Replies

1. 
   DonCanDo | Oct 31, 2007 07:00pm | #1

   One possiblity is to use plinth blocks for door casing and rosettes for windows.

1. 
   steve801 | Oct 31, 2007 11:52pm | #2

   thanks.........i guess that means the casing will be flush with the wainscot.......

1. 
   Mongo | Nov 01, 2007 12:02am | #3

   Plinth blocks are easiest. Good recommendation

   You could also add a 1-3/8ths to 1-1/2" backband around the door casing. That could be a consideration should the top rail or cap rail on the wainscotting stand proud of the dor casing as well.

   I do that often. If adding a backband that in this canse will stand 3/4" proud of the door trim, you might want to add one more piece of trim to fill the inside corner made up from the existing trim and the new backband.

   Mongo

    

1. 
   steve801 | Nov 01, 2007 01:29am | #6

   So is the back band the same as an outside corner molding? My other consideration, and tell me if this is too “funky”…I was thinking about running the wainscot onto the door jam, with a little reveal and a nice finished edge, just like where regular casing would end. Followed by the cap rail on top, with a return...then I would add the regular casing above the cap rail…..in effect just using casing on the upper half of the door….how do you think that would look?

1. 
   DonCanDo | Nov 01, 2007 02:28am | #7

   Back band is not the same as outside corner molding, but it is similar in that it wraps around the casing.  Usually back band is used with stock material, but it should work with colonial casing.  It won't look right with clamshell casing.

   Here's a picture:

   View Image

   As for paneling to the edge of the door... don't do it.  It will look funny forever.

   You may want to look into non-standard casing.  I'm sure it can be ordered in thicker sizes.

   Edited 10/31/2007 7:28 pm ET by DonCanDo

2. 
   steve801 | Nov 02, 2007 05:12pm | #12

   thanks for everthing don........the back band is the ticket.

3. 
   Mongo | Nov 01, 2007 07:00am | #8

   I never answered the second part of your question.I have used the bottom rail of the wainscotting as the "baseboard".Do set the top of the bottom rail level. Shim underneath as required. Then run a pencil compass or something similar along the floor to draw a scribe line on the bottom edge of your bottom rail.Cut to the line, and when the bottom rail is set on the floor it should follow any dips in the floor and be level on top.It's a clean look. Should you not want to scribe, you could add a shoe mold instead. Slightly messier.Mongo

2. 
   GregGibson | Nov 01, 2007 12:09am | #4

   Hi, Steve, and welcome to Breaktime.

   Sounds as though your work is well along the way, but I generally remove the drywall first.  I think that's commonly the way wainscot is done.

   Greg

1. 
   steve801 | Nov 01, 2007 12:55am | #5

   you are correct as i replaced the drywall with 1/2 plywood...........

3. 
   brucet9 | Nov 01, 2007 07:15am | #9

   You can get 11/16" thick pre-primed S4S MDF or FJ pine in widths of 1 1/2", 2 1/2", and 3 1/2". You could case the doors and windows with the appropriate width S4S and apply your profiled casing over it with outer edges flush. You wouldn't even have to miter the S4S, since the joint would be covered by your mitered casing.

   A client has me installing factory-made MDF wainscote that has a 1 3/4" top cap. They want the top cap to die into door/window casings so I'm boxing out 2" deep, 3 1/2" casings of S4S MDF with a 1/4" cove running up the corners from just above the 6" baseboard to just short of the corners.

   BruceT
1. 
   steve801 | Nov 02, 2007 05:10pm | #11

   thanks for your insight......

4. 
   catfish | Nov 01, 2007 12:46pm | #10

   How about a backband around the casing?