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Trimming around windows with nailing fin

lindenboy | Posted in Construction Techniques on January 24, 2007 10:20am

How do you all suggest trimming around windows with a nailing fin?  Some vinyl windows have quite a depth to the nailing fin, which obviously causes the wood trim boards to rock on the high point.  Do the pros really rip the back side of the trim board by a blade to avoid the rocking?

I’m talking mostly about using hardi, cedar or 5/4 trim — nothing fancy.

TIA!

j

“It depends on the situation…”
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Replies

  1. Stilletto | Jan 24, 2007 10:28pm | #1

    Mike Smith has a virtual how to manual here about this.  It's in the Adverse conditions thread.  In the photo gallery. 

     

     

     

    1. renobird | Jan 24, 2007 11:08pm | #2

      I've done this several times by ripping about a blade width off the back for the nailing fin. Seems to work really well. Otherwise If you use the window flashing tape...remove about 1" from an additional strip of it all the way around and adhere it next to the nailing fin. That seems to stop the "rocking" as well.

    2. User avater
      lindenboy | Jan 24, 2007 11:34pm | #3

      i searched the thread for the obvious keywords:  "window" "trim" "nailing fin" and came up with nothing.  do you have any idea when in the thread it might have been posted?  the adverse conditions thread only has 1800 posts to it - haha.

      j"It depends on the situation..."

      1. Stilletto | Jan 25, 2007 01:13am | #6

        I'll look through it and see if I can find it.  

         

  2. User avater
    JDRHI | Jan 25, 2007 12:12am | #4

    I have always ripped the depth of the flange off of the back of the casing.

    That, and prefabbing the casings.....putting them together....prior to install helps keep everything nice and flat all the way round.

    J. D. REYNOLDS
    Home Improvements

     

     


    1. steven4077 | Jan 25, 2007 12:43am | #5

      Either rip or shim  A 1" rip off the top of a 3-tab asphalt shingle works good.

  3. User avater
    davidhawks | Jan 25, 2007 02:09am | #7

    Set a power planer at full depth and make a pass on the back of the casing about 1/4" wider than the nailing flange. 

    Good Luck.        

    Just re-read your post.  Obviously this method won't work for Hardie.



    Edited 1/24/2007 6:26 pm ET by davidhawks

  4. Stilletto | Jan 25, 2007 02:57am | #8

    I just went through the adverse thread and found some info for ya.  He hits on the siding details from post 1,000 to post 1,250.  That narrows it down a little. 

    He uses Ice and Water shield shims.

     

     

    1. stevent1 | Jan 25, 2007 03:43am | #9

      Here is a link to some 5/4 trim I did last year. I then put frame and panels under the windows. I don't think you have to do a saw kerf.

       

      Chuck S

      79773.67

       

       live, work, build, ...better with wood

    2. User avater
      lindenboy | Jan 25, 2007 08:29pm | #11

      found it.  thanks.  i like that idea with the ice & water shield.

      as usual, there is more than one way to accomplish the task, but i've always wondered...

      j"It depends on the situation..."

  5. User avater
    hammer1 | Jan 25, 2007 05:33am | #10

    I plough the back either with a router and guide fence or dado blades on the table saw. There are plenty of other ways to cut the rabbet but the trim won't sit flat if you don't. I've also cut plywood strips to build out 3/4" material to 1".

    Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

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