FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Trim nailer/stapler.. what to get

| Posted in Tools for Home Building on July 24, 2004 07:17am

I may be re-doing ALL of the trim in my house.. base boards and around all the doors, and then some crown molding in the bedroom.  I need some kind of nailer for this.  I have a large 29 gallon air compressor which is not very easy to move around the house, so I’m kind of starting from scratch.  Or I could just get another 100′ of air hose to add to the 50′ I have, and run it through the house.  Otherwise…

I’m looking at the Paslode stuff, or just picking up one of those small 4 gallon round compressors and a nuematic nailer.  I’m looking to get something from HD or Lowes.

First question is, what’s the best type for the job?  Is this a job for a 16g finish nailer?  Or are staples better?

Assuming finish nailers are the way to go, the Paslode kit is about $370.  For $300 I can get a Porter Cable 4 gallon round compressor and a finish nailer kit.  This gives me a portable compressor that I can hook other types of nailers up to if necessary.  I guess my biggest question is, how is the quality of the PC nailers and compressor?  The other brands HD/Lowes carriers are primarily Bostitch and Hitachi.

What’s the best route to head?


Edited 7/24/2004 12:24 am ET by ESM

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. User avater
    jonblakemore | Jul 24, 2004 07:51am | #1

    If I were you, I would buy a cheap 100' hose and a PC 16 ga. nailer. 16 ga. is a good compromise and one nail size will simplify your life. Since you already have a good compressor, why spend more money. A cheap hose will not be flexible and might not seal well, but you won't be movin it much.

     

    Jon Blakemore

    1. User avater
      JeffBuck | Jul 24, 2004 09:46am | #2

      I'll disagree just slightly ...

      since my favorite gun is my 15g Senco ...

      I vote for more hose and a new Senco ...

      but ... Jon's 16g will get ya thru too ...

      actually .. a hammer and a box of 4's and a box of 8's would do ...

      throw in some 6's and yer really living ...

      JeffBuck Construction, llc   Pittsburgh,PA

           Artistry in Carpentry                

    2. Fingrs | Jul 24, 2004 04:54pm | #3

      My vote would be a long hose and the 16ga finish nailer for casings and the like, plus an 18ga brad nailer (I like my PC) for quarter round and other small stuff.  While I do mostly furniture, I rarely use my finish nailer;  the brad nailer is a permanent fixture on my workbench.  The new PC 18 ga can drive up to 2" brads, I believe...mine will only do 1 1/4", which still seems to be fine.

      I now have a small compressor (my first) and a large capacity unit.  The little guy has not been used since I got the bigger one.  It works fine for nailing, but every time it kicks in I jump about 18", usually in the wrong direction.  I'd say forego the small compressor if your big one will suffice...and if you are working close by the big boy.

      Last week I picked up a Flexeel air hose, and boy is is sweet!  Small, flexible and light.  Not cheap, though.

  2. reinvent | Jul 24, 2004 05:13pm | #4

    Definetly get a 15g finish nailer. Also get a 100' of large id hose (the larger id will counteract the preasure drop you get in long runs). Then get a 25' flexeel to conect to your gun.

  3. MojoMan | Jul 24, 2004 07:50pm | #5

    I have a 15 ga Bostitch finish nail that has served me well for about 10 years. I just had it repaired (air leak around trigger) at a professional tool shop. The tool guy told me my repaired old gun is now much better than the new Bostitch units.

    I use inexpensive polyelthylene hose. I don't remember what it cost, but it couldn't have been much. When a leak develps at the fitting, I simply cut it off, heat the fitting stem with a flame and shove it back in. Good to go!

    Al Mollitor, Sharon MA 

  4. gdavis62 | Jul 24, 2004 08:43pm | #6

    I have finish guns in 15, 18, and 23 gage.  My next will be a 16.

    For what you want to do, get a good 16 gage finish gun, but get it in a model that shoots the longest nails available.  That shoud do everything you want to do.

    As for air, you have a nice big compressor with oodles of capacity.  Just get more hose, as everyone is saying here.  Get a nice 100 footer in 3/8", then one of the 25 foot blue flexeels.

    You will be in heaven.  The flexeel is easy to whip around a room, and the compressor will be far away.  The few times it will need to run, you won't even hear it.

    1. ESM | Jul 24, 2004 10:30pm | #7

      I'm still torn between hose + gun or the Porter Cable combo kit.  The PC kit is the 4 gallon round pot compressor and a finish nailer, $300.  The nailer itself is about $189 to by seprately.

      Hose will cost me $50 with the fittings I need and the gun around $200, so costs are similar.  In one situation I can probably get a better gun (will probably choose Bostitch or Senco, leaning towards Senco at $240), but in another case I have a portable air compressor.  Not sure which is going to be more valuable long term.

      As for guage, most people are saying 15ga instead of 16ga because it's more versatile for other work I may do with it.  Is this really the reason to go 15 over 16?

