add a few tricks to this thread myself.<!----><!---->
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Do you need to set up a saw stop longer than your present miter saw table? Temporarily fasten two 2x4s together and attach them to the wooden fence. Then, mark and cut your first piece 1/16 or 1/32 heavy (depending on the set of your particular blades saw teeth. Now lock the miter saw‘s blade down, butt the gauge piece up to it, and mark the other end of the gauge piece on the fastened 2x4s. Finally, remove and cut the fastened 2x4s at the desired length, attach a stop at the end of them, and refasten them to the job built wooden fence.<!----><!---->
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Are you tired of getting a face full of dust every time you screw off the bottom of a sheet of drywall at an inside corner? Use the vent of your screw gun to clear the dust from the corner before you screw.<!----><!---->
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In order to screw off inside corners without removing your cone to countersink screws, rotate your screw gun at a 30 to 45° towards the wall on your side.<!----><!---->
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To hang drywall safely off of a baker, lock the front wheels (wheels closest to the wall), and leave the back wheels (wheels furthest from the wall) unlocked. Notice that if your body weight accidentally leans toward the back of the baker, you will roll instead of tip.<!----><!---->-T
Here is a card trick for you...playing cards are popular as shims (especially for hinge shimming), but they can also be handy for removing trim.
Slip a card behind the trim to be removed and then slip a second card in and then work a putty knife or 5-in-1 between the cards. Cards can make it into tighter spaces than knives, flat bars, etc. The cards also help prevent damage to walls or other woodwork.
Thanks.-T
Can't remember the measurement #'s between the workpiece and the cutting bench? Instead of using a scrap of wood, get a Formica sample square and epoxy it to the one side of your tape. A perfect little whiteboard that a little spit and rubbing on pants wipes the slate clean of all pencil marks. Been doing it for years, and everybody knows that it's my tape when they see it.Bending up multiple pieces on the brake?
Instead of measuring and marking with a tape each time, have a series of combo squares set to the correct depths and mark off with them. That way you know it will be the same exact mark every time.
Better yet, if there's a lot of bending, take the time to make up a marking gauge with notches in the shaft of the gauge where a pencil can slip into and accurately mark the same every time.
Thanks.
Here's another trick that comes to mind at the moment: If you need to remove one of those half slotted security screws (such as the kind used for bathroom partitions), grab the edges of the head with a pair of Vise-Grips.-T
I often use putty knives or drywall knives to protect walls when prying against them--but can usually only get one in to start with. Card trick is something to remember! I've also found that working in tandem really helps--pry an opening and slip even a screw driver in to hold it open, then work in a knife and slide it down and apply some pressure, move the screwdriver or flat bar towards the knife to hold the opening, slide the knife down and so on.
Hey dood !Someone broke your putty knife !!
Yeh... That'll work.
When you buy a new compressor unscrew the drain and replace it with a ball valve with a lever handle from your plumbing or automotive supply shop. Draining becomes much easier, and when it's easy you do it more often.
Another tip is pretty basic, but I find myself forgetting from time to time that brads are wider in one direction. If you are having trouble with brads following the wood grain and curving, turn the gun 90 degrees so that the wide dimension provides more resistance to bending.