*
I have very little experience with trim work over metal framing. Is screwing the mill work the only way to go? I had to work with metal framing on my last “Base and Case” job. Any tips and/or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
An architect and a handy homeowner team up for an exterior upgrade with energy efficiency, comfort, and durability as part of the plan.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
Fine Home Building
Follow
-
Fine Homebuilding
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial Now -
GBA Prime
Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
*
Look about 45 threads down the page from this one.
*Michael, youre in luck! If you scroll down, you will find Mad Dogs post about the same subject.
*Hi Michael, I finished the trim job about a week ago that I posted my question about. Here's what I ended up doing.Had to wrap several windows with 1x12's, underneath was 8" "C" purlin. Tight fitting cuts and self drilling trim head screws is all that could be used. Pre-drilling was an absolute must.Door and window casing could be nailed to wooden jambs. Const adhesive and trim heads used on the metal.Base moulding I used const adhesive and shot through the interior studded walls and then went back and attached with trim heads where needed. Load bearing walls framed with heavier material head to be pre-drilled and screwed.Took me about 4 days to trim 1150 sq ft building by myself.
*
MICHAEL,
What MAD DOG said is the only way to do it correctly
just keep in mind that all the trim gets glued, nailed, and screwed. Trim head self tapers are available and work well "PRE DRILL" "GLUE"
BOB ZITA KBZ ENTERPRISES VT.
*
I have very little experience with trim work over metal framing. Is screwing the mill work the only way to go? I had to work with metal framing on my last "Base and Case" job. Any tips and/or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
*
Yup to the previous. Light guage studs will accept a shot nail. Shoot straight. Almost "welds" nail to stud. For insurance, spot glue. For Heavy guage, gotta predrill the wood but not necessary to predrill the metal. Use tapper trimhead screws. Doors and windows are many times inside wrapped with wood framing, not prob using conventional nailing.
If using real nice trim that will be stained, you might want to bore for a wood plug. Trim heads are hard to fill to make disappear in stained wood. But using expensive beautiful trim warrants the extra work. If thick enough, get your plugs from the backside of what you be working with. Best of luck.