      1. CAGIV | Jul 25, 2004 12:44am | #8

        Spend an extra 25 bucks and get the senco 16 and 18 with a small compressor

        http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B00022HNG0/qid=1090705047/sr=1-8/ref=sr_1_8/104-8542426-8431960?v=glance&s=hi

        might want to call toolcrib and make sure both of those guns are included in the deal.

        800 884 9132

        but for the money it isn't a bad little combo pack, 350-minus 25 bucks with the current promotion, so 325 for 2 guns a baby compressor and a short hose.

  5. davidmeiland | Jul 25, 2004 01:35am | #9

    If you're setting up for a while, a big compressor is fine. If you do a lot of moving around, a small one is easier on the back. Right now I'm using the big wheelbarrow and running two 50 foot hoses to the work area. Then I put in a manifold with three outlets and run a pair of 25 foot lightweight hoses to a pair of guns--usually one Senco finish nailer and one Paslode brad nailer, but sometimes a stapler gets in the mix.

    Having the compressor far away is good. Sometimes it's not even necessary to get it out of the truck. Why carry it upstairs? Why listen to it run? And definitely don't run 200 feet of thin extension cord to your compressor.

    My finish nailer is a SFN40, which is not current production, but shoots 1-1/4" to 2-1/2" nails and is the right nailer for just about all trim. Some folks like to nail their trim with 1/4" crown staples. Make sure your painter knows about it.

    1. raybrowne | Jul 25, 2004 02:15am | #10

      I'd go with a 15 or 16 gauge gun and just run a cord from your current compressor, don't go with a 18 gauge or a stapler. I've found that I always felt better shooting the bigger fastener.

      -Ray

      1. ESM | Jul 25, 2004 06:03am | #11

        That Senco kit from Amazon looks very good.  16ga and 18ga nailers and a 2 1/2 gallon compressor for $325 shipped.  I noticed that neither gun is an angled unit, and many people recommended an angle guun.  Is having a straight gun going to hinder me?

        1. gdavis62 | Jul 25, 2004 06:11am | #12

          If I were you, I would jump on that deal from Amazon/ToolCrib.

          But extend yourself and get a 25 foot eel hose. 

          Don't worry whether the nails are collated straight or angled.  I have found that in most all trim work, a straight gun will do just fine.

        2. DougU | Jul 26, 2004 04:59am | #13

          I'm with Bob D. on this, sounds like a good deal, you wont have much problem not having an angled gun, you can usually figure out a way to get that nail in!

          The one thing that I wondered about though, is the guns with that outfit the original Senco guns or are they the ones that are replaceing the Accuset guns that Senco discontinued making? There is a difference. The better Senco's do not use oil, where as the "homeowner" ones do. Dont know the #'s for the different guns.

          Doug

          1. ESM | Jul 26, 2004 05:28am | #14

            The kit comes with a FinishPro 18 and a FinishPro 32, both appear to use oil.  Looks like I may pass on it.  I'd rather spend more and have one quality oilfree gun for now, since I don't need multiple guns yet.

          2. CAGIV | Jul 26, 2004 08:26am | #16

            Both of those guns do use oil, the 32 is a 16ga nailer which is why it has a straight magazine, I'm not aware of a 16ga nailer with an angled magazine.  I do own the 18 and it's been a truly reliable gun.

            You can go oil-less with a senco 15ga, 41xp and the 18ga 25xp.

            I have the 41xp and again it's been a trouble free gun.  I don't really see the necessity to having an oil-less gun, they are mostly new inovation from what I know.  I have 4 senco guns, only the 15ga is oil-less.  I've also owned serveral oiled guns and never had a problem with oil coming out and staining wood.  So long as you don't over-oil and don't use excessive pressure and blow seals it shouldn't be a problem either way.

            I know the 18ga in the kit is a good gun and judging from my experience with the 4 senco finish guns I have I'd bet the 16ga the kit comes with is high quality.

            either way you go I think you'll be happy with the senco guns, I'd lean toward a 15ga and some hose if I were you, but that kit does have an attractive price and the guns are probably pretty solid.

          3. DougU | Jul 26, 2004 01:51pm | #17

            CAG

            I think senco started making the oil guns when they quit making the Accuset brand, not sure if thats correct though, but it did happen about the same time.

            Accuset was an alright gun, just more of a home owner tool, not quit the same as their Senco brand.

            I've had the 15g angle Senco finish for a long time, its oil-less, never had a problem with it. At the place where I work they have a bunch of the Accuset guns, they take a beating, some even still work!

            The oil-ess is not only a convienece of not getting oil on your material, its a better design, I think thats what makes it such a good gun.

            BTW, I dont ever see a problem with oil on the material when I use a gun that uses oil.

            Doug

          4. ESM | Jul 26, 2004 02:36pm | #18

            The common thread I see through all my nail gun posts on various forums is 15ga, so I'm pretty sure I'll spend the money on the Senco 41XP (or perhaps  Bostitch, have to put themi in my hand) and a 100' spool of hose.  Together I'll spend about $300 with fittings.

