I ran across an old thread on fiber cement from you. I am thinking about doing the same with the trim over the planks due to having only foam sheathing on the house and no extra framing. did you end up doing that trim application? I would be very interested in knowing how things turned out. the hardi manual says it can be done.
thanks,
bastiat
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Replies
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Brad,
As Mike described the flashing detail above that bottom band, you should be pretty safe from any water trying to gat behind that bottom band.
Also that procedure of putting the vertical corner boards over top the siding, that might be a regional thing. Maybe it is a time saving thing? I agree with you on your concern about those tiny little homes you create for bugs. Filling them in would be harder and less attractive than just not going that way to begin with. Like the previous replies suggest, but them siding board up against the sides of them trim boards.
Also placing siding over vertical strips to create an air space behind siding , I would think makes more and more sense in rainier climates (like yours). I have yet to see anyone in Iowa use this detail.
Good luck with your project. It is nice to hear tips on this exciting product.
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I have been fighting with this very question for some time, but it's time for me to poop or get off the pot. Tree seems to be a feasible option except for the price. I have come to the conclusion that I am going to glue (liquid nails) 3 pieces if 5/16 lap together for a 1 inch board, rip it to the width I want, and I'm done. I talked with Hardier today, and they do not object. I will be a lot of work, but I too want all fiber cement outside. Thoughts?
*go for it... me.. i'll stick to GP-prime trim....
*What's the liquid nails going to do to your blade? I've been thinking about metal corners but I still need to trim the windows. Are you going to use the primed or unprimed to laminate? Do you think you'll be able to squish the planks evenly together for that long of a run and still come up with 1 inch thick? Let me know how it turns out.
*What is tree?
*Typo....should say Trex.
*Liquid Nails will be so thim I do not suspect any cutting/saw effect. I think unprimed smooth would be best for this lamination. Re the squish question, I intend to set up a narrow bench, glue, then clamp with a 2x on top of lamination.
*Brad, there has been a tremendous amount of discussion about this matter in these postings in the past, you may want to check the archives. I personally have done a lot of experimenting with hardie-plank and different products for corner boards, trim, etc... I finally arrived upon the decision that Trex worked the best and gave me the most peace of mind as far as longevity . The only downfall is the fact that you must countersink and screw the corner boards together instead of nailing them. Alittle bit more labor but in the long run it will last at least as long as the hardie-plank I have to agree with Dave K. I saw this type of detail in Texas, but have never run across it here in Iowa.
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I've finally made up my mind to use fiber cement siding. Rot resistance and material cost were big factors. My wife bought one of those shears for me and it's actually fun to use.
I want to put the trim pround of the siding to avoid additional framing in the corners(the sheathing is already covered with Typar) and I thought it would give more water protection than relying on caulking with butt ends against the trim. I notice the siders around here that do put the trim on proud just leave them open. I haven't seen em do it with fiber cement though. I want to seal under the trim to reduce wind blown rain infiltration and reduce spider habitat. I was thinking about cutting down beveled cedar siding to put under there but that seams way over the top labor wise and it requires more nail holes near the corners to hold the cedar "shims" in place. I was wondering if there is a foam or similar product (besides caulking) that I could squirt in the cavities to keep out the bugs and water.
I also want to put about a 12 inch hardi plank band around the bottom and then just start the lap above it. It will get splashed with water quite a bit. Do ya' all think I should put it on top of lath strips so it can breath or should I just nail it against the Typar and osb sheathing? I saw the discussion about the bands with slabs using preasure treated 2X material but I thought the fiber cement wouldn't wick as bad and would hold paint better. The bottom of the band will be just 6 inches from grade.
Unfortunately, hardi trim isn't available in Washington yet. I hear it's just in Texas and California. I want to stick with the same material so I was thinking about useing 5 1/4 hardi plank for trim. It's a bit thin and I'm afraid it'll bend in and out as it gos up the lap. The article in Fine Homebuilding was very informative and sugests a number of different products but like I said I am trying to stay with fiber cement. After the past problems with fiber and glue siding I just don't trust it exposed to water.
