This is my first trip to the site!- Anyway I am a trim contractor in Ontario and I met with a customer today who is planning a new home with a Spanish style exterior and interior. In his visits to Arizona, he has seen some ideas he (but mostly his wife!!) would like to incorporate into the home. One of the ideas is to not use casing around the doors and windows. Windows are going to be drywall returns with round corner bead – that’s easy. But the interior doors pose a bigger problem… likely the jambs will be FJP and painted with slab doors. I was wondering if anyone had some ideas / experience. All I can see is a lifelong crack at the drywall-jamb connection..
I ran the idea from a couple of months ago about no trim door jambs- no success because it still “looks” cased
Any help is appreciated.. Keep up the good work.. It’s cold up here..
Replies
3-1/2" jambs with J-metal on the sheet rock overlapping them.
Hang the jambs first - then the SR.
BTW welcome to BT!
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Excellence is its own reward!
Edited 3/3/2003 8:33:56 PM ET by piffin
Isn't any kind of DW solution going to be prone to damage? Door jambs take a lot of abuse (especially down low at shoe height) and seems to me using joint compound on the jamb (if I read correctly) isn't going to last very long. The look she wants is southwestern, I believe, though I know nothing about how they achieve it, other than maybe stucco or plaster?
Sure it is prone to damage. I'm just reporting on how it is done. Setting type compound is much harder than premixed mud though. The Trim-tex stuff is good..
Excellence is its own reward!
I've seen it done with standard jambs with a slot ripped the length on the edge. The corner bead went into the slot. I wouldn't want to try to mud it pretty. I think that's where the painter goes for the caulk gun.
" I have learned silence from the talkative, toleration from the intolerant, and kindness from the unkind; yet strange, I am ungrateful to those teachers." Kahlil Gibran
http://www.trim-tex.com/ As luck would have it, picked up this 02-03 Trim-tex catalogue. If you can find one you'll see that maybe the 350 Bull L Bead is what would work on door frames. Caution that maybe you'd have to figure a thicker jamb or a way of returning the jamb so the drywall would lay over the returned extension. The bull L could then be set back for hinge placement and the end of the drywall would be capped. Caulk the end of the bead to the jamb. I'd contact them and ask for a better explanation of the pictures in the catalogue that seem to show what you're after. 800-874-2333 Best of luck.
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Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
The J bead might work, though it might eventually show a crack along the metal and the wooden jamb. We trim a lot of windows with sheetrock returns, and the joint between the rock and the windows is always cracking, Durabond doesn't stop it, and there's no slamming action. StraitFlex is another place to check out (I haven't looked for your application). I've seen "Southwest" (or as close as NC can get to it) trim done with a 3/4" round over on the outside of the casing, 3/8" on the inside of the casing and the jamb edges.
Ya know, when I was out west, I don't remember seeing what your client wants, could it be some mythical, idealized style...or maybe it was "ranch"? Yeehaw, and good luck.
EliphIno!
Tickyboy, what I use is a kerfed Jamb, as someone had mentioned earlier, and if they ask you, at your door supplier's "Do you want a shallow or deep kerf?" tell them deep, even if they don't ask you , still tell them, you want a deep kerf cut into the jambs, yes both sides, and both heads. You will have to hang all your doors first, take no short cuts with this application, spare no shims either. Pull all doors, before start of Drywall, be nice to the drywall stocker's, and have a talk with the hanger's. Other than that, you won't lose any sleep, once you find a place to store the doors. Try not to worry about how they will all fit back in their respective hole's, for not all of them will, unless your living right, and just plain blessed by the door Gods. Jim Jensen, Central Arizona
Wasn't there an article in the last FHB about this?
Hallucinating again maybe, Joe H
Edited 3/3/2003 11:44:32 PM ET by JoeH
Piffin described it the way I was taugh to do it when working in the Phoenix area.
In my experience: yes, the joint between the J-metal and the jam will crack. yes, the metal can get dinged. yes, the ladies like the look when they see it in the model home.
I did several by this method. Just for reference, we figured that it cost about the same (T+M) as the more common paint grade casing style.
Also did one with stain grade jam and doors. That was a big hassle!
Average Joe says:
I'll wait here while YOU go wrestle the wild alligator.