Assisting in trimming out a room that was framed with metal studs. Any Recomendations on how to “nail” baseboard, crown, and Pre Hung Door(s) w/ casing in place..Basement application, Drywall complete, no exposed studs for backers
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Eric,
Investigate "trim head" screws. They have a very small square drive head and fine threads for grabbing the metal stud
Edited 4/7/2006 1:22 pm ET by DJH
I've done a lot of metal stud framing on non load bearing walls instead of using trad 2x4's. To use metal studs you need to add what we call here in the NW a "wood buck" which is the RO that is lined with wood backing (usually a lower grade of wood stud screwed onto the back of the metal stud. Does your door/window opening have wood bucks? If so It should be no problem fastening trim to it. If not............well....you have to get creative at the expense of what it should look like. If you don't want to use trim heads, which in my opinion leave a big unsightly gapping hole that you have to fill with something, try applying some construction adhesive to the back of the trim and cross nail it using the same nail hole periodically with 2" pneumatic gun nails in the same layout and pattern as if you were shooting straight in to the trim. Use the faster set constructive adhesive instead of the standard issue tubes. you should be fine if it's just door and window trim. And you should be fine on base and crown too but an occaisional trim head in a stud for the crown might not be a bad idea incase somebody wants to hang a heavy picture or clothes off of it.
As for the pre hung doors, try taking the stops off the jamb and predrill and countersink four or fine small holes through each side of the jamb and your shims. Screw the holes in the groove where the stop sits and screw the jamb and the shims to the metal studs with a 2" or however long, fine thread sheet rock screw into the metal rough opening. Then re-apply the stop and that door will have to burn cause it won't fall down on its own.
I just had another idea for the crown modling. Snap a line with white chalk if it's already painted or laser it at the elevation of where you are going to put the crown. Then cut some 18" wood blocks at the same angle of the crown when it sits on the wall. Screw those blocks on at regular spacings and corners then shoot your crown on with a finish gun at those blocks and fill small holes like you would ordinarily.
BjR
Edited 4/7/2006 2:18 pm ET by BjR
BjR
Thanks for the tips. Eric, the original poster, is also looking for help with baseboard applications. Any thoughts?
Same same. Construction adhesive and cross nailing it should be fine. If he really wants/needs to make it bomb proof I know of one technique an architect I worked with once that drew up a sketch of spec's for me to plow out the back of the trim to accommodate a plywood backer that was applied to the wall so the base could be attached to that with pin nails but believe me it was a colossal pain in the a$$ and I wouldn't recommend it unless he's got a blank check to do the trim package. Another time an owner wanted the bottom 2-1/2 inches of the drywall cut out and screw in some 5/8" plywood strips onto the metal studs then the 3-1/2" wood base would cover the transition of the 5/8"drywall to the 5/8" plywood strips. Another colossal pain in the a$$. But the fast set construction adhesive and cross nailing really works fine for non demanding conditions.
If for some reason the base separates from the wall after the adhesive is applied and is crossed nailed you can take some hot melt adhesive and squirt behind the puffed out section then push it in and hold it for just a few seconds until the hot melt sets then re-cross nail it.
>>"Construction adhesive and cross nailing it should be fine."
I have a box of trim head screws rusting away in my basement which will never see the light of day again. I do it like you and some of the other guys describe. Trim head screws are for the birds, plus they don't really hold that great anyway. Glad I'm not alone doing it this way. ;-)
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
Thank you that was some great advise... Looks like I am gonna have to get some fast set PL xxx and cross nail
regards
e
Senco makes (or used to make) some kind of hardened finish nails which could be used in a regular nailer which work pretty well.
Elliott
Eric,
I trim out alot of old buildings.One thing I really like for tall baseboard which alot of times is warped is to install 1/2" plywood; 1/4" shorter than the height of the trim to the studs followed by the 1/2" drywall.Gives me full surface area in which to fasten my trim.Yes! Hope this helps. Gregg