*Are you saying you want to put the Hardiplank on and then install trim over this? That's how I read it, but not what I call "proud".Maybe confused,MD
*.. i understood the same thing as maddog....u don't want to that.. use a spline on you corners, and install your corner boards.. my favorite would be a 5/4 x 4, 6, or 8 inch....i wouldn't use just Tyvek behind my corners.. i would put tyvek on but i wud also use a spline and then butt the cement plank ( and there are other great cemnt plank mfr's besides hardie). to the corner board .. leaving a slight caulk space....if you want a water table .. follow the mfr's instructions for minimum distance to grade....i like GP-Prime-trim.. but you could use cement plank as u suggested, but the detail ur leaving out is the water-table.. a little 1x2 bevel piece that sits on top of the 1x12 (or 1x8) at a bout a 30 deg. pitch... with a flashing on it.. and then ur lap-siding starts above that...it's a fairly common detail on clapbaord siding houses of colonial design...
*Yes, that was what I was trying to say. Some people do that around here, specially with cedar. I don't know what the detail looks like under the trim. They could be using metal outside corners (?splines?). I just thought it would help to protect the corners a little more then butting them against the trim. Looking for input. Let me know what you think.
*Let me see if I got this right.I need to put 15 lb felt paper on my corners on top of the Typar. I like the added protection. I was undecided about doing that but you just convinced me.It sounds like you don't like the idea of putting the trim on top of the hardi plank lap. I should butt the lap against the trim with a gap for caulk. that's what the manufacturers suggest. It just seemed to me that putting the trim on top of the lap would give me more protection but I haven't seen anybody else do it with fiber cement.I used Certain Teed's fiber cement planks for soffits with aluminum vent strips in the middle. So far I like Certain Teed and they are a little cheaper.I am barely going to have 6 inches from grade to the bottom of the band. That's what the manufacturers recomend. It's still going to get splashed on at the gable end sides of the house though. Do you think it is ok to put the band right against the paper and osb or should I put some lathe under there so there will be an air space between the band and the house wrap covered sheathing?For the flashing on the 1X2 bevel, is that metal or felt? And how wide should it be? Do I need to cut the house wrap and put the top of the flashing under it? Since the fiber cement boards are only 5/16 thick should I cut the 1X2 down to 5/16 or leave it 3/4 inch?I'll look into the GP-Prime-trim. It looks like we're stuck with primed wood or engineered wood until fiber cement gets production up on their trim stuff.Thanks for the reply. Hope to hear more from ya.
*Any thoughts on "weaving" the corners and doing away with the splines or trim boards? I finished like this with doubleTyvek at the corner and primed the ends well. All this talk of water intrusion at the corner has got me spooked on my application. If this was a master bugger what can I do to minimize potential intrusion. The corners done were on the lee side of the prevailing weather.
*brad... metal flashing... for details... assume u are a drop of water that has penetrated the siding at the top and u are rolling down the tyvek in the back of the siding..all of your details should make the water exit..nathan...sounds like your corners will do fine... a lot of the guys on this board have thot about weaving but they didn't like the mind picture they have of the finished installation...y don't u take a picture and put it up so we can see ?
*Brad,FCP makes a 7/8" trim board (fiber cement) that will give you the look you want w/o having to layer things underneath the thinner 7/16" hardie trim. FCP markets their products as cemplank, cemtrim, etc....You can find them at http://www.cemplank.com.I'm using their trim on my house and doing the water table, corner trims, window casings, freize board, rake trim etc....all the neat colonial type trims. We're using hardie plank for the claps though. No reason, it's just what the lumber yard carries. We're having to order the cemtrim though.
I ran across an old thread on fiber cement from you. I am thinking about doing the same with the trim over the planks due to having only foam sheathing on the house and no extra framing. did you end up doing that trim application? I would be very interested in knowing how things turned out. the hardi manual says it can be done.
thanks,
bastiat