            I just want to re-verify however, that for crown molding, 15ga will be good?  Would I go for the longest nail for crown molding like I would for trim?

            Also, what other type of wood work would 15ga be adequate for.  Is it a good size if I was building some boxes out of some 1/4 or 1/2" MDF/plywood/some other wood?

          5. marv | Jul 26, 2004 04:04pm | #19

            15g is ok for heavy trim, but for fastening the door casing to the door jams, you should have a lighter gage.  I use 18g.

            let me clerify.  15g for outside of door casing, 18g for inside of door casing.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.

            Marv

          6. ESM | Jul 26, 2004 04:32pm | #20

            When you say inside of door casing, are you talking about the pieces were the door hindges actually screw into?  And when you say outter, do you mean the trim that surrounds the door on the face of the door to hide the gap between door jamb and the wall ?

            Is 16g OK for crown molding?

          7. davidmeiland | Jul 26, 2004 05:09pm | #21

            Depends a little on how you install the crown. We rip bevelled backing material on the table saw, cut it into chunks, predrill it, and then screw blocks to the wall against the lid every 16 to 24". Make a small mark everywhere there's a block so you know where the nailing is when nailing up the crown. Shoot a pair of 2.5" nails thru the crown into the blocking. For me it's faster and easier to do this than think about where the studs are, and in half the ceiling area there aren't joists/trusses to shoot for anyway.

            I thought you said you were going to pop for the angled pro Senco gun... in which case you will be shooting the same .069 diameter nails that are a basic item on just about every pro jobsite. I guess they're 15 gauge but it doesn't say that on the literature that came with my gun or anywhere on the Senco nail boxes I have.

            Someone else said shoot the casing into the jamb with lighter nails. Not sure I agree.... I usually do that with 1.25" nails out of the same gun. It depends on the shape/dimensions/species of the materials. You are depending on a good connection there to stiffen the jambs, especially where hinges and latches are.

          8. marv | Jul 27, 2004 12:14am | #22

            This is how I do it.  a 15 gage nail on the thin part of the casing will sometimes split the wood.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.

            Marv

          9. User avater
            JeffBuck | Jul 27, 2004 07:40am | #24

            This is how I do it.  a 15 gage nail on the thin part of the casing will sometimes split the wood.

            Turn the gun 90 deg ... splits are gone.

            I do most all my trim with the 15g ... if it's an angled mag ... it's 15 ... someone asked about that ...

            I will reattach the trim on a split jamb with my stapler  ... because that's what they used at the factory? Unless ... my 15 is sitting there right next to me ...

            I use 2.5's on the outside of the casing and into the framing ... 1.25's into the jamb.

            I haven't had ... or missed ... my 18 g for some time now ...

            that tools replacement money went to the narrow crown stapler ...

            all the fine line stuff gets a 23 g and glue ...

            hey ... I just might have talked myself into the next tool purchase ... an 18 ...

            it'll be senco ... it'll be oil less ...

            Jeff

            Buck Construction, llc   Pittsburgh,PA

                 Artistry in Carpentry                

          10. marv | Jul 27, 2004 03:56pm | #25

            Jeff-

            Do you change nails in the middle of the job or have two nailers?You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.

            Marv

          11. User avater
            JeffBuck | Jul 30, 2004 05:33am | #26

            I have one each of the 15g, 23g and stapler ...

            I swap out nails in the 15g ... 2.5 and 1.25 as I go ...

            nail around the jamb ... then nail around the outside ..

            then move on to the next door.

            With the Senco I have ... takes about one mil second to swap then out.

            JeffBuck Construction, llc   Pittsburgh,PA

                 Artistry in Carpentry                

          12. User avater
            jonblakemore | Jul 27, 2004 04:08am | #23

            Pasolde has two cordless 16 ga. guns. One is straight and one is angled.

            Something to keep in mind when considering the two. The angled nails are about 50% more, with no competition currently. 

            Jon Blakemore

        3. davidmeiland | Jul 26, 2004 07:42am | #15

          I've gotta think those tools are the low-end stuff. All three for $325, but a good Senco nailer is probably close to $300 by itself, and so is an Emglo pancake. If you're DIY and not going to use them continuously, OK, but if you need reliable daily use I'd spend more, or at least try to read some reviews on those specific items first.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Grout-Free Shower Panels

Engineered-stone shower panels are waterproof, but proper installation relies on tight seams and silicone sealing.

Featured Video

SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than Before

The 10-in. Jobsite Saw PRO has a wider table, a new dust-control port, and a more versatile fence, along with the same reliable safety mechanism included in all SawStop tablesaws.

Related Stories

  • How Trump's “Big Beautiful Bill” Will Affect the Inflation Reduction Act
  • A Drip-Free, Through-Window Heat Pump
  • Podcast Episode 690: Sharpening, Wires Behind Baseboard, and Fixing Shingle Panels
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Hand Tool Sharpening Tips

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Old House Journal – August 2025
    • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
    • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data